Attila

OK, so I'm the dumb ;D Anyway, I came up with a new design, and I have only 9 bridges on it and it will fit better in my amp (first clue to my question). Is it better?

I tried it before posting this whole thing. The autorouter always failed at 70-80% (depending on the parts placement), so I sat down and routed the PCB myself. JP1-JP8 are close as possible to their IC pins. BTW: do you know, what's this?

Have a look @ this: http://www.redcircuits.com/Page8.htm

I am interested in the PCB routing techniques. I've recently made a simple PCB with Eagle. The autorouter could not finish the board with only one layer, so I went to do it myself. I ended up with 11 bridges. Here is it: Is there any possible solution to reduce or eliminate the bridges? I would send the Eagle project file. Is there any better program that has a better autorouter?

I figured out yesterday, that I need a DINx1 module to have a control surface. OK, that doesn't matter, but I don't have PCBs now. Is it possible to use a DINx4 board with fitted components only for one DIN module? And when I'll upgrade my config to a full control surface, I would only fit the other parts. BTW: SmashTV, do you ship to Slovakia? I don't see it in countries list. And is there any other solution with the payment?

There is a big problem with SmashTV's or voti.nl webshop. They all accept only those forms of payment, that I don't have: credit card or PayPal. I have only cash (and not very much) since I'm a 16-year old student. Would be anybody so kind to send an encoder to me? I would pay the postage (within the EU) and the encoder by "cash-on-delivery" method. If somebody could help me, please drop me a line. Thanks!

Fine! I'm not in school. :) I've got a cold and just sitting at the PC or watching TV. But I have all the thing, except for the rotary encoder. I don't know it's name in slovak or hungarian (they speak both in the shop, me too). When I was in the shop, it was a bit like Activity: it's like a pot, but when you turn it to the left, it connects the common pin and first pin for a while, but when you turn it to the right, it connects the common pin with the another pin. I also have the PCBs, and started assembling the core module. I've got a nice 30w soldering iron and a MIDI cable to my PC. Next week I'll get a MIDI cable to connect it with my synth (Yamaha PSR-540). Anybody some suggestions? Or are you ignoring this topic?

I have all the parts for the core module, except for the optocoupler. They had only 6N136 and I was unsure, if it will work. Also, they had only 1,5A rectifier, but it's the same as the 800mA. Tomorrow, I'm gonna buy the missing parts (especially the optocoupler) for the core module and for the SID module.... and I'll be happy, if it will work :) I have cannibalized some 2200uF caps from Commodores, but they are only rated for 16V. The orderlist says 25V caps. Can I use them? So far, I spent 160 Sk for the PCB, 295 Sk for the PIC and 85 Sk for the parts. That's 540 Sk alltogether, or in euros €14,50. Pretty good, isn't it?

Hooraay! The PIC has arrived friday! I can't believe it. Today I'll get the other things and probably tomorrow I will start putting it together. Is it possible to get it working on one afternoon? (3-4 hours) Are there any uncommon parts as the PIC was?

I think FireWire is much better. It's 400MBit/s full duplex. USB 2.0 is theoretically faster (480MBit/s), but it's half-duplex. Because of this FW is more stable I think, but I can't test it, because I don't have a FW port and device. I have a question, that is a bit off-topic: does anybody know some affordable RS232 to USB adapter chips? I would like to build an IR reciever, but for USB.

I am a bit angry now. Still waiting for the PIC, that I have ordered a month ago! BTW: Is it possible to build the whole thing with the PIC16F877 and then when I have the PIC18F452, I just change the PIC and the crystal? Or do I have to made some other modifications? Tomorrow the PCBs will be done... There will be a school exhibition of circuits in the school, and I want to show up there with the MBSID. The only problem, that this will be on the 16th of february... :( anyway, I try to be there... if not with the MBSID, then with DLV (my homemade NE555 based synth. The name comes from transcribing 555 to roman numbers)

What is the configuration of the PC? You could use it as a home jukebox. Get an LCD display (at least 2x16 - bigger is better), build an IR reciver (I suggest this one: www.cesko.host.sk/girderplugin.htm), hook it up to your stereo and you have a good MP3 player. Or if it's a stronger PC, you could use it as a HTPC. I suggest this minimal config: 700MHz CPU 128MBs of RAM (256MB should be a LOT better) 20GBs of HD a DVD-ROM drive a graphic card with TV-out and alternatively a TV tuner card. Install Win2K or XP (only with 256 megs of ram), and some HTPC application, such as PowerCinema or Intervideo Home Theater. Or give it to me ;), I would pay the postage, if you are in the EU...

