clem! Posted February 7, 2009 Report Posted February 7, 2009 (edited) Hi all, after a few years in the corner of my room I want to rebirth my really very old Böhm (maybe Fatar?) 61-key keyboard add a new better looking vintage case (with wood) and offer it some masterkeyboard functionality. OK here is the story: In the 70th my elder brother had build up an e-piano (from the Elektor-schematics) into a Böhm organcase (really ugly!!). This e-piano never worked completly and sounded horrible. In the 80s I needed a midi-keyboard but had no money and so I took this case with the keyboard and added Doepfer LMK2. And there was a really nice to play waterfall-like-dynamic keyboard that works fine - but had no additional controls and since I had another keyboard I didn´t need it any more. What I want to do: At first I want some basic controls: modulation wheel/pedal pitch-wheel volume-fader/pedal sustain-pedal/connector buttons for prg up and down a display that shows the program-number at second: first let´s look if it works Yesterday I´ve ordered a core-module-kit from Mike and hope that this is enough for the first steps. ;-) maybe I can add some parts of a broken ADD-two perhaps the display the LED and the incrementor. Let´s see clem! Edited January 18, 2010 by clem! Quote
clem! Posted February 16, 2009 Author Report Posted February 16, 2009 Hi all,On saturday I´ve got the core-kit-V3 and soldered it yesterday. Looks fine. Now I have to test it.But there comes the first Question:Is it possible to use the connectors J8 and J6 (RD0 and RC1 from the PIC) to connect a testbutton as DIN?Greetingsclem! Quote
stryd_one Posted February 16, 2009 Report Posted February 16, 2009 What are you trying to test? the core, or the switch?Either way: J5 Quote
clem! Posted February 16, 2009 Author Report Posted February 16, 2009 hi stryd_one,as told above I want to get some master-keyboard-control-possibilitys. Out of this reason I want to save J5 for the analog pots. I can´t find an instruction of how to connect digital switches and buttons to the core V3. But I wanted to connect an incrementor and 2 or more buttons to make prg and channel changes and maybe s.t. more.Meanwhile I´ve tested the core - the soldering doesn´t look perfect but it seems to work :-). And the raw-case of the keyboard is ready. Perhaps I will make some pics of the keyboard and the controls at the weekend. Quote
stryd_one Posted February 17, 2009 Report Posted February 17, 2009 Sorry, you said it was for testing.. If you want to connect the switches directly to the core but not using J5, you're up for some coding... Are you familiar with C or ASM? Quote
clem! Posted February 17, 2009 Author Report Posted February 17, 2009 I can´t say that I´m familiar with it, but I had some contact to it very long ago (68000) - maybe there is somewhere a book. So I can connect the buttons directly to the RCs and RDs? Quote
stryd_one Posted February 17, 2009 Report Posted February 17, 2009 Yep, you can do that. You'll need to disable SRIO and AIN mux to use those particular pins, and a timer to poll them. Quote
clem! Posted February 20, 2009 Author Report Posted February 20, 2009 (edited) In the meantime I´ve put the wooden parts of the case together. Mios and midimon is up and running on the box and after some connectivity-problems the display from the add-two is working too. I´ve destroyed the contacts a little bit at unsoldering from the Dynacord which is real "german-worth-work" from the 80th. Edited January 18, 2010 by clem! Quote
clem! Posted February 26, 2009 Author Report Posted February 26, 2009 hi all,I´ve build a little circuit with two ICs so that I can connect up to 16 switches (perhaps an old phone must die for the switches). The incrementor is still working too. I have changed the midibox64.hex to a self compiled one with unmuxed AIN and put a first pot to AIN.At the first glance it seems to work fine ... but than I turned the pot low - and if the value runs under 16 the display dies and if I turn the pot back to the right I only see a black beam like at the startup. Midi is working correctly. Tried also the oiginal hex and reloaded Mios but that didn´t help. :-(clem! Quote
stryd_one Posted February 27, 2009 Report Posted February 27, 2009 Sounds like you have your pot wired wrong, so that the pot causes a short when the wiper is all the way to one side. Probably you have something likeA----------B | C (wiper)It should be:A is 5V, B is 0V, and C to the AIN.I think you may have doneA is 5V, C is 0V, and B to the AIN.In that case, with the pot all the way down (wiper C next to point A) there is no resistance between 5V and 0V == you have a short == dead core. Quote
philetaylor Posted February 27, 2009 Report Posted February 27, 2009 Sounds like you have your pot wired wrong, so that the pot causes a short when the wiper is all the way to one side. Yes I did that the first time I connected my AIN module, often accompanied by slight burning smell from pot :) Quote
