i45one

LOL, good theory but not the case. They just yellow very quickly. Crappy paint I suppose. I'm considering better panels at this point.

I can confirm that the first run panels do yellow, pretty badly actually. :(

Got the chips today in great order. Thanks again for all the chips you provide!

It was done with Adobe Acrobat. It's so easy it's just down stupid. Glad people are putting it to good use. Wish I could have excluded the flash links, maybe in rev2....

Here is the MBSID V2 manual in PDF format. I converted it so that it could be printed easily. I got tired of switching back and forth between Cubase and Firefox. My apologies if this is posted somewhere else. Enjoy! mbsidmanual.zip mbsidmanual.zip

Done. It's in the Q/A section.

If you noticed I talked about both sides of the board. On those connections the traces are on the top of the board. I soldered the resistors from the bottom originally. Best I can tell the "through hole" plating was off because the joints were fine on the bottom surface. Soldering the joints from the top solved the problem. I found it using your app. I found that by pressing on the area around JD6 lights would come on, go off etc. The exact joints that were off were JD6:D3 and D4. I soldered all of those resistors from the top and the thing is rock solid. If it's not on the wiki, you should put that app on there as a general testing tool. It saved my butt, and quickly at that. Now if I can get those two crippled 6581's out of it will be pretty much perfect. Last two 6582's should be here Monday. Any recommendations on pots? The ones I got were way too big to fit the back panel. Thanks again! #78 :-)

Problem solved.... Thanks again for everything. Just in case some other person has a similar problem, check BOTH sides of the board with a magnifying glass before ruling out bad joints/shorts.

gah! i fixed everything except for the 3rd row which is still dead as a doornail. that app is a GREAT thing to have. It turns out that there was a cold solder joint on one of the resistors, I dont know which one because I just reheated them all and everything else lit up. Still cant figure out whats up with that 3rd row.

Thanks Wilba! I will try this when I get home and let you know the result. From previous testing I know the LEDS are functioning. My meter in continuity mode presents a led friendly current. I am able to light each LED individually from the main PCB points, and CS PCB points. I can also rule out bad registers as I have rebuilt the whole DOUT section with the exception of the transistors. I don't have any spares lying around. If you think that might be the cause I will replace those too. I don't know if this tells anything, but I noticed that when I provide current to that row, those LEDS are a little brighter than the other rows. This led me to believe that I might have a bad resistor pack. I replaced all of that with different resistor packs and got the same result.

Thank you SOOO much Wilba! I'm going to give the app a shot. LED issues aside, this thing is a freaking beast of a synth. I can't stop playing with it. Ran the app, and unless I am missing something, it only goes through the matrix led's. Cool little app though. And you are correct in your assumption that sid 2 doesn't light. I think your diagram will be VERY helpful in what to look at to try to solve the non matrix issue.

Now that my ISP is back up... Here is what I've found after digging a little deeper: Leds that don't work: LFO/3 Control/Knob Waveform/Triangle Waveform/Random Mode/Sync Mode/Edit As the plot thickens, I've not had a chance to look at diagrams to see if all of this is related to one thing. If this lights a light bulb, please feel free to share.

Again, I've checked for shorts to ground. No shorts. As far as detecting pulses, I have no scope. What controls that line(what is the origin of the signal? I want to trace it from the start instead of the end of the signal. How hard would it be go script something to hold all LED's in a lighted state? I know there is a matrix test, but it doesn't work with this box. Anyone know how to modify it for the MB-6582?

All of these were the 1st thing I checked. I have continuity from pin 5 of U21 all the way to the last LED on that row. Everything is good there. I even checked continuity from pin 5:J9/J8 to pin 13? of U21, continuity there too. This one has me stumped. What can I check higher up in the circuit? Is there anything that will make ALL of the lights on this thing wake up? I know all of the encoders are working. The way I checked the lights was to push the matrix buttons. They flash one time when pressed. when pressed on the bottom, the column lights up minus the 3rd row, all rows are functional except for the 3rd. Thanks for the input so far ;D

I removed the LCD just for good measure, same thing, same thing. Forgive me if I am wrong, but since it is an entire horizontal row, wouldn't something around U21/D5 be at fault? I could be entirely backwards but Ive looked at the wiring diagram till i am almost blinded with it. Thats probably the reason I'm not seeing the problem/solution. As far I can tell pulse is present.