^Gecko^

No, no midibox NG, just plain STM32. The keys are just playing the wrong notes, that's all, it starts off low on the upper manual and continues on climbing from the bottom of the lower manual. I'm sure the answer is super easy, I just need to shift the keys over or assign them all to the proper midi commands is my guess. The fun one will be assigning the tab stops, as of now they'll just be regular midi notes like everything else. I got the pedals complete last night

WOOO!! I'm back!! It's been a long time coming and I finally have the motivation to continue working on this project again. I got all the tab stops soldered to ribbon cable and all that needs to be done there is the IDC connectors to plug in to the DINs. I flipped the organ on its side and got the pedal connections ready to solder up to the ribbon cable and should have that done in the next couple days. Later I'll work on the percussion board. I'll still need to figure out how to get the pedal wired up, but I don't think it'll be that bad. I'll need to learn how to build a proper program for the cores, since the keys line up with the MIDI notes in a weird way.

OK I think I have a plan, I'll build a voltage divider circuit. The lamp is a GE1866, which specs out at 6.3 volts. I'll feed it 5volts from a PC power supply and see what the full up resistance gives me, then I dunno, hopefully come up with a resistor to ground to give me 0 to 5 volts for the AIN.

OK now I'm BAFFLED as to how I can hook up my expression pedal to the AIN. I got my multimeter out to see what pins are what on the plug, only to find none of them have variable resistance. I take the thing apart, to find something I think is AMAZING. The pedal uses two optical photoresistors (one looks like it's center-tapped) and an incandescent lamp. The moving part of the pedal has a thing that interrupts the light with a blue filter and a gap that decreased in size as you push the pedal down.

I've finally gotten off my lazy bum and started getting some work done on this thing again! I finished soldering all the leads in for the upper and lower manuals. I mounted the rest of the DINs/DOUTs/AINs, and ran out of IDC connectors. I started working on the tab stops, got all the things on a common ground;

Sorry I haven't posted any updates in a while. I got the rest of the hardware I ordered from smashtv a few weeks back and everything is soldered together. I haven't even gone to do any other work on it though because I am working at a new job! I've been hired for a company in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area that installs fire alarm, burglar alarm, access control, and CCTV systems. They already have me working right out with fire alarm stuff, which I'm very much wanting to get in to as a career, etc.

I don't think I've seen Ride7 anywhere... http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=windows_mios32_toolchain_core """ The MIDIbox community have created a modified GNU Compiler Collection, ready for use with the ARM Cortex M3 platform. The toolchain contains all of the tools required to build MIOS32 applications including GCC and NEWLIB. MSYS is still currently required although may be added to a later version of the toolchain. The Toolchain has currently been compiled for Windows (2000+), Mac OS X (Leopard or newer) and Linux x86 (built on Ubuntu 10.10). The download directory for the toolchain is ftp://ftp.lansystems.co.uk/pub/midibox Download the latest “windows†file and unzip into your favorite directory, If you unzip into c:\ the toolchain will create c:\mios32_toolchain and various sub-directories containing the toolchain files. You must add the “bin†directory to your windows path, a temporary way is to type the following in a Windows Command Prompt window: (change c:\mios32_toolchain to wherever you extracted your toolchain) SET PATH= %PATH%;c:\mios32_toolchain\bin If you want to make this change permanent (you probably will) follow this Microsoft KB article http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310519 This article will also help you when adding the MIOS32 specific variables later on. """

--debug[=FLAGS] Print debugging information in addition to normal processing. If the FLAGS are omitted, then the behavior is the same as if -d was specified. FLAGS may be a for all debugging output (same as using -d), b for basic debugging, v for more verbose basic debugging, i for showing implicit rules, j for details on invocation of com- mands, and m for debugging while remaking makefiles.

you put yours in c:\msys\ and not c:\mingw\msys? try 'make -d' to print debug info wait, no don't do that, it prints forever....

I got the 50ft of cable in the mail today :D Now I just need the rest of the midibox hardware!!

Getting it wired up; Hammond must have liked Tinned Copper, because all of the wires in the organ use it. I love it too; makes soldering a lot quicker! I also like heat shrink tubing, and that you can use a heat gun to nail them all in one shot!

