Futureman
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Posts posted by Futureman
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http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/64-led-button-pad-v20-for-monomelike-all-in-one-buttons-p-172.html
Some people might get a kick out of their stuff..
(I personally have not purchased from them, but they do use paypal, which is a plus for security)
Digital scope for $50 etc.. Monome stuff..
Regards
Mike
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In that case, the holes are 3.5 mm in diameter. Does that mean I should get an M3.5 sized screw or a M3 screw?
M3.5 is not a very standard size, M3 is very common. Stick with M3 thread.
The holes on the screen are 3.5mm to fit a standard M3 size, or for those slacker americans with imperial size.. 1/8th of an Inch... (Incase you don't know, M3 screw will NOT fit in a 1/8" nut etc..)
Regards
Mike
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Gotta love Idol.
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I love old casios.
Have you used a Casio RZ-1 ? I love that thing.. one of the few recent buys that i've found truly inspirational.. it's limitations are it's strengths if you know what i mean?
I picked it up while in Melbourne for a holiday from cash converters.. (For the Aussies)
Regards
Mike
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P.S Sorry Stryd
Look what you've done S1, you've got people running scared even before you say anything.. lol.
As for the power supply, your best is to build one.. assuming you are up for it.
My Sequential TOM drum machine needed a very similar power supply, I think it was 15VAC CT on a 5 or 7 Pin DIN plug..
Do you know what (3) pins the power and ground are connected to? If not, you can probably open the thing up, and see.. one should be connected to a common (Probably ground, but not always...) and the other two will probably go to rectifiers + Caps and then regulators.. It doesn't matter which one of the other two get the AC, because.. it's AC.
You'll have to source the transformer yourself.. don't worry toooo much acout the 750mA, just anything that is 750mA or higher.
You'll need a box for it.. (Obviously..) AND you will need to feel confident working with Mains electricity... DANGER DANGER! If not, get someone who is, or don't do it.
I made my TOM's power supply look like "A snake that ate a brick" style, if you get what I mean.
Hope that helps.
Regards
Mike
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I'm a bit of a whore for old samplers.. hmmmmmm...
I've never been with a FZ10, but I'm sure it's a SILF.
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There are no input jacks on the MB-6582 parts list..
Mine is special..
Regards
Mike
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Ground the audio inputs of the SID's to earth.. this will drop the background noise by about 80%
I put switched inputs on mine, so when nothing is connected, the input is shorted to ground.
That is assuming you are talking about the SID's background noise, and not just pure 60 Hertz (Or 50 Hertz for us Aussies & NZ'ers) which might relate to your power supply / options.
Regards
Mike
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Cool Mixer & good Find.. but I have to jump in and say one thing (nothing personal because I'm guessing English is not your first language)..
In English, it's a "Mixing Desk" or "Desk" or "Console" or "Mixer" or "Mixing Console" ... but never "Table".. Thats what you eat off.. ;]
Kind regards
Mike
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These are awesome! I heard these in the flesh and they do sound pretty special.
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I'd advise against giving something +-15Volts when +-12Volts is required..
But, it'll be a piece of piss to convert a +-15 to +-12.. assuming it has normal boring regulators in it..
Look for the 7815 and the 7915 regulators and swap them with 7812 & 7912's respectively.
Regards
Mike
edit.. and if you can't get inside your power supply or it's not practical, you could use the +12volt & -12volt regulators to drop the +-15 to +-12Volts..
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Do you mean shorting J4 (Audio in) ?
I'm not sure (From memory) which J it is, but yes, the audio input shorted to ground.
When I read this, I thought.. oh.. how much could it drop it, but it drops the background noise HEAPS..
This does depend on what SID you are using, but my 6582's dropped from about 7% noise to about 1% noise.
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If you ground the input to the SID, the background noise will drop even further..
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Do you remember that episode of the Cosby Show when stevie wonder made a guest appearance?
They all went to the studio and he made a track with samples of them with a big old emulator.
That had a big effect on me.. oh.. and Jeff waynes war of the worlds.
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I'm a big fan of LED's that look like their colour when they are not going.. I find that the red ones that are clear are quite hard to see in well lit enviroments, where as red LED's that are encased in red plastic are much easier to see from different angles & lighting conditions.
For the sake of your eyesite, forget about blue, purple .. (Have you ever tried to use the Poly Evolver in the dark... did Dave Smith even try his synth in a dark room?) also forget superbright LED's unless you want to use them as a torch.
Any colour you pick is up to you dude (It's your design after all).. red on red would look cool.. .. yellow or orange could look cool... Green could look at bit christmas time, so I'd probably avoid.
Regards
Mike
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Midi Merge's are handy tools.. welcome aboard.
another thing: would it make a problem if i duplicated out - hardwire another parallel port to existing out?
So you mean, you want to make multiple copies of the same out? This would be done with another buffer.. (Like adding some thru's)
This schematic is for a stand alone 'thru box', so you won't need the opto isolator etc.. just the way the buffer is wired up.. which is a $1 IC.
Regards
Mike
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If you need 3 triggers, spaced to give the clap it's "Crack"..
Maybe you could use a few 555's in one shot mode to provide the triggers their delays? Cascading 2 or 3 of them might do the trick, while also mixing all 3 output pulses together via a simple resistor network.. It might look ugly, but it'll prob work.
You could even then have the delay times (via trimmers) adjustable for your personal preference in claps.. lol.
Then do the whole V-Trig to S-Trig conversion with the output of the 555's.
See 'official' schem to convert a V-trig to S-trig.
Regards
Mike
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I'm pretty sure ebay's HKSS sells those buttons, but cheaper.. (Well I think they are exactly the same)
Do have in mind, that those buttons were generally made for industrial / vandal proof installations, and have quiet a firm action to them.
Regards
Mike
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verry niiice!
It gave me a woody
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Hey there... just 5cents, but if you have a multimeter that can measure frequency, could you measure the freq's of the crystals in circuit?
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Why analog envelopes into AIN? You can just do digital envelopes ;)
does he mean an envelope follower of external signals.. sort of like a mutron envelope filter?
Regards
Mike
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Antarctic ice doesn t go over 1m depth, water covered surface of earth is
whaaaaat? are you saying that the ice in the Antarctic is no more than 1 meter deep? lol.. if so, please point me towards your informed sources..
have you stuck a cube in a glass yet?
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Today i was thinking: the fear for increased sea levels.. isn t the north pole just floating on water? Isn t ice just solid water? What will happen if ice melts?
Nothing, am I mistaken or what?
Well, I guess you could easily do an experiment, put an ice cube in a glass... when it melts, does the level go up or stay the same?
Oh, but I guess that would all be redundant considering that the south pole is ontop of a landmass....
Newbie needs an advice
in MIDIbox SEQ
Posted
Welcome!
I've personally built 2 sequencers, and helped two friends build theirs, and certainly rate it as a sequencer (The real time recording needs a bit of work, but this apparently is fixed up in V4)
I'd just build a V3 sequencer, and wait until the new core is available and then replace it with the newer core when that comes out.. could be tomorrow, could be in 6 months..
Shopping list
3 x DIN - yep
1 x DOUT - Yep
2 x IIC-MIDI (If you want.. this gives you extra outs, useful if you have heaps of stuff that responds only in Midi OMNI mode [old midi stuff].. like a JX3p or a SCI Prophet 600 etc..)
1 x Core
Then, don't forget the other hardware like LCD's , Buttons, LED's & the case etc..
Regards
Mike