Wilba
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Posts posted by Wilba
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grizz: that's the one I normally buy for kits. I've had to buy Mouser 512-MM74HC165N for the current batch of sammichSID. I think Digikey had some also but they were more expensive.
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"forever" because of errors or just slow to upload?
Post screenshot after the upload, it should show the speed at the end.
It couldn't possibly be slower than my M-Audio Delta 1010LT.
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I forgot to mention another option... the lead or wire that's supposed to be soldered to a missing pad can instead be soldered to a track that connects to the missing pad. Just scrape the solder mask off the track.
However, for JD6 and JD7, it doesn't matter what the pad is like on the bottom, it's only connected on the top layer to the resistors.
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12V AC 500mA works. If using unregulated, any higher than 1000mA (1A) is too much, input voltage would be too high because the current load is much lower than the rating. If it's regulated, it doesn't matter if the current rating is high, as voltage will be constant.
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I don't think they're reattachable. If a pad is broken, you would attach a wire to the lead or wire in the hole, and then connect the other end to another pad which would be connected to the broken pad by a track. In this context, with a pad on the other side still good, perhaps you can solder the new wire at the same time as soldering the remaining good pad - i.e. poke it through if the wire and "part" are on opposite sides.
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Possibly you have a short between the encoder pins/switches and the heatsink.
It could also be a bad connection between the PCBs, or a bad solder joint on the 74HC165, i.e. if pins are floating around then you will get the effect of random button presses and encoder turns.
I don't think it's related to power supply. 12V regulated 1.5A is good, you have plenty of power and it won't run too hot.
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"switchmode" and "transformer" are the two types of plugpack internals. Switchmode will be noisy for sammichSID - you'll hear it in the audio. Most of the new plugpacks are switchmode, especially if they're light and high current... I'm pretty sure practically every mobile phone charger is now switchmode. Electronics stores should still stock the old "transformer" kind.
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Btw.: good that you stopped your activities with the PCB layout, as this gave me some time to reconsider the usage and arrangement of extra buttons. :)
Yes... I really like what you did with the extra buttons.
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Livid does nice buttons with 3mm LEDs or RGB smd inside
Livid's boards don't support RGB SMD LEDs as far as I can tell, only monochrome. Maybe you're thinking of SparkFun? https://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=7835
The problem with those is the cost. SparkFun's ones are cheaper and are known-good to support even fat 5mm RGB through-hole LEDs. 10 USD for 16 rubber buttons, so 160 USD just for 16x16 rubber caps! Oops I forgot the other 33 buttons on the proto... so it's more like 200 USD just for the rubber caps! Not many people would want to spend that.... VERY TEMPTING THOUGH!
Looks great TK... can't wait to see it with the panels and button caps!
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OK take a break :wink: post again when you need some help.
I'm pretty sure that 12V DC 500mA should be enough when the backlight is at minimum.
Try taking out the SIDs.
IF you can get everything working nicely without the SIDs then it's most likely a current load issue (or power supply issue).... i.e. the PIC is doing stupid things because it's not getting stable 5V.
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I can almost guarantee these are all switchmode not transformer. There's no way you can get 12V DC 2.5A out of a plugpack that small.
You'll need to hunt around some more, or hope some of the builders local to you can help.
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Maybe LCD brightness pot is too high. Are you using the correct settings for JBL and JR4 and brightness? Try setting brightness pot to minimum.
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As per other post, since you're using AC supply, problems with the 2200uF cap and bridge rectifier might cause voltage instability.
If you can, see if a known good 12V DC supply (pref. regulated) makes it work.... then you'll know it's related to AC->DC section of the PCB.
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nicely done.
12V DC 300mA isn't enough. SIDs alone will draw 100mA each, even a miserly 100mA (of 250mA max) to the backlight and you're over budget :wink:
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I'm having trouble figuring out if it's low power or high power. Based on how I interpreted the spec sheet, it's low power and I set it that way on my Sammich just to be safe, but it's way dimmer than I expected, even at full brightness - not unreadable or unusable, but still pretty weak. Just wondering if it's not a particularly bright LCD or if I should be setting to to high power.
Datasheet shows two backlight options, yellow-green (LED array, 210 mA) and white (edge-lit, 40 mA). This red backlight LCD has a LED array, so it can take 210 mA and should be treated as "high-power" with respect to the build guide instructions. Take care to set the brightness pot at half-way (12 o'clock) to avoid oversupplying the backlight, since with JBL set to "12V" and a shunt in JR4, actual supply will vary when using unregulated power supplies.
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The shorts between C5 and C6 probably weren't the problem... they are already connected in parallel.
Most likely the rectifier was the problem, and why shunts in JBP would make things work, and a 9V AC wasn't working, as without a rectifier, you don't turn AC into DC.
If you blew your 12V supply, it wasn't because it was unregulated. Regulated just means there's a voltage regulator inside it. Well, I suppose with a regulated supply, a short circuit will cause oversupply of current and the regulator will shut down. With an unregulated supply, it probably just melts the transformer wires. I don't know, I'm just guessing.
Your voltages look OK now... that 9V AC will work for now, but might have trouble later when you're supplying SIDs, they'll each draw 100mA max. on the 5V supply, plus 40mA max. on the 9V supply. But you said it's 1A so it should work. 13.3V DC at no load is pretty decent, just be aware the voltage might drop.
