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Fairlightiii

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Posts posted by Fairlightiii

  1. Chettah MS6 midi controller

    in MIDIbox HUIs

    Posted

    Merci Julien. (je continue en français)

    It seems easy when you read it like this...but it's not impossible that I come back to you for more advices in the future.

    Do you think I should begin now to build my PCB (eagles), it will easiest to test the code with?

    Regards.

  2. Chettah MS6 midi controller

    in MIDIbox HUIs

    Posted · Edited by Fairlightiii

    this seems a nice project, for a so rare synth ..

    IMO, you should have a look at this whole thread :

    From that, you could adapt some code (CC instead of SysEx) blocks

    I've already discovered this beautiful project from jackchaos.

    The two synths share the same Curtis chip CEM3396.

    I own two MS6 but neither of them works (lacking baterry and PSU problem).

    I brought them -a long time ago- to a friend which was suposed to repair them (I am newbie concerning electronic/electricity).

    Yes it is CC instead Sysex so I think it will be easier (no buffer …).

    My programming problem is that I've to know how modify the state of the LED when I push a button (first push: first LED lit (others LEDs turned off) and CC parameter X sent, second push: second LED lit (others LEDs turned off) and CC parameter Y sent, ...).

    Thank you Julien for your interest.

    Regards.

  4. Chettah MS6 midi controller

    in MIDIbox HUIs

    Posted · Edited by Fairlightiii

    Hello the midibox community.

    I plan to make a midi controller for a Cheetah MS6 synth.

    I'll use 48 encoders and 32 buttons as inputs (+2 rotary switches) and 41 LEDrings (10 LEDs bargraph) and 46 LEDs as output.

    I joint the PDF file: big rectangle=bargraph, little rectangle=button, little circle=LED, big circle=encoder (except the 2 top/left for DCO shapes=rotary switch).

    I have 3 questions:

    Does the core can handle the 41 LEDrings (I remember a thread speaking of that but I haven't found it again)?

    Is-it possible to mix ledrings and leds into the same DOUTX4 (I think yes but I must be sure)?

    Is there any possibility to have 9 extra outputs for LEDs than the standard 128 (it is the reason why I use rotary switch: I've replaced button/LED by rotary switch because no more DOUT pin to indicate the state of the parameter)?

    Thank you for your answers.

    Best regards,

    Jérôme.

    MS6 controller.pdf

  5. Cheetah MS6 PSU

    in Miscellaneous

    Posted · Edited by Fairlightiii

    Hi steveeeee.

    Sorry for the late answer but in fact it's not me who try to repair the MS6 but a friend of me because I fell (more exactly I felt at the beginning) myself to newbie in electricity/electronic to touch 230V and I didn't want to break the MS6 more than it was.

    He has few spares times but he should try new transformers before the end of the week.

    As you could see, the transformers I bought are too high so we plan to put them outside the case of the MS6.

    I've also bought another faulty MS6 on ebay which seems to be in best condition than the first one (if we can bring to life the 2 synths…).

    I'll comme back as soon as I have news.

    Jérôme.

  9. Cheetah MS6 PSU

    in Miscellaneous

    Posted · Edited by Fairlightiii

    Thank you Phunk for your answer and your (excelent) explanations.

    It is not so easy to find center tapper transformers but I've finaly found this products (signaltransformer.com):

    14A-20-20:

    Dual Primaries 115-230V / 20VA / Series: 20.0 VCT @ 1.0A / Parallel: 10V @ 2.0A

    14A-20-36:

    Dual Primaries 115-230V / 20VA / Series: 36.0VCT @ 0.56A / Parallel: 18V @ 1.12A

    Is-it possible to confirm this references and the fact I have to connect together Pin 9 and 10 (center tap).

    Polarity.jpg

    Best regards,

    Jérôme.

  11. Cheetah MS6 PSU

    in Miscellaneous

    Posted

    Hello.

    First I'm electronic newbie.

    Second I'm French (poor English).

    I've bought a Cheetah MS6 on Ebay.

    Unfortunately, the 2 PSU transformers are broken.

    I need to replace them but I don't know which ones I have to buy.

    I join the schematic of the PSU.

    Perhaps someone have an idea what "707v" and "909v" mean.

    References are welcome.

    I've just built my smashTV's modules and now I need my little Cheetah work (I plan to use Maad's firmware).

    Thank you.

    Best regards.

    Jérôme.

    MS6_PSU.JPG

  13. -5V instead +5V

    in Testing/Troubleshooting

    Posted · Edited by Fairlightiii

    Thank you for your answers.

    JRock:

    Maybe you have the leads on the PSU switched around backwards.

    I tested with inverted PSU leads and the problem is still there. Also I've read that PSU polarity doesn't matter...

    If that isn't it just switchthe leads on your multimeter around! :laugh:

    I checked the polarity of the leads of the multimeter and it seems OK (com="+" and v_ohm="GND").

    Flemming:

    Please try to check voltage again according to the stuff i quoted from ucapp.de, and let us know if you still get the same result

    I checked the voltage but always -5V, assuming the pin 1 of the IC1 (PIC) is the one at the bottom-left and the pin 1 of the IC2 (6N138) is the one at the top-left when you can read "IC1" and "IC2" in the "right way" (= not upside down) - see the picture – I can't read the first pin of the ICs on SmashTV Core (perhaps under the sockets).

    If you have another idea, let me know...

    Voltage_IC1&IC2.gif

  14. -5V instead +5V

    in Testing/Troubleshooting

    Posted

    Hello everyone.

    Sorry for my bad English (I'm french).

    I've assembled a SmashTV Core R4d kit.

    I've used the tutorial "Assembling_a_MIDIbox_Core.pdf" by Jim Henry.

    In this tutorial before inserting PIC and opto-isolator he advices to measure the voltage between four pairs of pins. He says it should be very close to 5 volts but when I do it I measure -5V instead +5V.

    I'm sure some of you have an idea what is the problem.

    Thank you for your help.

    Jérôme.

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