Scratch wheel

[ademir]

Whassup guys,

  check this out: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,8698.msg104828.html#msg104828

  i want to get this wheel to that set. what you think?

  i've already posted something in this line of thought, but i've never 'showed' anything. hope you like it.

  - a

[Goblinz]

I already have that thread open, ready to read. Is it really necessary for two threads to point to the same post?

[/grumpy old man]

[ademir]

heh. i knew it. :P

i just thought there's people on this thread that aren't following the other. it wasn't my intention to double posting.

[/respectful padawan]

[Goblinz]

Personally I sit in, 24/7 waiting for new posts to be made!

[rasteri]

1) what pic do i need (want to be sure)

2) I am in the UK, should i buy from mike's or smashtv?

3) is there anything else i should/need order?

1) PIC18F4620

2) No idea.

3) Don't think so.

[Turnthetables]

Rasteri, What is the recommened resolution of the encoder wheel? and by 360 steps you have half opaque correct? I am asking because I may get my encoder laser engraved from ABS plastic, but I need to know whats going on ;). I've seen you throw up two disk files one that was 360 and one that was 2048. I was thinking maybe 512 steps.... and what software are you using to make your wheels?

[rasteri]

I'm just drawing them in Inkscape. There are probably a million more elegant ways to make one, but the method I've been using is -

1) Draw a line the diameter of your encoder wheel.

2) SELECT ALL, then copy and paste in place.

3) Rotate the copy 90 degrees (forming a cross).

Repeat steps 2-3 over and over again, halving the rotation angle each time (so 45deg next, then 22.5, then 11.25, etc) until you have no space left between the lines to paste.

Remember - it's a quadrature encoder, so each line actually adds 4 steps per revolution. If you have 360 lines, that's 1440 steps. I really wouldn't go any less than 1048 steps per revolution TBH - that's about the minimum I could get away with without it starting to feel weird.

I really gotta start putting all this on a website somewhere.

[matt_kronik]

So, I tore apart an old ball mouse and found that the infared sensors have 3 leads instead of 2.  I'm fairly electronics savvy, but I have no idea if I can still incorporate them into rastari's circuit.  Are these still infared detecting diodes or are these infared detecting transistors (do they even still make those)?

[rasteri]

Mine's got 3 leads. Remember, each diode should have two leads, and there's two diodes in the package - but to make things easier the anodes are wired together. Here's a pic for ya (pinout may vary) :

package.PNG

package.PNG

[dantheman]

Hello, sorry i haven't posted in a while... been a busy beaver!

Well i have some news, the previous setup i was thinking about has changed.

I have bought a behringer BCD3000 to use as my central mixer as

it has alot more functionality compared to the m audio mixer.

I picked up the BCD3000 for 109 delivered and it has lots more midi buttons and

knobs for to assign to whatever i like. Plus it has a low latency soundcard built in which enables me to headphone monitor. i think the m audio is around 70 quid(would need another 80 for sc).

I will also be adding a Korg nanopad as to have better control over things like looping

and hot cueing. The x-y touchpad on this should come in handy for altering effects in

ableton live etc. Its only 40 - 50 quid.

The only thing lacking in my whole setup is the wheels on the BCD3000, they are not the best at low speeds, seem to be pretty low res. NOt complaining as this price however.

So i will be building the scratch wheel (or 2) to accompany it all and should make for a pretty complete setup. im either going to have one scratch wheel and combine it with monitor cues so i can use it for both decks(if that makes any sense :s) or i will be building 2 scratch wheels (one for each deck) Also thinking of mounting it on a shelf. I think it will be hard to come across a hard case that will fit everything nicely.

anyways i thought you might be interested in a little update  ;)

Dan

[matt_kronik]

So I got my MIDIbox core all soldered, except for the MIDI ports.  I didn't know they weren't included with the kit. :P

I have a few questions about the touch sensor aspect.  How does it sense that my finger is touching it?  Does my finger need to touch the metal itself, or can it just almost touch it?

