nebula
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Posts posted by nebula
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Thanks for the input! Tonight I'll check out these points for sure. If memory serves, the transition at 4:00 was really hard to find a way to get the two tracks to seem to be in tune. I decided that instead of trying to create something seamless I would instead go for a "wake up call" as the bright, buzzy ES2 slidy sound takes the foreground and leads off a more upbeat track.
I'm excited too, as recently I've discovered a lot of new sounds, primarily using the MB-6582 and the JP-6, leaving me wanting to explore some more aggressive material, while still using a lot of the groove sensibilities I've developed in the past couple years - i.e. this stuff.
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The file's a 320 kbps MP3. Probably bigger than necessary.
I halved the bitrate, creating a new file file which is approx. half the size. Link: http://www.mediafire.com/?em0nmhjhhlt
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Here's a 48-minute mix of my live tech-house set, sort of...
When I play live, I do more on-the-fly dynamic mixing and processing, mute stuff and play other stuff over top. But these are the songs, most of which are close to ready for release.
Comments welcomed.
MB-6582 and X0XB0X make a couple of cameos, as well as the usual suspects in my studio. Created with Logic 8, with lots of its own soft synths and effects. The only other software instrument is an Arturia Minimoog. Hardware instruments used here include a Roland Jupiter-6, Roland JX-3P, Roland JX-8P, Sequential Six-Trak, Yamaha TX81Z, Korg Electribe ER-1, Yamaha RX21 & RX21L, Soundcraft Spirit Studio mixer, and some cheap outboard effects. No sampled beats are used - I built them all from the ground up.
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Done! :)
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Which MIDI sockets fit into the standard panels?
The baseboard parts kit includes the MIDI sockets you need.
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OK, so I need a 16 pin cable for the LCD and 8 pin cables for connecting the base PCB to the CS PCB, preferrably the 100mil spacing cable Wilba used.
For the 16-pin LCD cable, you can buy new rainbow-coloured ribbon from SmashTV, but you can also reuse computer ribbon cables. Just snip off the ends and tear off a ribbon as wide as you need.
Also don't forget the ribbon cable DIL headers.
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For LEDs and DIP sockets it's hard to beat eBay...
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One additional trick, once it's all soldered and done, run a bead of hot glue along the solder end line. This si used in a lot of commercial products, and helps prevent breaks due to flexing.
I like silicone for this purpose.
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(Updating Wiki due to MIOS 1.9g encoder handling change).
Can somebody tell me: does this encoder have 16 detents per revolution? I've been looking for an encoder with exactly 16 "clicks". Also, the shaft looks fat - is there any way to put a knob on this?
Thanks
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interesting ... you could try shielding your ribbons yourself using aluminum foil, shrink tubing and a bare "drain wire" connected to ground at one end. it might be cheaper and faster.
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is black opaque a non translucent look?
Correct. You can't see through something opaque.
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U.S. prices:
$29.99 for 8x8 :)
$ 9.99 for 1x4 >:(
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... and this makes it ridiculously easy
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Judging from the above chart I'd say 0.75 A.
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Sweet design. There's a lot to like about this. Very nice work. Congratulations!
I will probably buy a kit or two. Would the case be available in different colours?
Is the case made of hard acrylic? For example, if you push your finger in the middle of the underside, does it flex?
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I would worry about enamel flaking off and exposing live copper.
The epoxy Wilba's talking about is often referred to (in North America, anyway) as "potting compound".
For small boards requiring isolation, sometimes large-sized heat-shrinkable tubing works well.
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Here are my thoughts on pots vs encoders. Others may disagree, but here goes:
For controls serving multiple functions (i.e. one minute it's controlling an effect, the next minute it's controlling pitch), encoders are generally a better choice.
In a live setting, The biggest annoyance about encoders is when the control value is at its maximum (or minimum), and you aren't looking so you don't know this, and you keep turning it to to try to achieve more. Encoders also tend to be more precise than pots, and typically require more turns to get to the value you are aiming for.
But pots are less precise than encoders, so in most studio applications encoders are generally nicer.
From the MIDIbox perspective: for pots you'll need an AIN board. For encoders you can use the same DIN board you use for your buttons. And good-quality potentiometers are cheaper and easier to find than good encoders.
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This looks awesome, and I've ordered my Core32 from Smash!
I'm considering building a button/LED matrix as an addition to Wilba's panel. I remember some discussion/speculation that V4 would allow for a bigger matrix. Is that supported now? If not, are there plans to support more buttons/LEDs in a future V4 release?
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The notches are in the picture on Smash's page. They don't all face the same direction!
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If you really need a place for an SD card that badly, I'd put it on the rear panel.
But MB-SEQ is not a digital camera. Extremely complicated sequences are likely to only require a few kilobytes of storage.
Personally, I plan to bury a 2 GB card inside the finished sequencer enclosure and never look at it again.
It should cost me well under 10 bucks. Just to get really sassy, maybe I'll even solder right to the card.
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When this bleeding edge prototypers run was first announced I ordered the parts I didn't already have on-hand from Digikey, including 50 tactile switches.
A couple days ago as I was snapping the switches into my PCB I discovered I was short 1.
Maybe for every 50 or so who build one of these sequencers, somebody gets one for free!
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It could very well be MIDIbox, although I've known a few DJ types to build this type of stuff using Doepfer hardware. It is very sexy though!
BTW I don't think the square B3W switches are available in 3 different sizes.
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What would be the advantage of LC on the new core?
Look For A Pcb Midibox Seq
in Fleamarket
Posted
If you are looking to buy something, generally, post in the flea market.
But in this case, you should read Wilba's thread more closely: Wilba is planning a BIG bulk order, and if you want to participate, you only need to add you name to a Wiki page. Read the thread from the beginning.
The few boards that were sold so far are for those people who are in a big hurry to build one and test, and who don't mind paying big bucks for a FPE/Schaffer panel. There are no more for sale until the big bulk order.