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I know this hasn't been posted in for a long time. But I just discovered this thread and I just have to say that this was absolutely one of the best sounding bands I've heard in a long time. Awesome!

I don't want to derail this thread to much, but I'd say that your statement is a pretty strong generalization. For us monkeys wanting to use all of our 8gbs of RAM, and still use Windows, the 64-bit versions of Vista is the only effective way to go really. One could use XP 64-bit but there tends to be less good drivers for that OS. Vista 64-bit sure isn't always that pleasant with its forced driver system and whatnot but for the hardware and purposes I use it for it's still the only effective way to go. However I can agree that Vista compatibility probably isn't the most important thing for MIOS Studio since monkeys like me still are in a minority. I really can't see why it shouldn't work however and I'll give it a test as soon as my Midibox has taken a more assembled form. :D

Nice! You better get it dressed. :D

Parts list? The few components needed are all there in the schematic. I'm a newcomer to these forums too so I know that it can all be a bit overwhelming at first but you should really take time to read up. If you plan on building a Midibox you really will have to be able to read a simple schematic. 1x cap 2200uF/25V 1x cap 2200uF/16V (+ two extra needed for the last pair of sids) 1x cap 100nF 1x cap 330nF 1x 7809 regulator 1x B40C80 diode bridge (hard to find so replace it with four 1N4001 diodes or any other "strong enough" diode bridge) Powerplug connector (from a C64) Powerswitch 2-pole (the one from the C64 works) Sil headers to connect it with. If you want a power-led: 1x 220 Ohm resistor 1x Led+socket (from a C64)

Here I was swearing to myself about missing #6... Wilba you truly are awesome!

My package from artronic just arrived. A 4x20 backlit display. Took me two minutes to get all the way into the package. :D Envelope -> 300 layers of tape -> sturdy cardboard -> bubblewrap -> anti static bag. I haven't got a rig to test the display with yet but it feels solid. Prize was good, delivery quick and packaging excellent.

That is possibly the coolest thing I've seen for a long long time. :)

I can't say anything about replacing it. The reason for it being rated 25V or higher is that there is sort of a golden rule when in comes to electrolytic capacitors. You always want to make sure that your cap can take twice the supply voltage.

I found a bunch of interesting reading material. Sadly I didn't save the links but here are two that at least show the basics (In case anyone else is interested in stuff like this). http://www.electronicrepairguide.com/filter-capacitor-function.html <- This is about as much as I knew when I started but it could be interesting for people wanting to learn the basics. http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_8/2.html <- Another quite nice explanation of filtering. I also borrowed some lecture notes from a friend and those teached me a lot. But drawing any real conclusions is difficult. Changing the 330nF to 470nF will change the cutoff frequency slightly. Without actually testing on the circuit it's almost impossible to calculate if this a good or bad thing. It may add or remove noise all dependent of the rest of the circuit. What really messes things up is that apparently different capacitors with the same capacitance but of different type have different frequency filtering characteristics. The distances in the circuit is also an important factor that is difficult to use in a calculation. The last thing that bothers me is that the C64OPSU design is made for both 50Hz and 60Hz inbound AC. This would "pollute" the circuit with different noise and ripple and therefore different capacitor combinations would be optimal. But the 330nF is there for a reason and it was probably selected using an oscilloscope or something rather than Thorsten just thinking... "what can I use this big bag of 330nF caps for" :D Still I think that it could be possible to get good results with a 220nF or 470nF cap instead. The uncertainties of all other factors make me believe that the difference between 220uF, 330uF, 470uF is smaller than the difference between two different builds of the same circuit using different C64-bricks in different countries with different AC-frequencies. I'm ordering a 330nF cap anyway. ;)

I've been reading up on the optimized psu and only one question remains. Is there a particular reason that the 330nF capacitor is exactly 330nF? As I understand the purpose of the 2200uF cap is to remove large ripple and the 330nF cap filters noise. The reason I'm asking is that I have a bunch of caps at home but no extra 330nF since that isn't as usual as the series "1, 2.2, 4.7, 10, 22, 47...". I figure that one could use another small value cap for noise filtering with the same result (220nf or 470nF). Am I wrong? (Ordering a 330nF wouldn't really be a problem. It's more that I'm genuinely interested in the design.)

Thanks! That electrokit link was new to me. I'll be sure to check it out.

I use an ordinary crocodile clip. Works great. :)

Too bad I missed this one. Still missing the SID needed to get started with my box. I'd love to have one that I know is working since that would give me one less thing to worry about. I put my name up on the reserve list for two but I'm guessing there are no spares left? Any chance that there will be a MEGA-SALE #7 in the future? ;)

Thanks for the quick answers. So the audio in works as I suspected, thanks for clearing that up. Btw not that it matters but by CORE_V3 and SID_V3 I meant the PCB's from Mikes midishop :)

I've been reading up on the MB SID the last week or so and I must say I'm impressed. I've always loved the sound of the SID-chip and this is certainly a DIY-project I would love to try out. I know how to solder and "build stuff" but haven't done it in a long time so I also see it as an opportunity to polish up on that. I'm thinking of going with the most simple setup possible as a start: CORE_V3 + SID_V3 + 1 bankstick I've read as much as possible and really tried to soak it all in but two questions remain: 1. The powersuply. There is a lot of talk about salvaging a C64 PSU. I don't own one but I do have a 15V, 500mA AC PSU. Would this be sufficient for powering both the CORE and SID(6581) by just plugging in the CORE at J1? 2. Audio In. This may sound a bit stupid but what is the function of the audio in? What happens with the inbound audio signal? Bare with me... I'm new to all this. ;)