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nebula

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Posts posted by nebula

  1. According to the Newhaven press page, their OLEDs (with proprietary controller) are drop-in replacements for standard LCDs. Anybody tried 'em? The prices are very good. Maybe this would be a good time to start an OLED thread.

    Here are the products: http://www.newhavendisplay.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=119_576

    Here is the press release: http://www.newhavendisplay.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1846

    I'd love to know where other people are getting their OLEDs from, and if they are any better than these.

  2. The old Emagic AMT-8 and Unitor 8 are very capable, stable, low-latency 1U MIDI interfaces with 8 ins and 8 outs. They are discontinued, but they are always available on eBay. You can cascade up to 4 of them with serial cables. I have 2 cascaded and my Mac sees them as a 16x16 interface. I have another that I never tried to cascade, because it runs from a separate computer, but I'm confident it would work fine).

    They can be configured using a graphical tool to patch any input to any output. And they have a front panel button that puts them into a default patch when there is no computer connected.

    They are rock-solid on the Mac - the drivers are installed with the OS. I have never checked whether they are working with 64-bit Windows. They originally sold with Windows drivers (Emagic is the innovative German company that made the cross-platform "Logic" software before they were absorbed by Apple, who killed the Windows version).

    There are two different flavours of the Unitor 8: the "mkII" with USB, and the original, without USB. The pre-USB version can sometimes be found for under 50 bucks, just because they're apparently obsolete, but for guys like us they are great for adding another 8 ports to the newer Unitor or to an AMT-8. (The AMT-8 is a less epensive version with USB, but no SMPTE i/o, which few people care about these days)

    I have been using these things for the last 13 years. I have 3 of them, and one started acting up on me so I replaced it (pre-USB, for $39 with no power supply - found on Craigslist).

    I'm not sure how easy they are to find in Australia. They are plentiful on the used market in Canada/USA. I just searched on ebay.com for "emagic" and found about a dozen listings for these great units.

  3. At work I use clear silicone grease for weatherproofing antenna connections, and that stuff is messy, so I wouldn't recommend it.

    Lithium grease is a little less annoying to work with, but it leaves nasty white residue behind.

    K-Y jelly might be good because it is water-based, but it may leak down the shaft into the pot or encoder, potentially breaking down its internal lubricants. And I think it dries up after a while.

    Vaseline is petroleum jelly, right? You may want to test a little on an inconspicuous bit of surface to make sure it cleans up easily.

  4. Be really careful with this. Grease has a way of spreading from parts to hands to surfaces, potentially leaving permanent stains on lovely panels. Even a tiny dab of grease into a knob will probably mostly ooze out once you put it on the shaft.

  5. ^^ Agreed. Love my MB-6582, just bought a sammichSID kit because my MB-6582 is complete, and I might want to fart around with the software or hardware. My MB-6582 has become part of my studio, so I don't want to have it open or otherwise inoperative when a creative moment comes along! I have a lot of gear, and the MB-6582 is one of the last things I would ever sell - not because I built it, not even because of the licence, but just because it's just a great synth.

  6. You could still have some success asking your friends, relatives, co-workers etc if they have a C64 or C128 gathering dust in the closet. Otherwise, they also still show up sometimes at thrift stores, and sometimes you'll find chips in the "fleamarket" section of this forum.

    Ideally, the newer 8580 and 6582 chips sound better to my ears than the 6581, but that is very much a matter of taste - and what you want to do with your synth. The 6581 is the classic Commodore SID, used in millions of computers. It sounds grittier, while the newer 8580/6582 chips (very similar to each other, if not identical) sound cleaner, with way better filters.

    Keep in mind: that sammichSID description on ebay (which has now sold for $600 btw), a SID is absolutely not a Minimoog or a TR-909/808 on a chip. In fact it doesn't sound much like any of those things. But it has a rude, tweaky sound, capable of producing the best game/chiptune tones, as well as much deeper synthesis options thanks to the fantastic MIDIbox SID software.

    Some pretty good examples can be heard at http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid.html

    I don't want to sound like a salesman, but there will be no more sammichSID kits produced. Wilba is currently selling off the final batch of 50. It is a pretty flawless kit, suitable for all levels of expertise, with an excellent build guide.