A really simple metronome could be made with an NE555, but I'm afraid that you cannot adjust the accent or mount a BPM display. Anything can be made with this chip... Or use a really simple and common PIC. I don't have other ideas, but I bet there are lots of these circiuts.

Pfew! It wasn't easy to understand and it won't be easy to do it. Anyway, I found a cheap method to use: jumpers... as in the pc, but not 2 or 3 in a row, but 13 in 8 rows. In the local shop they sale 40x2 pin DIL (am I right???) connectors for cheap. I'm gonna get a couple of them. Thanks! I had only one schematic of a 555 in astable mode and 3 equations: (am I right??? are those equations???) one for frequency: f=1,44/(R1+2R2)*C one for HIGH time: t=0,69*(R1+R2)*C and one for LOW time: t=0,69*R2*C where R1 is a resistor between Vcc and pin 7, R2 is between pins 6 and 7 and C is between pin 6 and ground. Also I'm only 16 years old... :) and electronics are my life. I started from nothing (ok, I knew a bit of soldering, when I was 13) and the only person who understood electronics was my dad. He doesn't know all the equations (as above) but he knew it only practically, BUT VERY WELL! (I wasn't shouting ;)) I will discuss this SRAM thing with my friend and decide if it worths for it. And sorry for my English ;)

I have to use 104 switches for an 8 step sequencer! Why would I expand it? Btw: has anybody an idea how to reduce the number of swithces/buttons from 104???

Why not? ;) It consists of 13 oscillators, wich generate square-shaped signals. They are astable multivibrators operating at a high frequency. The heart of an oscillator is the NE555 timer chip, wich operates in astable mode. The frequency (and pulse width) is set by two resistors and a cap by the following eqation: f=1,44/( (R1+2R2)*C ). The IC output is only active, when at pin 4 (reset) is a logical TRUE state. The sequencer will drive those inputs. The teory is from http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm but the idea is mine, and it's of coure "open-source" and "public domain", like Throsten's MIDIBoxes. You can build as many oscillators if you want to increase the number of keys. Or you can use an NE556, wich are two 555s in one chip. It's easy, isn't it? :) I will go with this to a school exhibiton of home-made circuits. The first three winners have to do one subject less on the final exams! Also I will go there with a MIDIBox SID (if the PIC arrives - i'm waiting for 3 weeks!!!)

Hi all! I'm building right now a polyphonic synth from NE555s. It will have one octave (from A1 to A2). I would like to build a step sequencer for it. My solution is simple: i've got running a CD4022 3bit counter. Each output can trigger all of the 555s. The only problem is that it needs 104 switches. Does anybody know an alternative to this? For example I would have 13 buttons (for the tones) and one step inc/dec button. But how to realise it? Can anybody help?

Some replies: Davo: The +4 is not working, but I have a second +4, that is 80% working, because it doesn't do any disk/tape operations. And when I turn on this (bad) +4, there are only random colours and chars. But if you want, you can send me that case ;) gbeth: why would fry them? I have done a lot of projects with a lot of caps, resistors, transistors, ICs and other electronic components. All are working fine! BTW the ICs are in sockets, so they wont be damaged. illogik: as I wrote, my friend Norbert has all the needed things to get a PCB done. From the printer trough the UV lamp and chemicals to the drill. ...and some news. The shop was closed due to inventory check; also I forgot my list at home. ...and last but not least an (off-topic) question: does anybody know the input connections of the Philips 7BM743 B/W TLL monitor? I would like to hook it up to my C128D. The computer outputs TTL-level color signal (CGA) and the monitor accepts B/W TTL-level signal (Hercules).