So... I'm assuming you mean you get an upload request but it has a few extra F0 to start. I guess that means it's possible there's a voltage stability issue... it's a bit slow to get stable 5V (or just a bit noisy), so the PIC resets a few times on bootup. Replacing C5 (the big blue 2200uF cap) might be a good start. I'll post you a replacement if you can't get one yourself or can't wait :wink: just let me know.
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Shunts in JBP bypass the bridge rectifier. If you are using AC power supply, then you need the bridge rectifer. If you are usingDC power supply that is tip positive, then you can use JBP shunts, however it should STILL work without JBP shunts. You should always use TWO or ZERO shunts in JBP.
Did you install the bridge rectifier correctly? The flat side should match the outline on the PCB. The "+" should be at the bottom left corner, closest to the big blue capacitor.
Perhaps there is a bad solder joint with the bridge rectifier pins. Maybe it only works with the JBP bypass because the bridge rectifier isn't connected properly.
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OK I have a theory...
If the "6581" pins of JP are shorted together, then when the shunt is in "6581" position, it's redundant and stuff works. Then when the shunt is in "6582" position, it's now shorting between the input power (eg. 12ish V) and the 9V supply. Well, actually this is shorting between the input and output of the 7809 voltage regulator. Bad. I would not be surprised if that causes weird stuff to happen.
Check if the "6581" pins of JP are connected. You probably might have caught this when I said "Do voltage tests with NO shunt in JP or JBP" if you extended this to testing the voltages at the SID modules. With no shunt in JP, there should not be any 12V or 9V power supplied to the SID modules (i.e. top right corner pin of the SID socket).
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Do you mean spray painted the engravings?
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Your 9V AC tests sort of show that it's not strong enough to supply 10.5V after it's rectified by the bridge rectifier, and with less than that going into the 7809 voltage regulator, you don't get 9V DC, which means you also don't get 5V DC.
The 12V DC supply is better. At least with jumper in 6581 mode, that looks OK.
The big blue cap is used to smooth AC into DC. If you supply with 12V DC, it's not that critical and is probably not the cause of your problem.
Just to confirm, when you say "--with jumpers in 6581 mode" and "-- with jumpers in 6582 i get nothing" do you mean you set both JBP and JP headers, or only JP?
Don't use JBP unless you are using a regulated DC tip-positive power supply.
Still, I can assume you've set JP to "6582" and left JBP open... that should work just as well as JP set to "6581" i.e. you should still be getting 9V and 5V. So perhaps there's some kind of short. But it really doesn't make sense at all to me... all JP does is connect the SIDs and the audio buffers to either the 9V supply or the 12V (input) supply. If there was a short to ground on the middle (common) pin of JP, then it would also be shorting when the jumper is set to "6581", shorting your input supply and you wouldn't be getting 9V and 5V output. Hmm...
Stick with the 12V DC supply. Do voltage tests with NO shunt in JP or JBP. Test voltages. Repeat with JP set to "6582", no shunt in JBP. Post results. I'll scratch my beard some more. I might have to grow back my beard, which will take a while, sorry. :whistle:
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To start with, 4.15V is too low.... the 5V regulator should be outputting much closer to 5V, at least 4.9V
Check the voltage going into the 7805, that would be the pin not labelled with a 5V or 0V (ground) label.
What is the 9V voltage like?
I don't know what you mean by "recognized by the software". Do you mean MIOS Studio 2 is not detecting an attached MIDIbox?
I'd say fix your voltage issue first, in case it is low voltage causing the MIDI to not work.
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But what does it show now when it boots up? Do you see the "MIOS V1.9g"?
Try uploading MIOS V1.9g using MIOS Studio 2, make sure there are no errors. Get it back to the "READY." screen if you can.
It could be that it worked before, you had a good connection between base PCB and LCD, but after detaching/attaching the control surface PCB, it's jiggled a "poor" solder joint and made it "bad". Check there aren't any bad connections there, or shorts between pins.
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Cool! That will get you going until your replacement gets there, maybe before next weekend if you're lucky.
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I apologize for the missing resistor network, I don't know how that could happen, as I definitely count four per kit, and I'm pretty good at counting to four, been doing it for three decades now. :tongue:
I will send you a replacement today, but if you can't wait (or want a temporary fix), you can use five 10K resistors... solder them vertically in the pads that DON'T have the white dot next to it. Then solder a wire vertically in the pad that has the dot next to it. Bend that wire and solder it to the other ends of the resistors, so all the resistors are connected to the "common" pad (with the white dot). I've done this before with home-made DIN modules, it's a bit ugly but works. If you don't have 10K resistors, then anything between 1K and 50K will work just as well, they don't have to be all the same value either. If this is a temporary fix (i.e. you do want to replace it with the right part, right?) maybe leave some room so you can cut the resistors off near the PCB and remove the leads individually.
sammich 22nf or 470pf
in MIDIbox SID
Posted
OK something is wrong. It only takes 82 seconds for me.
For the upload to work, both the PC and the PIC must be running their serial comms at the same speed, so it's not an issue with that... i.e. each BYTE is being sent and received OK, but there must be massive delays between bytes. The problem would therefore have to be at the PC end, since there's nothing at the PIC end that could slow down an upload.
What kind if MIDI interface are you using? Perhaps there's a conflict with other USB devices or it expects to be in a USB 2.0 port or some other issue.