NorthernLightX
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Posts posted by NorthernLightX
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Hi,
I have a few spare SIDs for sale. They are one MOS 6581 with batch number 3584, and one MOS 6581R3 with batch number 4585. These chips are salvaged from old C64 boxes and untested. That doesn't mean they're broken, in fact I believe they work perfectly, but I've just not tested them lately.
Price is a 10 euro ex. shipping.
Reason I'm selling these is I have plenty of SIDs to toy with (12x 8580 and 1 6581R4) so these two can be enjoyed by others.
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Hi guys,
I have a few spare PICs for sale. I ordered these in bulk and now most of them are not used in the new projects, so I want to sell or trade them.
I have:
PIC18F4520-I/P (6 pieces)
PIC18F452-I/P (12 pieces)
I favor a trade for other electronic parts, anything goes. PM me with your offer.
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Is a of b logaritmisch?
A is lineair in ieder geval, dus b is log denk ik.
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Hey Jeff, ook nog steeds aan het midiboxen zie ik? Ik zag ook dat je geinteresseerd was in Wilba's PCB, misschien kunnen we de verzending samen doen zodat we daar beiden op besparen?
Ben je nu met een projectje bezig of is het vooral muziek/herrie maken? ;D
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I'm not an expert either, but I thought overdrive was just amplifying the signal until it clips, and distortion uses diodes for creating clipping. I think the way you wired it up is standard overdrive, and because it is so simple - requires only a potmeter - it is brilliant in its way. Distortion units often work by loading an op-amp and clipping with diodes, I think the EXT-IN of the SID uses an op-amp to mix the signals together, so that's how your distortion is generated. It would be great if one could also add diodes for the distortion, but on the other hand that is probably a lot of designing work for something very few people would want. In any case that could be done on a separate board (audio-out -> clipping -> audio in) so it won't interfere with your current design. If on the other hand you would like to examine the diode clipping thing, that could probably be done by just adding 2 diodes per SID near the audio-out, either with a connection to ground (so called "hard" clipping) or a connection to the SID audio-in ("soft" clipping).
Everything you ever wanted to know about distortion can probably be found here: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/richardo/distortion/
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I'm routing all four AOUT controls to the 25-pin DSUB at the back, should I ever have (need) four external filters/VCAs.
I wondered what that large COMport was for... ;D
It all looks mighty cool. Lately I've been busy again with a distortion effect, now in pedel-form, for a friend of mine who plays guitar. That distortion could be a nice companion for the SID, but I read you've already incorporated some kind of distortion, or is that "just" overdrive? Is it part of the base PCB or on a separate circuit?
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I have 3 max525 and 2 max6007 lying around. Just pm or email me and we will work something out (trade for pcb e.g.).
about the spare room on the pcb... any chance that an uplink to an aout module will be possible there?
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Voor een knutselprojectje heb ik 1 keramische (of film) condensator nodig van 22nF (dus nummer 223 uit mijn hoofd).
Tevens heb ik een Logaritmische potmeter van 100K nodig.
Als je wat hebt liggen: PM, mail, reageer, whatever, prijs komen we wel uit.
Gr, Alex.
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Wilba, you've refueled my fire, big thanks fot that ;)
Now, i would like to sign up for one base board. Furthermore, a set of thore filtercaps sound nice too (just for my information; when were these caps deemed preferrable above the styrofles ones? because I have already bougt some styro's with my last Reichelt order).
Now, I'd pay all your expenses ofcourse, but that sounds a litte too cheap for such a wonderful effort. I might have some (expensive) parts lying around I'm not using anywhere soon (AOUT board components a.o.), and I'd like to donate them to you if you're interested. If you don't need anything from my stash I'll just throw in some extra cash, your work needs to be funded too, right? ;)
Cheers, Alex.
[edit]
Oh, and before I forget, if it's not too much of a hassle, you could make the power section on the PCB like Smash does with the midi ports on his PCBs: with a mountable DIN socket OR a SIL header. I would use the SIL header.
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[edit2]
I should have read the wiki first, you've built-in a complete regulating circuit - I don't need that, I'd regulate all power on a separate board. So if you could make it like how the Core power section used to be (still is?) with a way to not populate the regulation section and put the power in after the regulation section, that would be great.
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Als het 30 euro is, kan ik dan niet beter met mn OV richting grens gaan, en daar een treinkaartje richting reichelt-kantoor kopen, om daar mn spulletje zelf te gaan halen. Als het niet te ver in duitsland ligt, is dat misschien wat goedkoper...
als je tenminste dingen kan afhalen, en duits spreekt :P
De meeste Duitsers spreken (redelijk) Engels, zeker bij een internationaal gorienteerd bedrijf als Reichelt. Afhalen is mogelijk, het adres staat ophun site.
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ik meld me ook met interesse ;)
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Houd rekening met ongeveer 30 euro aan verzendkosten en belastingen op een order van 150 euro. Ik heb een tijdje terug iets dergelijks georganiseerd hier, en als de componenten bij reichelt niet zo spotgoedkoop waren geweest had het niet rendabel geworden. Let ook goed op de aantallen bij de componenten die op je bevestigings-orderlijst krijgt, bij mij hadden ze bij een onderdeel van een euro ipv 10 stuks 40 stuks gezet (of iets dergelijks, weet het niet meer zeker), dan blijf je narekeken en zoeken waar de fout zit.