  7. Do you have a bigger picture? It's hard to see everything on the one you posted.

    It is pretty nice ... I'd like to see a nice 3/4 view - the offset in height kinda reminds me of the Sequential Multi-Trak/Max line of keyboards. I really like that low-profile design, and I don't think the pic is doing it justice!

  8. As Wilba said, it is possible to cut any transparent material (acrylics or glass) just roughly and glue it to the backside of the aluminum frontpanel.

    I did exactly that using a slightly tinted anti-glare filter for a CRT. It looks great behind the black panel. Not as nice as a window with bevelled edges that sits flush with the panel, but it still looks tidy and professional.

  9. I did not receive any PM or form to fill, but I sent him my info last week anyway, just before the June 12 deadline. Today is 2 days after the deadline - has anybody received a PM or heard anything from Schrittmacher since the post on June 2?

    I don't want to rush anything, I'll get my case when I get it, and I appreciate him running the bulk ... I just don't want to be left out!

  10. This sounds like a cool application.

    Do you already know which notes you want it to change? In another post you mention 4 different scales. So if this box is set to convert your playing to C Major, and you play a C#, what note will come out of it? C? D?

    I think a simple approach would be to create a 12-line lookup table for each type of scale. Use math to compare the incoming note based on the specified key, then fix it based on the table.

    The table itself is the most important part. If I understand correctly, here are two different examples of how you might approach a C-Major scale. The number in (brackets) would represent the actual table entry for that scale type. "r" = "root note", which is the remainder of ((the incoming note number + the key) / 12).

    
    Note IN  Note OUT-familiar intervals Note OUT-shift-down correction
    
    =======  =========================== ==============================
    
    C  (r)   C (0)                       C (0)
    
    C# (r+1) C (-1)                      C (-1)
    
    D  (r+2) D (0)                       D (0)
    
    D# (r+3) E (+1)                      D (-1)
    
    E  (r+4) E (0)                       E (0)
    
    F  (r+5) F (0)                       F (0)
    
    F# (r+6) G (+1)                      F (-1)
    
    G  (r+7) G (0)                       G (0)
    
    G# (r+8) G (-1)                      G (-1)
    
    A  (r+9) A (0)                       A (0)
    
    A# (r+10)A (-1)                      A (-1)
    
    B  (r+11)B (0)                       B (0)
    
    

    Using this method you could probably hard-code in dozens of different correction tables, representing major, minor, and any of various "modes". When the incoming note comes in, the number in brackets is added to the note number, and it is immediately sent to MIDI OUT!

  11. Hi mbira, there is no single schematic because the hardware platform suggests building individual modules. You'll require a Core module, a DIN for the buttons (DINX1 actually, easiest to build on perfboard) and an AOUT for the CV outputs - there are 3 varieties of AOUT, all with pros and cons. Their schematics are all on the ucapps site. You could lay out a board with all that stuff, or download the layouts to the existing boards and start etching yourself. There is nothing stopping you from putting one layout right beside the other layout on the same board if you like.

    I think you can also use a DOUT for additional gate outputs. There's an article about that in the wiki.

    The best all-around AOUT (inexpensive, parts readily available, good pcb layout) is probably the AOUT_NG, and the existing layout for that isn't really suitable for home etching, but boards are readily available from Smash TV.

    Don't forget you'll want a good quality bipolar power supply.

  12. pull-down resistors? I would think the AIN pin should have a 10 K resistor to ground. Similar to a DIN (which uses pull-up resistors IIRC).

    Just wondering: why are you trying to use AIN instead of DIN for buttons?

  13. Or an external VCA controlled via an AOUT module (-> expensive, but you asked for this)

    You know, it is a bit expensive, but if you are an accordionist looking at this type of thing, you would probably do very well to spend a few bucks and do this. You could control an external VCA right from MIDIbox SID, or you could control it using a separate MIDIbox.

    You would gain the ability to control anything analog with your bellows! A VCA, a VCF, a pair of VCAs (bellows-controlled panning?), the brightness of an LED, PWM on a VCO - a lot of really interesting opportunities here.

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