Thanks TK. It's not necessary though. I fixed them already. I put the shrink tube sleeves on but didn't shrink them until after I tested whether it actually worked. I wired up the rest of the first DIN and went ahead and shrank it. I ordered 50 feet of ten conductor rainbow ribbon cable from digikey for $21-23 dollars. Fry's is really a bad place to get the stuff, they only have 3ft lengths and plain gray. As you saw in my video, the first DIN is connected with a plain IDE cable. I'm using the rainbow stuff for the rest. I have enough of it to wire the other three DIN's that are installed. I'll deal with the other four DINs later after I get the other core and DOUTs and AIN.

I did a test run, and it's working! :D

I've installed the first core and the first 4 D_IN's into the organ; This is where I'll probably put the second core, the other 4 DIN's, and some DOUT's. These are my fasteners; The power supply and probably location. I have all the power I'll ever need! BTW; I have a CrystalFontz 4x20 serial driven LCD display. Is there support for this? I used it with a previous project based on LCDProc; http://lcdproc.org/

I think I did a pretty good job, except for the part where I put the resistor arrays in the wrong spot and had to try again :P I also bought an Antec 350watt power supply. I'll use the 5vdc from that to power the core and everything.

I got the STM32 and eight DIN's in the mail yesterday. I must have forgot that extra one for some reason. :whistle: Started soldering everything together around midnight. finally finished half an hour ago, and the core is talking to studio32 properly. :D Now I need some ribbon cable and plugs to go with it.

I think I'll stick with the stm32 even though it costs more. I like the consistency and don't want to have to potentially deal with compatibility problems. Plus, I can push MIDI over the USB port, (can't I?) plus "thanks to the MIOS32 Bootloader no JTAG or COM programmer required for common users" On a different note, I was thinking about what I could do to improve the interface of the physical organ itself. Because there's going to be a computer inside of this thing running it, I thought the front control panel could use an upgrade. A couple of LCD's maybe? The 16 drum buttons could be used for practically anything!

Uh oh, I only ordered one core kit. Better get another one before smash has a chance to send out the current order. This is true even with the stm32 core?

I'm getting confused again.... For my project (hammond regent 4172,) I bought seven DIN kits from smashtv to handle each of the inputs from the organ. Am I going MAD or am I setting myself up for failure?

lol, I still have the leslie and it still works. I had to run a bead of polyurethane glue around the 'surround' portion of the large main speaker as it was breaking off.

Thanks :D I did get it mostly together. I discovered that it's a tight fit if it's not lined up just right, like body parts on a car. When I was taking it apart is when I realized the sides swung open. Before that, I never knew how to raise the lower manual. I am also surprised by all the strange voltages the power supply gives. I won't be hooking all the original components back up, I'm going to need the harness for the inputs to the midibox boards. I do want to use the power supply to power the speakers. I need to know if I can feed audio from a computer soundcard/line out directly in to the amp, and where. I just bought the STM32 and 4 DIN board kits this week. Did the -28 also power the lamps? I wonder if that's why there are so many burnt out. I took the drum radio button set out and took the latching bar out so the buttons are all momentary. I'll feed them all to a DIN board, along with the rest of the toggle switches. No idea what I'm going to do with the A/B/C/D things. I could have used a little more cowbell!

Well I finally made it to Oregon to pick up the organ ;) Unfortunately the thing is too tall to fit in the car! If only the car were 6 inches wider... Anyways, I took the organ apart and got it in. I had to take it all the way, completely apart. I discovered that the pedal has two footswitches of its own; you press your toes to the left or right. I have no clue what they do. There is also a thing mounted inside that has two long springs inside. I forget what it's called, but it has something to do with reverb. The wiring harness is a nightmare! In the car: I couldn't make the Leslie unit, the tone generators, the box of circuit cards, the power supply, or the bench fit in to the car; The wiring harness;

What's wrong with just soldering the wires from one board to another?

Sheesh, solenoids aren't cheap! Add to the fact that they're either push or pull only (the ones I've seen tonight) $225 for a lot of 50 http://cgi.ebay.com/Ledex-Tubular-Solenoid-195207-231-Case-50-NEW-/250676699903?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5d7ee2ff Yeah, I think I'll just stick with LEDs

Yeah, getting the audio sounding good again is my first priority. If I can't get it working properly, then I won't bother with the old electronics and probably just box them up somewhere. I would love to automate the stop-tabs. I know it won't be easy though from having taken one out. I don't remember seeing how I would be able to install solenoids in there. I saw a site that made/sold tiny solenoids, but I can't remember where or who they are now. I don't know how much force is needed to push/pull the tabs, but when I get home I should be able to find or rent a tool to measure that (and I'll take one out and take pics and video of it for everyone)