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Posts posted by arumblack
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Your Welcome.
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They sell some stuff called tin-it. should be able to find it a lot of places. One thing I've noticed, but not tried, is that when I use desoldering braid on a board with bare copper traces, and it slides a little, it sticks to the traces. Maybe you could use it like a sponge, and wipe the tin to the traces? If you got solder with a low melting point, and used a temp controlled soldering iron turned down as low as neccesary, you would minimize the chance of lifting pads or traces with excessive heat. I can't speak for the tin-it, never used the stuff, but I have seen it.
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Don't forgrt you need a way to get feedback to the lcd, or risk gettig out of sync with the host application, if you used a mouse click or keycomand to unmute a track you muted with the wireless box for example. a gamepad with rumble feature must have some way to trigger the rumble, so that would be the one to look at.
Good luck!
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7 pin DIN. (like midi, but 7 pins).
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maybe someone will be able to identify a possible solution to routing output from the PIC into the gamepad PCB. Then we can write up some rumblepad features into MIOS.
>:( :o ;) :D
Yes! I can see this for those late nightheadphone situations...Feel tha Bass!
Seriously though, If you've got a controller and the time go for it. I'm sure you could get it to trigger some note on/offs, in fact I'm now having visions of playing drum beats on a playstation controller. ( X for kick, O for snare, L and R pads for hat's and cymbals....)if you just sent some minimal data to the midibox, and let it decode and generate midi data... somehow get the controller to replace some buttons or encoders. Sorry i don't have any solid answers, really just thinking aloud. If you have a logic analyzer, you could determine the output of the reciever for each button, and then write mios code to convert that data to your desired midi note or cc or whatever. I know this isn't exactly like dancing around on stage with a wireless midibox strapped to your arm, but it could still be cool.
and i just thought, i bet the range of those controllers isnt too great.
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This is true, but The amount of data for the dozen or so buttons is minimal. A midi drum pattern probably has more data, especially at 180 BPM ( though I have seen some intense button pushing in the heat of battle). Then add in your synth lines and CC's , you use lots of those right?
Any way, I'm not exactly sure how a gamepad works, but i would guess the buttons send a binary code, maybe on bit to identify the controller(player 1 or 2) and 3-4 more to identify the button(3 bits allows for 8, 4 for 16) and a bit to indicate on or off.so this is maybe a note on/off message for midi, any analog sticks would need to be converted todigital, I would imagine this to be about equivilent to a midi cc.
so if you only wanted to play 16 notes and use 2 cc's, maybe it would work. Actually it could work even better than that. I believe kenton is working on a wireless midi transmitter/reciever (maybe it's out already?) but knowing them it won't be cheap. here it is http://www.kentonuk.com/products/midistream.shtml it seems to be one way, expensive, and you cant use two in close proximity (they all use the same frequency)
but it can be done. I don't know how much hype is in that ad on kentons page , or the "Reviews" on the link (like they would put a bad one on there).
Anyway, i guess I just made my whole post pointless......
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The problem with wireless is that it's really hard to do accurate timing. Say a data packet is lost, it must either be resent or ignored. Midi isn't ethernet, it can't just reorder the data after it's recieved, it needs to get it all, in order and on time. though with a high enough transmission rate,it should be possible. anyway, its really not as easy as it would seem at first thought.
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Great work! we have been discussing similar ideas on this thread
http://69.56.171.55/~midibox/forum/index.php?topic=4195.0
So some questions.
Where you able to use the dout to directly trigger the 808 Modules? I was thinking this could be possible, or I was thinking to use a monostable multivibrator. Of course the less circuitry the better.
Anyway, that's real good work you did, plus the documentation and website too! Much respect to you!
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Indeed , very nice work.... especially the aout for accent! And it seems like he uses the dout directly.
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I am strongly considering a Tektronix 7000 series mainframe. Theese are Modular units and can be configured as O-scope, Logic analyzer, spectrum analyzer, DMM and more, all by changing modules. Plenty of used ones in various conditions on Ebay, or for higher price (and calibrated) elsewhere.
http://www.jvgavila.com/tek7000.htm
http://www.caip.rutgers.edu/~kahrs/testeq/7000.html
For some info, the second one will help compare the different mainframes.
Of course you may decide this is not for you, but I list it as one possibility.
enjoy,
AB
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Or would it be possible to directly generate the pulse from the DOUT via mios? (The voltage level could be changed by the resistor on the Dout if neccesary).
Hmm.. with some coding effort, probably yeah.. (Would this then involve counters for each DOUT pulse duration..?!)
Bye, Moebius
( Using mios to generate the pulse would likely use some sort of counter function from the pic or mios)
Well, It looks like it could go both ways. Doing it in software would probably be the "easier" solution, except for me because I have no idea about MIOS Programming yet, and I think I actually know how to do it in Hardware. I wonder if it would be possible to build into MBSEQ? All that would be needed is to allow drum notes (once there is a drum mode anyway) to toggle a DOUT pin long enough to trigger the monostable multivibrator. I have no idea how much code that seemingly simple action would take. I will Try to finish a test core tommorow or friday, and see what I can do with MIDI IO 128.
P.S. Sorry If I jacked your thread Airmailed......
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And the hihat's straignht from the clock pulse, or every other clock pulse. Fortunately the trigger lines all have juper wires i can just desolder them to interface the new system. I think I could just use a Monostable multivibrator triggered by the DOUT to create the pulse. Or would it be possible to directly generate the pulse from the DOUT via mios? (The voltage level could be changed by the resistor on the Dout if neccesary).
