c0nsumer

Just as a suggestion, connect just the Core and SID modules, and hook the core to something which will allow you to listen to the audio output. If you have a BankStick, Core, and SID connected, the SID will play a short set of tones upon power on. Similar tones will be played when the BankStick is unplugged. These tones are generated by the SID and, in my opinion, a very simple way to test to see if the SID is 'listening' to the Core. Also, try the mbsid_interconnection_test_b.zip. This will let you know if your Core is properly communicating with the SID. (Instructions are included in the file's source -- main.asm I believe.) If it is, then look at the DIN module. Just break the problem down so you can validate everything one part at a time, then you'll eventually come across one which isn't right. -Steve

My interest was really two-fold. One, to see if I could figure out why the software was re-licensed from GPL, but after reading through some of the more heated forum discussions, I think I understand why, and I can't blame you. (For some of it I'm surprised it's still this open, but that's another discussion...) Two, I'm fairly new to working with PICs, and I want to see what sort of things are changed in order to fix X or Y bug. I want to try and learn from the corrections you made just to see how things are done. There are some changes I would like to try making to the SID application (specifically the redesign of the menu system to be editable with a single button + rotary encoder), but I don't know enough yet software-wise to do them. So I'm trying to learn what I need to know. This seems like one of the steps. -Steve

Just wanting to see what was changed... General things are reflected in the changelog, but with out public (-ly known?) CVS or SVN it's hard to see what was actually changed. Pulling diffs is the only way I can go. For what it's worth, I found some of the older ones on what I think is an old Israeli SourceForge mirror. As these are GPL'd files, they appear to be the ones which were pulled from SourceForge around the time TK changed the license from GPL to what it currently is. Those files can be found here: http://ftp3.ie.freebsd.org/pub/sourceforge/m/mi/mios/ That's not really what I want, though... I'm more interested in the SID-specific stuff. I'm only able to find binaries of those. :( -Steve

Is there an archive of older versions of MIOS and applications available anywhere? I wasn't able to find any info relating to such a thing in the Download section, and plugging in what seem to be appropriate filenames returns 404's on the files. Thanks... -Steve

This is a clone of an analog synth. Making the sounds programmable via MIDI would be an amazing amount of work, and thusly make it no longer a proper clone. -Steve

Ah, nifty. So you've got permission from TK to include MIOS in something you are selling? Congrats. Got any more info about the board layout, dimensions, anything like that? I'm interested, but I want more details first... -Steve

Do you have more info about these PCBs? As in, how things will be triggered, types of controls, etc? Thanks... -Steve

Got a link to where to purchase one? I hit up Jaytronics site but was having a hard time finding it. I currently just use a tray set in a bath of hot water, manually agitated, and it works out great. Then I use a cobbled together plastic / stainless steel double boiler to tin plate the boards. It's a hack, but it works. (See a poorly laid out, but finished board here.) For exposing PCBs, I use a standard 4' two-tube fluorescant lamp set on wooden blocks 4" above a surface. Exposure is done in my laundry room, as it can be made completely dark, and I'll use a clip-on light fitted with a red bulb for safelight-ish illumination. -Steve

A hacksaw blade can be rather corse for doing this. I personally would recommend either using a scroll saw (hand held or tabletop) with a metal-cutting blade (very fine teeth) or a bandsaw. I personally use a bandsaw with a 28tpi blade and it works pretty well, with the biggest problem being the width of the kerf. On smaller boards it can easily account for 5% of the width of the board. If using something powered, it'll help to sandwhich the board between pieces of hardboard, as this will help keep the copper from burring. And of course, file all the edges smooth when you are done. Soon I'll have to cut out the center of five PCBs (these), and I plan on using a Dremel mounted in a drill press (as seen in the background here) fitted with a small, round cutter (actually, an old dental bit) to mill out the center of the board. This works really, really well. Nice, smooth cuts and minimal filing. -Steve

Today it was 37.2°C here, with an apparant temp (after figuring in humidity) of 40.5°C. And we're at ~42.5°N latitude. It's getting fscking HOT. -Steve

Ah, good idea. In the amount of time it took you to make that reply you could have added the link to the wiki yourself, though. Why not just add things you find useful instead of suggesting that others do so? -Steve

You mean Oregon's Spain?

I saw that post... That's a pretty nice price. I bet if you offer to ship them to the US (explicitly) you'll find some buyers. I'd buy some, but I don't think I'll have a use for them. -Steve

Looks to me like it's just a CFC / Methanol blend. (datasheet) Why not use just methanol (or isopropyl, since it's easier to obtain) instead of dumping CFCs into the atmosphere? I'd imagine straight alcohol is cheaper, too... -Steve

Mind sharing the part numbers? -Steve

I'm not sure, honestly. I had a chance to get a board set, so I did. There's something I like more about the P3 design, mostly the elegance of the hardware. I've also heard very good things about it as well. So, I really can't compare one to the other until I have each in front of me and use both for a while. I'm not sure I'll get a chance any time soon, either. Along with the P3 I still have a 9090 to build, and beyond acquiring the PCBs I haven't even begun to acquire parts for this one. The enclosure for this one won't be fun at all, either... -Steve

Hey everyone... I just took a moment to write up the steps I use to clean flux from PCBs after I assemble them. This isn't always needed, but it's generally regarded as a good idea. I do this using simple 99% isopropyl alcohol, distilled water, and a few brushes. That is, chemicals and supplies which are commonly available and not especially expensive. If you'd like to read this write-up, please look here: http://www.nuxx.net/wiki/Flux_Removal Suggestions / comments / questions / flames? -Steve

To where? Maybe you can find someone friendly in the States to re-ship one... I would, but I just placed a final, big order with Crystalfontz for the last three displays I needed. -Steve

Sure thing. :) Do you happen to have the model / part numbers? I might see if I can dig up a spares number for the display itself... I'll see if I can get a hold of specs for it from our HP rep. Huh, yeah... Makes sense. I'm (hopefully) going to be building a Sequentix P3 soon, so I'm not sure I'll have a need for a MIDIbox SEQ, otherwise I'd probably build one. (Well, maybe I will anyways... After the 808 clone is done, too...) -Steve

Ah, thanks. Yeah, not sure where to find that one either... -Steve

Some more info for you, copied from this post: CFAP2002A-Y-ECS (OLED): 1868 * 8 * 100nS ~= 1.49mS CFAH2002A-RMI-JP (LCD): 3231 * 8 * 100nS ~= 2.58mS This is with a PIC18F4620 with standard display (LCD) connection.

Just FYI, using LCD Benchmark with the gave these approximate results: CFAP2002A-Y-ECS (OLED): 1868 * 8 * 100nS ~= 1.49mS CFAH2002A-RMI-JP (LCD): 3231 * 8 * 100nS ~= 2.58mS The first number bounced around 10 or 20, so I picked one of the displayed numbers which appeared to be about in the middle.

Wow, what model are those Panasonics? That sounds cheaper than any other slide pot I've seen.

What sort of price are you looking for? And have you heard of less? That sounds fairly reasonable to me, considering what would be involved in one... -Steve

Mouser carries them: http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=RSA0N11M9A05