rebuilt core with new components, still jitter

[djiceman]

Hi

I just completed the new core. Only part that is used second is the pic.

Doing the resistor test, i get tons of jitter. Tried both modified software and even the original midibox 2.4 software. Same results.

Is the pic damaged?

[henrygr]

Doing the resistor test, i get tons of jitter.

What are the voltages? Not sue what the above means!

[djiceman]

i did the resistor test that you mentioned to me 2 days ago. I got the same problem.

Now i removed the resistors and pluged in my 8pot ainx module.

I get jitter, but not like before, now i get jitter that is slower and all different types like bank memory... and only from the pot i turned, mainly number 5.

Jitter only shows in midi-ox.

In mios studio, i dont get jitter, i only get values when i turn the pot, its pretty sensetive, I have to turn it about a milimeter to get one value, if i turn it abit more i get like 2-4 values.

I checked the voltages, it reads 4v on my meter. Im using new parts, old pic and the same power supply.

I just tried it in traktor, pot 5 seems to be turning the controls in traktor. I guess pot five it messed up. Time to just earth it out.

[djiceman]

what i mean is, if i turn pot five, the needed control turns.

But if I turn anyother pot, then that control + the control that is linked to pot 5 also turns.

[henrygr]

OK. There are two common components left. The PIC and the power supply.

Power Supply:

Can you get hold of a nine volt battery and power the unit that way, then do the voltage tests (BTW what you call 'resistor tests', should in fact be 'resistance tests')

PIC:

What PIC is it?

Mark.

[djiceman]

i earthed pot5, plug in....still jitter in midi-ox...but worked fine in traktor...

so i soldered pot 5 back, changed the ainx IC....im back to square one, where it works fine with mios studio and traktor..but in midi-ox and fruity loops i get jitter.

Resistor tests> wher you said to solder a 7.5k (i used 10k) resistor to earth and to the ain pin then touch the ain pin with a 100k from power(5v) and check if i get a value in midi-ox...but i just get alot of jitter.

I dont have any 9v with me at the moment.Though I did try a big variable power supply(0-20v dc)(0-3a) and i set it to 12v. Its a regulated dc power supply from metronix(about 20 years old, its dads)

Still get jitter.

Its 8:30pm and dont think any shops are open to get a decent duracel battery. Will have to try tomorrow. Though, im happy it works with traktor. But i want a 100% proper functioning midibox.

I want to expand later one when funds are available to buy pots and buttons, they are quite expensive.

[djiceman]

im using a 18f452 pic. Its a pretty annoying thing trying to plug the pic in the socket, pins bend alot.

Can I use a 18LF452 pic?

Btw, i used the mhbp burner to flash the bootloader onto the pic. The measured voltages where about 1 volt below the required. But the flashing worked fine.

Seems like my meter reads voltages one volt lower or it could just be, my power...

But to flash, i use the big variable power supply (20v) as my ac adapter only went up to 12v max.

[henrygr]

Not an expert on LF PIC, but I don't think it will cut thr turkey. Search the forum regarding that, as I have read elsewhere before that that is the case. When you get a 9v. battery tomorrow, do a voltage check, and at least that will tell you if the multimeter is on the blink. You need to get the voltage right, or, from experience, what is programmed on the PIC will not work right. I wouldn't put the PIC back in till that is the case, so the next time you put the PIC in will be the last time. No more wear and tear on the pins!

In the past, I have incurred problems with power supply, that had my PIC giving me anything but crap. When that was the case, I reloaded the bootstrap via midi cable (MIOSStudio, Manual upload, not Smart mode), then MIOS (again, Manual), then my app (via MidiOx- I send the sysex file). Important to point out that you should upload the first two within two seconds of powering up.

I know you told me before, but what is your midi interface to PC?

And by the way, did you check the caps for leakage?

That's all that I can think of for the moment. Will post more if it comes to mind.

Oh yeah, it's always a good idea to run your pots consecutivly ie don't load a pot on pin two if pin one isn't loaded, and always leave pin one at the end of the Vs/Vd chain. See here http://www.midibox.org/users/tor_arne/midibox64_walkthrough/potsbuttons.html.

I know you are currently running the full MBox64 in ASM. If you want, I will email you a sysex file that will cut down the core to an UnMuxed state (ie connect you pots directly to the core) for troubleshooting, and  any other sysex stuff you might need to get to the bottom of this. It will save you seting up the c-code comiler on your PC, which at this stage might side track you, although I do recommend it for the future, for writing your own apps. In fact, I think it may be a good idea to strip away the AINX from the set up at present, just to pinpoint the problems, and then expand from the smallest set up possible- the solitary core. My email can be found in my profile.

See what you think.

Mark. 

[stryd_one]

LF's are all good I think  :)