Gr, Alex.
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i think the problem is that the 7805 can only pull 1 amp max, so anything under that, there will be a ton of voltage to dissipate as heat and if your pulling 1 amp on the 5 volt rail, then you should be using a TO-3 size regulator. I think Alex's design expects a huge draw from the regulator, and in practice, this does not really occur and as a result, the resistor does not really do much
Not that hot. Thats what i have been using until now and it does not even get half as hot, and thats with 4 sids and cores with high current LEDs
My design anticipates a draw of 1A on each rail. I've had the schamatic checked by several guys who DO know their electronics stuff (and I do not), and they approved of the design. You made your own schematic, are you sure you placed everything right?
I completed my PSU tonight, but I don't know when I'll be able to test it. As soon as I know anything I'll post it.
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Guys, please keep in mind I'm not an electonics guru (far from in fact), but you should at least know how a restistor works. Power, tension, current?
Basically, the resistor will only convert tension into heat if the current becomes high. This is exactly what you want, because else the reg can cope with the higher current. In theory, the 8 ohm resistor will eat 8 volts when the current is 1 ampere, so if your mains output is 10% below average, your 7805 will have to cope with about 7,8 volt. Perfect operating values.
So the design is allright, heatsink the rg properly, it doesn't matter if you build the C64PSU optimized thingy or this circuit, the 7805 will get hot anyway.
But I believe this has alredy been told in this very post.
modnaR: if your voltage drop over re resistor is about 1v, your load would have been about 120 mA on the 5V branch. If you oad it highr the resistor will drop more, so the heat of the reg wil stay the same.
Altitude PMed me with a similar question. Please post all your findings here, I hope it encourages people (or evenyually discourages people if it turns out this thing is not the way to go) to build this PSU.
I have been very busy lately, and have not had any time to work on the midibox or the psu. I hope I'll have any findings for you soon.
Cheers, Alex.
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is it possible to put a load on the psu before attaching it to the midibox core etc to find out the voltages, or would you need to know the current draw of your setup?
As far as I know any load between 100mA and 1A will do. So you could use your Core, a small lamp, a few big resistors, etc.
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built and getting voltages.. only the voltages on the 12V line is about 13V..
That is to be expected if you do not have anything connected behind your reg. The regs need a load to regulate properly.
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OK, I think I have been a bit unclear. I'll try to explain again:
The trafo gets 230VAC from the mains socket. Those are the yellow wires.
The secondary wires are paired, since I know exactly which trafo you have I can tell you which wires do what, but you could have read it from the trafo too: Green and Red are a pair, and Brown and Blue are a pair.
If you solder the Green wire to the first pin, the Blue wire to the third pin, and both Red and Brown to the middle pin, it should work.
The real + and - are only created after the rectifying diodes, With + and - I ment the branches on the PBC to create positive and negative tension. Hope this clears things up a bit.
Cheers, Alex.
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Let's just go back to making our kits and other silly things like this.
:D
Exactly what does this add to the discussion after 4 months?
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i meant the ringkern.. ive got blue brown.. and red green..
The two yellow wires are AC. Feed them 230v and measure what comes out of the other coloured wires. Then connect them as stated before.
Cheers, Alex.
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hey NLX,
i was wondering.. ive got 2x 12VAC wirepairs..
where should i attach the second pair??
Hi Wisefire,
youve got 2x 12v + and 2x 12v -
one of the + wires goes to the ground pin, and one of the - wires too. The other + and - wires go to their respective pins. This you could have guessed from the schematic. (I am happy to answer questions, this was just a hint where to look for answers if I'm taking a long time ;) )
Cheers, Alex.
[edit]
I just checked the schematic, and I must have had an earlier schematic in mind, because the trafo is not pictured in this one. If you still have questions don't hestitate to contact me.
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mirror image.. hmm.. thats less then optimal.. oh btw.. the order from reichelt.. specially the parts for my MBFM.. im missing some parts.. :S
but about that mirror image thing.. is it still gonna cost me 7 euros?
Please send me a mail about this, better to duscuss that in private.
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The latest news is that the guy who was going to etch the board did them all mirror-image... >:(
Also the drilling is sometimes a bit small, too small for the components that have to go through the particular holes.
After some testing this does not seem to be too much of a problem, the holes can be widened with a small drill and a steady hand, and the mirror-imaging only affects the the regs; they are not placed optimally for heatsinking anymore.
So Wisefire, I have a mirror-image board lying around with your name on it.
No tests on the power delivery yet, have been MUCH too busy...
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That's Take Sensei to you ;D
??? Please explain stryd, I don't get it.
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lol, thats from a Steven Segal Movie IIRC
And Seagal sensei is a wise man indeed ;D
Bankstick ICs
in Fleamarket
Posted
Hi,
I still got a few 256k bankstick ICs ( (24LC256-I/P), and since the new projects support 512k ICs which I also have, I'm parting with these. I've got 9 in total. I favor a trade for other electronic parts, anything goes. PM me with your offer.