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punkdISCO

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London
  • Interests
    Music

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MIDIbox Newbie

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  1. jjonas!! That is fantastic! I went through the guide last night and yep, its all pretty simple (now I understand it). I took my mb6582 knowledge onto the sammichFM and got that working also. Big thanks - this is really appreciated.. Paul
  2. Hi all Im a long term mb6582 user and, recently got a SammichFB (and Seq v4). Despite this, I have never worked out the wavetables. Is there a very simple step-by-step guide anywhere for thicko's like me? On the sammichFM for example, I am yet to even make one controllable wavetable change.. BIG thanks for any pointers. Paul
  3. Hi - Interested. Please see PM.. thanks, Paul
  4. Just noticed this util.. Looks very interesting. Currently cant get it to makes changes - the Send Request button resets values to some preset state and the CC# always jumps back to 21: OP2 Multplier. Am I doing something stupid? I have sound and can change patches using the tool so I have connectivity.. thanks, Paul
  5. Hi - sent PM regarding the sammichFM. thanks, Paul
  6. Sexy as feck!! Nice one..
  7. Hi Shuriken - yeah, I wont be doing it my way again!! Its the first time I have removed components so it was a learning curve for me. Thanks again for all the pointers and help. Paul
  8. Hi – I have notice that some of your build have very sexy perspex windows over the LCD, making them look very pro.. Where do people get these from? Worst case, Im going to just get some perspex and clue to the underside – it wont look as good but better than nothing.. Thanks, Paul
  9. HI all - I repaired the tracking at weekend. It was pretty easy. I also installed all the new knobs so now have a fully working mb6582! It never ceases to amaze me how good this thing sounds. I have lots of high end synths (PEK / SunSyn / JP4 / Korg 800dv / etc etc) yet everything I turn on the MB, it just runs a mockery over my other stuff... Definitely my desert island synth... Paul
  10. Thanks for the replies. What I still don’t understand is: Some of the encoders only appear to have 2 pins doing anything (looking at the tracks on the underside). Some encoders use all 3 pins All the encoders seem to have a earthing track (looking on the topside) but, why do ALL the pins need to be earthed? Would it have been okay to just earth the encoder once, maybe via the body? Im asking this question as it helps me understand why I need to fix the 3 or so earthing track breaks Ive made. My other approach is to just try it and see.. Im not very good at this stuff so appologies if these are dumb questions.. Thanks, Paul
  11. Hey Peter Thanks for those instructions. Wish I had known the correct process before I removed the encoders L Hey ho, we live and learn.. Ta, Paul
  12. Hi all I decided to replace all my encoders as 5 or so were playing up (should have just replaced the duff ones!). So, in 2 or 3 places I seem to have lifted the red tracking on the topside of the PCB: Silly question but: does this matter? Looking on the underside, I can see the tracking is all fine and this seems to be the tracking that goes off to ribbon connecters etc. What is the red tracking on the topside of the PCB? Do I need to repair it? thanks for any replies. Paul UPDATE: the red topside tracking looks like it is Ground which is run to each of the 3 encoder pins. So I guess the question is: will the encoders till work if one of the pin ground is missing but the others are intack?
  13. punkdISCO

    Misc

  14. Hey Peter - thanks for that link. I had not seen it before so good pointer.. Im going to stick with the dented encoders as don't want to run the risk of them failing again. thanks again, Paul
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