Because in Slovakia the parts are FAR cheaper than the whole kit. For example I've bought a 100x160mm PCB (UV-sensitive) for €3,50. Yes, my soldering iron is 75W. I have a 30W simple "plug in & solder" type, but it's a piece of sh*t. Also here is my desk, where I used to do these projects: On the picture I'm getting done the preamp kit for my guitar amp (the amp can be also seen on the picture). There are my three best friends: the soldering iron, oscilloscope and the multimeter... :)

This topic will deal about making a MIDIBox SID using only a local shop and a friend (only for PCBs). The idea came form Wisefire's blog, but he only ordered the parts as a kit. I'm going to buy (parts) and make (PCB) it myself. The town, where I live, there are only 2 electronic shops, PDA Elektronik and Satelcom. I prefer PDA, so I will buy the parts there. I've already ordered the PIC a week ago. Still nothing. Tomorrow I'm going to buy the other parts. Since I'm a 16-year old student, who is low on budget, so I will make my PCBs at a friend. Some details about the project: I'm going to build a Step A control surface, and then extend it to Step C. The whole synth will be placed in a Commodore Plus/4 machine's case, because I don't have power to destroy my fully working C64. I will also use the power supply of the +4. I have a 2x16 LCD at home, so it will be used in this project. I plan to put 2 BankSticks into the MBSID. It will be driven from my PC and my Yamaha PSR-540 synth, but when I purchase my CME UF5 MIDI keyboard and controller, it can be used for live performace. Some detalis about me and the future usage of this *WONDERFUL* project: I'm a member of a rock/metal band, as a keyboard player. Recently I have a Yamaha PSR540, used mainly as a MIDI keyboard to softsynths. Our band is called "Dead Time", but we haven't got time and place to practise. Also we still don't have a drummer. My imagination was to play music like Machinae Supremacy does. The idea came before I heard about them, so when I discovered them and downloaded their songs, I was amazed, how good it sounds. So I hooked my MD recorder to my PC and filled one MD with MS songs. I'm listening to them often, when I'm going somewhere in the town. Since I'm attending a secondary electrotechnical school, I have made some DIY projects at school and at home. My best friends are my soldering iron (an old, 75W czechoslovak Tesla), my oscilloscope (it's a russian one) and in this case, Norbert H. who will help me with getting the PCBs done. For first post I guess it's enough. Attila.

it sounds amazing... I can't wait to build one, but the money is missing :'(

Hey, I would welcome the ARM-based MBSID... even if has downsides, but what doesn't. But I think, it could handle more SIDs. I don't very understand these circuits yet (but I can build them w/o problem - I even built my home amp), but I think the ARM is powerful enough to handle for example 6 or 8 SIDs (and probably more). The audio codec is needed for what? The SIDs have analog outputs. Even if you want to do an A->D conversion, please ignore the last two sentences. :D The USB seems to be a good idea too. Hope it'll be released.

Yeah, the MBSID with the MBSEQ would be a nice drum machine even for live performance. If you need this only in a studio, you have to build only the basic version (CORE+SID PCBs), the rest is controlled via MIDI. For playing live I recommend to build the fullest version, to change all the parameters on-the-fly... Hope it helped.

thx, I checked it inside, both in C64 and C128D I have a 8580.... but I want the 6581 :'(... still working on it. the ebay would be a great idea, but they aren't in Slovakia yet. And I don't have a credit card to register myself, as I'm only 16

ok, i will start to read the documentation(s)... (i started it already) after my previos reply, i found that page and started to add the modules i need, and ended up @ 150 dollars... I'm a bit scared... but I'll build this. At first I have to find some work for afternoons, when i'm not @ school. There will be one - my friend's friend needs to solder some components (mainly resistors and IC sockets) to a PCB, so it will be fun :) [off-topic] my dad was born in hungary, but my mum in slovakia. there are many hungarians in slovakia. so i speak hungarian (as my primary language), slovak and english. i understand czech, because it's very similar to slovak [/off-topic]