Altitude

I've built a bit of experience with this and that euro module in the last year or so and been working on my own Aout in parallel and found it's pretty unsuitable in it's present state.  Namely: The bipolar circuit is referenced to the power rails and in a full euro cab, that is a VERY bad idea, massive noise ingress is the result making it useavle.  Removing that part of the circuit brings it back to very decent levels but 0-10V isnt terribly useful in euro.  Also, scaling the DAC outputs with a trimmer is a bit crude, per volt adjustments would be MUCH better (like in Ornament_crime or Yarns). My idea is to keep the MAX525s since they are available and decent parts and serial addressed but switch the analog output stage to that of Yarns or O_C (-3 to 7V or -3 to 6V outputs respectively) and port over the code for the calibration of those devices (whichever is easier).  The hardware side is covered but I really need someone who can code to deal with that end of it.  O_C is teensy 3.2 base but Yarns is STMF405 which should be very close to the current core code base.. I'll provide hardware to work with for any takers

Moog case is a no go if you want stuff on the back, it has fins inside that cause problems. Ill post some pics shortly

fine looking device.  Out of curiosity, how did you do the laser cut button caps?

i've done it both ways and I dont see any difference one way or another.  If I had to do it again, I'd use the 7809, cheaper and smaller. One thing I'd recommend (unrelated to this question):  DONT use the E series recoms, they are super cheap for a reason and not well suited for audio applications,  Output noise is unacceptably high 

It would be cool if they could shrink it down to SID size, those are machine stuffed anyway so no reason not to go to a TAG programming header, 0402 passive, small as possible everything else (underneath?)

payment requests sent. Here is the BOM https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1w-VEWmPBQucrhK-vZdvH8pU_xwDvS5GS1VtrLofj800/edit?usp=sharing

I just stuck a darkly tinted window, it obscures the depth..  There is no way to go in front of the PCB, it will interfere with the tacts

i'll PM ppl for the ones I have, $5 a pop.   I'll post an OSHpark project later..

I think that there is something else pulling it down, I run mine on USB power all the time when I'm flashing it, check resistance between +5 and gnd and +3.3 and ground

There may be current limiting stuff on the discovery board too

no, just havent had time to deal with this..

I like the feedback as well but its REALLY cumbersome to use the MB6582 with a 8 channel snake out the back.  I used a single supply with TL074 running off the 9V     

Correct.  There are 2 ways to wire this in, pre the jack which will just mirror what's coming out of the channel or post jack by puling the 10ks in the passive mixer so the SID pair is removed from the mix when you plug something in

Mouser stocks Vishay OLEDS which are rebadged raystars..

So after years one planning to do this, I finally got around to it.  Here are the results: Simple TL074 based mixer with stereo pots for each channel that fits to the existing holes.  I've got a handful of boards if anyone would like one and then I'll post a OSHpark link so anyone can get them any time. Boards:   https://oshpark.com/projects/iEI4Yrhq   BOM https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1w-VEWmPBQucrhK-vZdvH8pU_xwDvS5GS1VtrLofj800/edit?usp=sharing