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jojjelito

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Posts posted by jojjelito

  1. The Yocto works fine these days. There were some ppl who complaining about the clap sound on early units, but that's been fixed. Plus, the MB-9090 can sequence that too. FWIW, the 1ms MIDI note on delay from the MIDI protocol itself doesn't make things less tight enough to be a problem. Any DAW can do latency compensation. Or, mod it with trigger inputs, it's not that hard.

    Thse days there are 606 replicas too, plus ppl making DIY Linndrum ROM/sample playing boxes. There's lots of alternatives out there. Shuriken has listed the most obvious ones.

    I'd get the Sonic Potions LXR with the trigger expansion too since it's a fun DIY-alternative to a Machine Drum.

  2. The LED sliders look amazing! Each contains a standard 2x3x4mm LED. You can see that they look very nice, for instance in the thread over at Muff Wiggler about the clarke68 Eurorack panel for the Serge Resonant Equalizer from CGS https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=119325&start=all&postdays=0&postorder=asc Plus, you can see some pictures of the NV panel for the Klee sequencer in that thread, or Jon's TTSH Arp 2600 clone all over the internets. So, a crafty person could fit white, blue, green, yellow, amber, red, pink, UV, aqua or whatever color LED in there. Bright Components at Ebay.co.uk has all sorts of colors and LEDs that fit. For tactical reasons I stuck with green, since it follows the LED rings. YMMV, plus it's all up to future builders.

  3. If it's a COG LCD on a sub-PCB it makes sense to remove the EL foil as those things are 100% pure evil. That is, provided you can get a LED-lit LCD instead. If it's connected with the foil cable to the motherboard things are definately more tricky.

     

    I replaced the LCDs of all my old hardware with modern LED-lit LCDs. This let me remove the EL foil from most of the gear - sooner or later they will develop coil whine like the K5000s did, like the Wavestation A/D did... Plus the EL foil goes dim after some years, so that tech is trash. These days modern displays are available, back then things were grim and the LCDs poor compared to today's screens.

     

    Edit: Did some checking here: http://www.yamahaforums.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=4184 and it seems it's a case of EL foil - however, that's mainly talking abvout SY77/TG77/SY99. Replacements used to be available here: http://www.zinguy.com/lcdpage.htm but that's a standard 240x64 LCD with LED backlight and a T6963 controller IC. You can get those from Artronic in Poland, from DigiKey and Mouser if you look at their Newhaven displays, from TME.eu etc. Plus, Ebay and AliExpress vendors. Guess the poor RS7000 needs to be opened and looked at.

  4. This is probably an old school LCD with a T6963C controller and a separate EL foil for backlight. I suggest getting rid of the EL foil and disconnecting the transformer that drives the EL sheet. No more coil whine, better readabilty and more more repairs.

     

    However, I suggest taking measurements of the screen assemblage and checking with some general forum like GearSlutz , or if there's some Yamaha forum where people might know.

  5. I think that what nILS may have referred to is one of the older, standard switching regulators. The new ones that are drop ins for 78/79xx stuff tend to work in the 100s of kHz up to a MHz or so. Those aren't noisy in any bad way. Texas, Traco and Recom make fine parts.

  6. If you want to build something compact you can always use some standard 9mm 10k or 100k linear pots. Those don't eat up too much PCB area. On the other hand, encoders can pick up what the original value of a chosen patch was and go on from there. You might want to use pot takeover to mitigate such effects with pots.

  7. Both the Anushri that had the inchoate version of the generative drums idea and Grids are amazing :) It would be very nice to have those ported over and available for MIDI output and recording. Really looking forward to see those in my MBseq. Actually I'd like all my gear to have it, but if the sequencer does it's more than good enough.

  8. The LEDs are multiplexed, you might have more of a problem with motorfaders.

     

    I hate cable clutter as much as the next guy, but I would add a cheap and cheerful MeanWell switcher to a DAW controller just to be on the safe side. That way you get to connect to 115/230V directly using a normal 3-prong C14 inlet. I'd rather do that than having to use another wall wart.

  9. Hawkeye and I are only using encoders with switches. Makes preset selection fast and painless if we so choose  :yes:

     

    I like the LT1963! I was going to take a little peek at my project notes, plus visit with some local DIY gurus before I commit to any PSU design. I could write lots, but I don't want to expose the reader to a snow job so some research is in order.

