Therezin
-
Posts
253 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Posts posted by Therezin
-
-
did you know that it is used in those shiny silver amalgam fillings at dentists
I thought they stopped that years ago?
-
@Jidis: I assume that when you're etching alu with HCl, the bits you want shiny are the ones you coat with toner? Silly question, but I's gots ta ask...
@Artesia: That s**t is hot.
-
If you're after reliability, remember to make sure you're PCs power supply is up to the job too - audio can be very processor-intensive, so get the most powerful PSU you can afford, as a PC that pulls more than the PSU can handle will have no end of hangups and resets. Vast quantities of RAM and a large, fast hard disk are also a pre-requisite. I've got 1280MB of RAM and a 200gig SATA150 hard disk that do the job nicely, tho the 200gig's running out quickly. When I built the PC they cost me a hell of a lot, but now you should be able to pick up the same stuff as i'm running for about £100 if you shop around.
-
The application you load onto the PIC in your CORE module controls how the CORE interfaces with other modules. Your SN76489AN module would conceivably work, but you'd need to write a MIOS interface program to work with it.
-
- New: Lighting backlit controller buttons via MIDI
If that's true, it's worth the price of the upgrade. That simple.
-
The C16 had a very similar case to the 64, and that was a very dark charcoal grey, with light grey keys. Saw one at a car boot sale ~3 years ago for £2, but decided against it...
Edit: More here - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commodore_16
-
Can MPASM handle path/filenames with spaces in them, and more than 3 letters after the ".", or is it strictly old-school?
-
I remember seeing a thread on here that mentioned 15 minute PCBs, and on the site it linked to they gave a board a solder-masked appearance, but using ordinary green acrylic spray paint - it doesn't do anything soldermask-wise at all, just looks good when you've finished.
-
Happy birthday TK!
-
I'd say it's OK as long as the amount offered is appropriate - if someone does me a favour, I have no problem in buying them a beer or two.
-
I'm still interested, as long as it's not another 5 months 'til I hear from you again ;) - I'll take 16 of them if you still have them for $1AU each.
-
Welcome to the forum!
Buttons and such: The main thing is that they're a normally-open contact. You'll find that a lot of calculators, phones etc (probably most of them in fact) use a scanning matrix rather than individually connecting the buttons, and this might cause a problem... or it might not. YMMV.
Pots/Faders: The big issue here is whether the pot/fader (they're essentially the same thing but a different shape) uses a linear or logarithmic taper. Linear taper means the resistance increases in a linear fashion, while logarithmic taper means the resistance increases by a larger amount the higher up the scale you go. MIDI wants linear, while volume controls and the like tend to be logarithmic (because the human hearing is logarithmic).
Joysticks: Basically 2 pots controlled with one stick. They tend to be linear.
Mice: Use 2 encoders the same way that a joystick is 2 pots.
-
@ RTurner: My advice to you would be... zinc tablets. My mom works in the office at a lead mill, and to counter the effects of the huge amounts of lead in the air there they all have to take zinc tablets and have a monthly lead count test. You can pick them up from just about anywhere that sells vitamins.
-
That... is awesome. And just to make me even more jealous, he has a 909 :'(
-
I've had 2 cheap rotary tools in the past, never a dremel - the one thing that always annoys me about the cheapy ones is that they're so easy to stall the motors, even the mains-powered ones. is the dremel the same?
-
Isn't SynthEdit a program for making VST's? I'd suggest MIDIbox SE, whish is in keeping with the naming convention of the other MB's too - MIDIbox LC, CV etc...
-
It doesn't need to be exactly the same as long as it can take the voltage and current levels you're giving it. Shouldn't be a problem as they're normally rated for mains levels (230VAC) rather than the 9VAC we're giving them.
-
Wow, I didn't realise that so many people actually looked at my page - I better get on with buildingthe rest of the damn thing! I'll also update it with the info. about this problem, 'cause that's liable to catch a few people out if they're not expecting it...
-
The way I'd probably do it is using "plasticard" (think that might be a brand name, basically it's a sheet of plastic) and a glue called polystyrene cement. This stuff's basically a kind of glue that welds 2 pieces of plastic together, and it takes quite a lot of force to break it. I'd probably cut the plasticard to the shape of the keyboard cut-out as exactly as i can, then cement it in place. i'd then put some strips of the same stuff over the back of the join, again using poly cement - this should give it some extra strength.
-
V1 uses 18F452 and V2 uses 18F4620
Just to complicate matters, you can run v1 on a PIC18F4620...
-
You can use a wide range of pot values, but most commonly used is 10Kohm. Buttons have no resistance value, but you want momentary, normally open switches. These are the kind where
-
Sounds pretty cool - are you still shipping PICs with just the bootloader as well? I think that for those of us building our first midibox, it might be useful to know how to upload MIOS...
-
Right, I know this topic's getting a little old now, but how's this sound...
TV resolution, frame rate etc are limited by available memory, and the app to display to a TV takes up most of the rest of the memory leaving no room for anything musical.
1. PIC18F4620 has a lot more memory than the 452, so can this be used for more code / resolution?
2. Could a driver be written that uses the MBHP_TV as a large (G)LCD, running off a second MBHP_CORE?
EDIT: I know it annoys people to say this, I know it certainly annoys me, but my programming skills are nowhere near good enough to implement this, I just came up with the idea and thought it best to post it before I forgot..
-
I have the the one in the middle but the bottom of it has been ripped off. I cannot see any fuses.
If yours is anything like mine, You'll find the fuse in the mains plug.
MIDIbox SID Operating Manual
in MIDIbox SID
Posted
It sounds like a pretty damn good idea to me. Is there nothing in the MIDIbox documentation project forum?