I ask is because I want to use clear plexiglass for the top of my wheel and use a Colt 45 Malt Liquor can behind the plexiglass for the metal part of the touch sensor.  I think that'd look cool.

[matt_kronik]

Aaaaand...two more things:

Has anyone utilized stryd_one's slimmed-down code?

If I go back in the topic, should I just use the last code rasteri posted?

I've nearly got everything done with construction.  All I've gotta do is drop the electronics into the box and drop in a program.

Grip it and rip it!

[matt_kronik]

Once again I'm at the mercy of this forum.  I think I'm beginning to whine!

I have no idea how to upload "main.c" to my Core using MIOS Studio.  I know MIOS Studio only wants to upload .hex files.  I assume that means hexadecimal code, and that I need to convert the C code to hexadecimal.  I thought Notepad++ would do this, but it doesn't.  Some help please!

[stryd_one]

You gotta compile the code into an "executable" for the PIC, ie a hex file.

Here's the tools you'll need: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/windows_toolchain_quickstart

The main.c should overwrite the main.c in the sdcc skeleton you will find in the mios_base package at ucapps.

Then type 'make' at the command line, from the directory where the main.c is, to get your hex file :)

You might like to search around for more info if it doesn't work right off the bat, but it should.

There's a way to setup notepad++ so that you can build it right in there by hitting F6, which gives you other nice features too.

Lots of goodies all hidden in plain sight around the wiki and ucapps on this one...

[matt_kronik]

Thanks for the quick reply stryd_one.

You gotta compile the code into an "executable" for the PIC, ie a hex file.

Here's the tools you'll need: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/windows_toolchain_quickstart

The main.c should overwrite the main.c in the sdcc skeleton you will find in the mios_base package at ucapps.

Then type 'make' at the command line, from the directory where the main.c is, to get your hex file :)

Yep. I almost got that far.  When I do this, the command line comes back with "nothing to be done for main.c"

Is this because of f---ing Windows Vista?

You might like to search around for more info if it doesn't work right off the bat, but it should.

There's a way to setup notepad++ so that you can build it right in there by hitting F6, which gives you other nice features too.

Lots of goodies all hidden in plain sight around the wiki and ucapps on this one...

I'll keep trying, but I seem to be running in circles.  :-[

[stryd_one]

Yep. I almost got that far.  When I do this, the command line comes back with "nothing to be done for main.c"

Is this because of f---ing Windows Vista?

Possibly.... Possibly not... I can't tell, because you broke GROT #5 ;)

It probably means you're in the wrong directory...

[rasteri]

If you're still having problems I can post a hex file for you.

[matt_kronik]

Yes, please!  That would be really cool of you, rasteri.  Down the line, I'll figure out how to do it myself, but until then, I'm a total basket case.

I'm having other problems with the core as it is, so that would be one less thing for me to worry about.  I'm gonna post these issues in a troubleshooting thread, so I'm not gunking up this one with my problems.

Thanks again, guys.

[stryd_one]

Perhaps you missed my last post, I'll be more direct: Paste logs, and we'll get it fixed.

Precompiled hex is always convenient though ;)

[matt_kronik]

Sure thing, stryd_one.  I'll do that in the troubleshoot forum.  No need to gunk this one up  :)

[Turnthetables]

Alrighty,

I have my optical sensor and I'm looking at the Diagram:

http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=11167.0;attach=3959;image

so the touch sensor goes to j8 the third pin which is SI?

and what about the LED's? and Led picker-uper? I wired my MB for J5A and J5B Where do I plug them into?

Thanks,

t3

[matt_kronik]

So, I got my enclosure done!  Looks real cool, but I still can't bring my core to life.

[Mudo]

...

Hi People,

I'm doing some reverse hacking to Tascam TT-m1.

Anybody is interested in get me some help? I will share all my successes.

Thanks

...

[stryd_one]

Just pop into the chatroom sometime :)

It's a good spot for long chats and experiments...

[9t9r]

1) PIC18F4620

2) No idea.

3) Don't think so.

..not a great help...