  10. The LRE boards with pre-soldered SMD LEDs come with the slight baggage of having the LEDs almost flush with the PCB surface. On the other hand we have to contend with the height of the encoder body as well as that of the OLED sandwich.

    There's a good chance this too might look good, but until someone steps up with something based on those housed under an acrylic sheet we won't know for sure. The 3mm LEDs at least have a bit of lit body that rises up a few mm from the PCB. It could also look cool with rectangular LEDs, but if we used those it's no longer possible to fit the OLED in between. There's always these pesky trade-offs :)

    How about sending an email to fairlightiii? If he's incommunicado we'd have to recreate the whole shebang. FYI - I really really don't like Eagle - its ancient workflow totally frosts my balls. Maybe some recent version is better? :geek:

    Meanwhile, there are some interesting hardware issues to look at, plus mapping the controls for a few synths :frantics:

  11. Yup. Keyed connectors for safety against plugging something in the wrong way are preferable.

     

    2x3 or 1x6 or 1x7 with a gap doesn't matter if the connector sits so that it doesn't make the PCB larger. Keep the 2x3 connector block as it's easier to use with IDC flat cable that way. The only small issue is if someone believes it's an AVR ISP programmer port, but you can't be safe against everything :)

  12. Ahh, gotcha!

    I've never been able to look past the AutoCAD 1980 interface horror of Eagle (well, that's my take on it) to get to those details so far :) I could maybe force myself to learn it, but there are modern alternatives out there that work better for me. If it fits, then by all means use it.

     

    1002-2013-07-11-11-37-15-IMG_1326.JPG.25

     

    Keyed connector:

    4167273762_609f88c0e1_o.jpg

     

    The 2x3 connector block gets keyed too if it sits in a shrouded connector:

    CN-ID-M06_LRG.jpg

  13. That's a very clear layout! Isn't it possible to make it more compact by folding the flex cable so that it wraps around the PCB edge and gets connected on the bottom side of the PCB? Also, to save space it would be possible to use a 1x7 pin row with one pin missing so the the connection gets keyed.

     

    Imagine a board like this, but where the pins are located in a row below the screen and there are no dog ears with mounting holes:

    938-00.jpg

  14. I agree with Hawkeye. This is also a work in progress. Later on we will know more as there's a bit of work just mapping up the controls of various synth engines. :frantics:

    Another totally convenient use case might be support for generic USB keyboards if working with patch names. Or, we'll have to come up with some Xbox/PS3-type of keyboard list. I haven't the foggiest at this stage. Named preset lists for synths with expansion cards? Dunno either. Let's see where this all ends up as it slowly grows. :smile:

    You might argue the case for some special control element like a button bank for preset selection, or the use of absolute mechanical encoders like the nice 16-position Grayhill switch we know from the x0xb0x. It has a normal 4-bit binary output. Or, what about analog stuff like the 45mm LED sliders like those used by the TTSH ARP 2600 DIY clone? Would't they make a great envelope controller or organ drawbars? A bunch of LEDs, or the button/LED matrix from the MB-6582? Lots of synths have mod matrices. This has to be looked at later and can be placed in some box on the side if and when there's a need. I'm totally adding a joystick for that feeling of vectory. It kind of fits the Wavestation A/D and the Prophet VS. Lots of stuff could be mapped to its two axis. Also, inputs for foot pedals and switches would be nice.

    Anything that relies on these special control elements would take away from the generic nature of the MBProgramma. My hope would then be that external hardware elements are also linked to some settings that are shadowed in the normal system of banks and sub bank settings. This way they become shortcuts to various existing settings.

    Well, gotta hit the hay! Have a good one!
    Johan

  15. Nice to hear!

    I can't speak for Hawkeye, but more LEDs and buttons can certainly be added. Some thought is needed -i.e. do we sprinkle them out here and there, or keep them around the lower display/SCS area or somewhere else?

    Obviously we can't make a dedicated controller such as the lovely JD-800 control surface. Another option would be a couple of blocks with 8LEDs and buttons on top/below to cycle up/down as well as a button next to every LED. If this sits on the side of an OLED we can select LFO 1-8, ENV 1-8, Waveforms going into a mixer, A block or blocks of harmonic levels, FM operators...

    However, Hawkeye has a lovely gray Plexiglas/acrylic overlay which it wouldn't be nice to have to scrap. We need to synchronize a little.

    Best,

    Johan

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