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I have been planning to do something else along those lines. I have a Boss dr-55That I plan to mod and the sequencer sucks so I was just going to make a Midi to trigger interface. Then you could use it from any sequencer, which for me would be my Korg ES-1, and replaced with MB seq once I build one and the drum mode is implemented.
Anyway, I was thinking that I should be able to trigger the DR-55 From a DOUT( possibly needing to go through some proccessing to match the DR-55 Trigger)Using the MidiIO 128 firmware, and perhaps something more complex later on, which thanks to the flexibility of mios wouldn't need hardware changes, except to add more features, like midi control of drum parameters. Then I thought I would build some more circuits to add to it, My own modular drum synth.
Anyway I think It should not require much programming. Different modules may need a different trigger, but i would think some sort of pulse would be most common. Any one know for sure?
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Nice idea using the keyboard bracket to mount the front panel knobs and stuff. Good work.
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the tip seems comparable to the Hakko I use at work (different model station). I think it would be a good fit, but didn't have them side by side to say for sure.
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Thanks Smash, I'll give it a try.
@ dr.Bunsen. Yes it should be possible to build one pair at a time. at this rate it may be a while umtil I'm even ready to prototype the board. I try to work on it when I can. I think I could finnish easily with a two sided board, but I am trying to stay on one side for now, so ppl can make thier own boards. If someone wanted to stock the board that would be fine by me, but I would want to do much testing first.
thanks all.
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I think I may use some SMD's to save board space. I think most people could solder SMD resistors and caps ok. They would be on the copper side of the board so maybe it will save some space. If nothing else they are smaller than their through-hole counterparts. I wonder, can I route traces underneath them? I don't see why not. I will try to play around with this some next week, hopefully I can find the time.
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Thanks for the congrats! I have no degree *yet* I am working on it. Fortunately it is a school system, so they understand the being educated process. Plus I know more than the guy who was doing( who's true skills lie in broadcasting and production ) and they have been sending stuff off that he couldn't fix. The pay is certainly less than I would like, if I had a degree, but I need the good resume experience real bad now so I consider it to be worth it. If the Hakko at work uses the same tips, I will compare them. Actually, I got a tip when mine was backordered, i then cancelled the order for the iron, but forgot to cancel the tip ( I needed some other things on that order too bad to wait 3 weeks). I will dig it out and compare it to the iron at work. I could live with degree's celsius, but since you mention that I wonder if the display is worth an extra ten bucks? Also they have an smd tweezer you can get for it, though I don't do much smd work.
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I certanily dont have any spare time for any KD this, or KD that , if people are happy
to use the Torstens design as is,( without knowing possible and future errors), be happy,
use it, if you rather be pleased to be of lesser knoweledge, i couldent care less, and if
people dont want free help, just say so and i will go away.
Reg
KD
Sorry your so busy........ Hmmm it just seemed like maybe you wanted to help out.
I just don't understand, you claim to offer free help, but don't have time to help anyone?
I will check out the links you posted, Thank you.
There are people here who want to understand theese things, and there are people here who just want to build a box and make music. I think most would fall into the latter category. For them I think, "If it ain't broke , don't fix it" applies.
I have studied electronics for just over a year, and none of my classes have yet touched on ground loops, and only briefly mentioned bypass capacitors in digital circuits to deal with switching noise. Anything else I have to learn for myself, and have benifited greatly from discussions in this and other forums, possibly more than reading it for myself.
Anyway, sorry to rant on,
Thanks again for the links,
AB
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Awesome! I recently got a job working on media equiptment for our county school system (mostly mechanical problems, cleaning heads and soldering loose connections, they don't even have a scope for me to use... but I love it still, my first REAL Job in electronics), and they have a Hakko, not exactly like that one but I like using it very much! I am definitely going to order the one with the digital readout now. Also they have a benchtop fume absorber ( which I saw in a catalog at work , and I think it was made by Hakko too) that I want to get, only like 28 dollars or something. Currently i use a fan I salvaged from an old PC case hooked up to a wall wart, to blow the fumes out of my face so I don't breathe them directly in.
Thanks for the test report!
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Hey KD, maybe yu can lend your expertise to some of my questions at this thread http://69.56.171.55/~midibox/forum/index.php?topic=3941.msg25566#msg25566 ? And if you know of a more capable/less crippled freeware pcb design software than eagle, chime in on it. Thank you much!
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If the filter has CV inputs you can simply add an aout module to your seq and use it to control those parameters with CV. The filtrex 1 has them, as do the modular synth modules(of course ;) ).If you need to control functions other than those provided with cv inputs, things get trickier. You would need the schematics and some knowledge, I don't even know if I could do it. But I was told to look into OTA's for replacing Pots... Still a little above my level at the moment. Anyone else got any suggestions?
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Just look on the schematic and trace the power lines backwards.. there is a header (J2) after the large cap, for powering additional cores,right before the voltage regulator. that should get some voltage greater than 5v ,depends on your supply voltage, should get the same across the big Cap. Are you sure you put in the voltage regulator the proper way? how about the bridge rectifier?
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Ihave used the same parts with succes.
Ihope you get it figured out.
By the way i have been working on my sid for over a year, I have one good core/sid combo, and recently converted it to an 8580 and optimized psu.
what are you using your midibox for ?
in Miscellaneous
Posted
No option to choose more than one?