/tilted/ Posted February 27, 2009 Report Posted February 27, 2009 Yes I did that the first time I connected my AIN module, often accompanied by slight burning smell from pot :)That's enough about burning pot. We don't wanna give the new guy the wrong impression!! Quote
clem! Posted February 27, 2009 Author Report Posted February 27, 2009 mmh - I smell it, too.but it wasn´t the problem. I´ve checked every soldering and found a missing wire at the lcd, as I told there were still midi-out signals without display showing anything, when I turned pot left.This evening shot a telephone with a display at ibay for 1 EUR, hope this will work better and I can use the switches and perhaps a part of the housing. will fetch it tomorrow.Yes the smell gets stronger - it´s the Lötkolben don´t know in english. (soldering-iron?) Quote
clem! Posted March 8, 2009 Author Report Posted March 8, 2009 (edited) Here are some pictures to document the process. Here is one of the again working LCD. Here another one of the place where the dead wingman wheel will take place. ;) Here another of the wingmanwheel. I think red buttons and knobs will do it. Edited January 18, 2010 by clem! Quote
clem! Posted March 14, 2009 Author Report Posted March 14, 2009 (edited) first pic of the mounted wheels and the whole case without bottom and top Edited January 18, 2010 by clem! Quote
clem! Posted April 29, 2009 Author Report Posted April 29, 2009 hi all,meanwhile I´ve made a bottom for my housing out of steel 0,75 mm (pictures will follow) and can begin to place the electronics inside. Perhaps I will change the wingman-wheels to more professional ones from fatar. For the top I will choose a modular concept with min. 5 panel elements first one will be a main control panel for the midibox with LCD, some switches and 1 or 2 encoders, which will be placed in the middle, and second one will be a controller-knobs-panel with 4 pots and 4 switches, (maybe later expanded with another LCD and more pots and switches, the rest will be reserved for later adds ;)When I thougt about controllers I got the idea that I would like to build an aftertouch-sensor. In an old manual for the lmk3 from doepfer I found that in the early days they´ve done it with piezos.Is it possible to connect a piezo to the ain and regulate it with a L7805 to 5V?http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets/270/9138_DS.pdfWho has done s.t. similar?Best regardsclem! Quote
stryd_one Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 Googling and searching this forum for 'edrum' will get you lots of info about peizos and AINs :) Quote
clem! Posted May 4, 2009 Author Report Posted May 4, 2009 Little search brought this:The Aftertouch problem is solved at http://www.doepfer.de/service/LMK3V2_Service.pdf at page 11, a schematic can be found at page 16. Sorry the manual is german only but the schematic is universal :)best regards Quote
clem! Posted June 16, 2009 Author Report Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) hi there, at the weekensd I had a little time to push the project forward. Now I have the metal part for the top, but it needs some drilling and milling and some black colour. Before I can do it I need some good looking buttons and knobs and a red inverse display. But I have the idea to connect the keys of the keybed directly to the core. I´ve studied the posts of qbas. But my keybed has no scanmatrix but 2 "Sammelschienen", "Ruhekontakt" and "Arbeitskontakt" and I thought of rearranging them, that they work like a fatar scanmatrix. I will cut it in parts of 8 notes one of these can be seen in the schematic. Will this work? I´m not that firm in electronics can s.o. check this? Best regards clem! Edited December 9, 2009 by clem! Quote
clem! Posted June 18, 2009 Author Report Posted June 18, 2009 Ok - it seems as if I have, free to the german expression "Versuch macht klug" (trial makes wise), to build a scanmatrix-board as shown in schematic.Best regardsclem! Quote
jimhenry Posted June 19, 2009 Report Posted June 19, 2009 Clem,I can see no fault with your schematic but, like you, I am not so good with electronics that I trust my analysis 100%. I would do what you are going to do and verify it by building it. Quote
clem! Posted June 19, 2009 Author Report Posted June 19, 2009 (edited) Thanks for the reply - not so much people interested here in Direct-Music-Application and Handiwork. Ok - I´ve done some soldering work with another slaughterd böhm-manual. This is just a prototyoe - quick and dirty  - shouldn´t win a beauty contest, the inverter is still missing but the contacts work here are some pics: I will test at the weekend. Best Regards Edited December 9, 2009 by clem! Quote
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