bootstrap source code? for a real midibox emulator (PIC + other hardware)

[pilo]

Hi!

I'm looking for the bootstrap loader source code.

I want it to be able tu use .cod file for running it with gpsim pic emulator, in order to make a real hardware emulator for midibox.

I can work with hex file only (and compile bootstrap mios and apps hex file into one big hex file), but I will not have the symbol stuff in the emu... which is not very easy to do.

Thanks

Pilo

[Jidis]

I'm wishing lately that there was a full blown version of Serge's app, or something like it, where you could specify your exact i/o amounts of everything, see them on screen and use them via MIDI, as well as load your compiled MB apps (hey, I can dream can't I :) )  Might even be a good thing for people who didn't plan to build a box and just wanted some remote functions via laptop or second computer.

I think I've spent almost as much time soldering and piecing together a test circuit with lights and buttons as I will on the final box. It's sad doing all that stuff and knowing you'll just have to tear it all to pieces if it works. :'(

-- Didn't mean to hijack your thread Pilo. I'm guessing you're wanting something that actually requires all the hardware, just not the PIC.

[TK.]

Hi Pilo,

the source code of the BSL is part of the mios_v1_8_src package

However, you only need to add two NOPs at 0x0000, and the program should start without the bootstrap loader

Jidis: maybe such a generic sysex tool could be part of MIOS Studio (sooner or later)

Best Regards, Thorsten.

[pilo]

Ok thanks ;)

I try to merge both bootstrap and mios hex file, without luck  >:(

pic16f firmware works (with LCD).

However, you only need to add two NOPs at 0x0000, and the program should start without the bootstrap loader

You mean a nop at 0x0000 and (replace the goto 0x0...) and another one at 0x0004 ? (replace the sam kind of goto) as there's already a nop at 0x0002.

I think I've spent almost as much time soldering and piecing together a test circuit with lights and buttons as I will on the final box. It's sad doing all that stuff and knowing you'll just have to tear it all to pieces if it works.

I think you mean if it doesn't work? The aim of an emulator is just for "fun" and debugging apps :)

[TK.]

Just have a look into mios_reset.inc, what do you see? Two goto instructions at the same address (the BSL replaces the first one by a goto to itself)

It doesn't matter if you replace the first goto (two 16-bit words) by two NOPs, or by another goto...

Without loosing too much words: the BSL is not required to boot MIOS

Best Regards, Thorsten.

[Jidis]

I think you mean if it doesn't work?

Sorry pilo, I just noticed this reply.

No I do mean if it *does* :'(  I felt like I sat around forever tracing connections and building some jumble of fragile wires across three different breadboards just to get about 25% of the parts I'll need for my box running and to try out some app adjustments. The pushbuttons I've got on there have to be hit with a small screwdriver to avoid knocking any connections loose and there aren't even enough buttons >:(  I'll most likely etch my own boards for the controls I use and they'll have to be in the actual positions that I go with. I'm almost wishing I had built a few cheap multi button/light/pot boards with ribbons soldered to them just to keep around for testing (I'm running the Greg board with all my IC's on a single PCB).

-George     

[pilo]

ok ;)

now I read again your first message and understand what you meant :) I also make a big siwtch/led pcb before, but I don't plan to use it anymore... and I switch to breadbpard for that (easier to place components, and a lot of wire cna be solder on those.

For the emulator stuff  : I can't compile mios with gpasm (macro problems) and so it's very hard to see why it doesn't works... only with the hex file, I get no message on the screen, but it works for old pic16f877 apps, so I guess it's possible to run mios.

[Jidis]

Yeah, I like the breadboards too and I keep ordering more. It always seems all the cool parts have to hog up that middle section where the sides are split, otherwise pins end up bridged together, then of course you're wasting all those nice holes on either side of the strip. >:(

I'm thinking of doing an etched board with a crapload of cheap tact switches and cheap LED's (along with their 220 ohm resistors), with a pin header or some solid copper leads hanging off of it that could be inserted in the breadboard. Lots of work for temporary test junk, but if someone had shown up at my door with one a few nights ago, I probably would have traded him my car or something.  ;)

-George