TK. Posted September 7, 2010 Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 The current situation is still unclear - could you please answer to my questions? Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echopraxia Posted September 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 (edited) Sorry TK. Thanks for taking the time to help out. I have not yet finished wiring the leds yet. I was working on just getting the matrix buttons working. I had the column buttons working right away as they are straight forward. I am still having issues with the 4 row buttons. I was previously trying to figure out if I was wiring the diodes and row buttons correctly. I still have not been able to get the row buttons to work at all. At one point I had two of the four working but I cannot recall why. The behavior was strange and I think it was when I had the row buttons connected to a ground like any other button. I have them connected correctly (I believe) as one striped wire from DIN J8 D1 goes to all four row buttons then from each of the four row buttons to individual diodes (anode) then from the cathode side of the diodes to the respectable DOUT connections without ground wired to any of these aforementioned connections. You can see in the picture I have the DIN wire soldered right to the buttons and the diodes anodes soldered right with it. Maybe I need to wire the DINJ8 D1 to one leg of the button and the diode to the other leg instead of having them both on the same leg? I decided to start wiring the leds and I have row #1 working as it should. I feel confident that I can finish the led wiring but I still won't be able to check it until I get the row buttons working. I am gonna check tonight for maybe some bad IDC connections and triple check for solder problems beyond that I don't know if any one can help me at this point. Edited September 7, 2010 by Echopraxia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echopraxia Posted September 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 (edited) OK I have made SOME progress. I de-soldered all the DOUT cables going to the diodes and when I would strike them up against a diode or the DIN cable, my led matrix would change accordingly to which ever dout cable I hit a diode or Din cable with. I am getting the led matrix to change to the correct row by doing this (I finished wiring the led matrix and it works just fine). So what does this mean exactly? Am I getting a response from the DIN board that is connected to the buttons which are connected to the diodes which are being touched by the DOUT cables? My buttons still do nothing when I solder the dout cable to the diode. So what does this mean about the buttons and DIN? I tried a different DIN board which I had laying around for my old MBSEQ v3 with no luck. What is the easiest way to check the DIN J8 D1 voltage? Its almost like I have the wrong DIN cable connected. And just to confirm this DIN connection is | Shift Register | SR Number |Pin name |Pin Number |Hex Number | | third | 3 | D1 | 17 | 0x11 | Edited September 7, 2010 by Echopraxia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echopraxia Posted September 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 Now just to add to the last two messages :) I was just trying to see if the DIN cable is working. So I took a spare button and ran it to ground and placed the active pin on each of the diodes one at a time and when I would press the button I would get it to go to row 4 every time.And when I press this button I see row 3 light up faintly and go away real quickly while row 4 led is steady. So when I have a button connected to DIN J8 D1 and ground I get a response from my led matrix. so this should at least mena that both my DIN and DOUT boards are working properly now? I am using 1N4148 diodes just to clarify. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted September 7, 2010 Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 At one point I had two of the four working but I cannot recall why. The behavior was strange and I think it was when I had the row buttons connected to a ground like any other button. By connecting ground to a row button, all four button functions will be activated at once... Only the periodic scan realized via DOUT pins ensures that a single button press can be detected. However, on the other hand: if it worked this way, it means that your buttons are (or were) connected correctly, and that the issue is between buttons and DOUT pins. Maybe I need to wire the DINJ8 D1 to one leg of the button and the diode to the other leg instead of having them both on the same leg? Yes, of course! This is the error! Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echopraxia Posted September 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 Maybe I need to wire the DINJ8 D1 to one leg of the button and the diode to the other leg instead of having them both on the same leg? Yes, of course! This is the error! Best Regards, Thorsten. I rewired it so the DIN J8 D1 is wired to one active leg of the button and the diode is connected to the other active leg of the button and still no results. Should I try DIN J8 D1 to active leg and diode to another leg besides the other active leg? i.e ground leg? I can smell the matrix but I just can't see it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted September 7, 2010 Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 Could you please explain what you mean with "active leg"? And why do you mention a "ground leg"? No leg should be connected to ground... Proposal: use the beeper of your multimeter to check your button. You need two contacts of this button. The contacts should be closed (-> BEEEP) when button is pressed, and opened (-> no beep) when button is not pressed Connect one contact to the DIN module (together with the contacts of the other 3 buttons), and one contact to the anode of the diode. Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echopraxia Posted September 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 Could you please explain what you mean with "active leg"? And why do you mention a "ground leg"? No leg should be connected to ground... Active leg: typically on buttons there should be two active pins and two pins for ground right? i.e two active legs and two ground legs. I will have to give the multimeter beep test a shot. I'll check in about 6 hours from now. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janis1279 Posted September 8, 2010 Report Share Posted September 8, 2010 Hi echo, If you have these buttons or similar, you need read more carrefully the note-schematic on the last page ( page 4 ) of the current data sheet . Regards, Janis JTP1230.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echopraxia Posted September 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2010 I have these buttons : B3F-4100 page 6. I checked my connections with the beep test and was getting a beep without even pressing the button. I'm gonna try to swap either the din cable or the diodes to another pin on the buttons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echopraxia Posted September 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2010 that was it! All this time I have been connecting the wrong pins :poke: I have been connecting all of my other buttons with one pin on the top row (by the ground terminal) and the ground to one pin on the bottom row, and they have all worked this way. Oh well what ever. I'm finishing it right this moment and will hopefully be done with this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echopraxia Posted September 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2010 YESSS!!!!! Success!!! Everything is working. You would think after finishing MBSEV4, DIN, DOUT, IIC, banksticks, core8, core32 and sammichSID with over 300 posts on the forum you would think I would know how to wire a switch correctly! :baby: Big thank you to Janis,taximan, nils, sparx and TK that last thought about the beep test and the button diagram made me realize that the switch operates differently than I thought. Once i paint this thing I post some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 finally! :sweat: Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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