Akai DPS12 parts

[Fall_X]

I just remembered I had an old, broken Akai DPS12 (multitrack harddisk recorder). So I decided I'll try disassemble it for parts, which will save me some money. It's got a whole lot of buttons, 13 faders, 18 rotary pots, a rotary dial (like the mpc), and a graphical LCD.

My question is, how easy would it be to desolder the required parts? And will I be able to use the graphical LCD? It's got S-11114B written on the back, not sure if that is of any help.

Thanks!

[Ashiman]

you could check those converters too. They are located near the in-outs suposedly:) Can you make som pictures? Im quite interested bout those.

[Fall_X]

I've attached a couple of photo's from the disassembled DPS-12.

[Ashiman]

# 18 bit 64-times oversampling delta-sigma ADCs

# 20 bit 8-times oversampling, 1 bit delta-sigma DACs

brr

[Fall_X]

Erm... All I basically want to know is if I'll be able to use the LCD, and if I'll be able to desolder and use the pots and buttons without too much hastle (never soldered/desoldered anything, I'm just getting started with all this).

Anyone?

[Sasha]

Fall_X, nobody but you knows will you be able to desolder parts of the board. I advise you to practice on some junk you don`t need. When You build some confidence you can try this Akai board. Bare in mind that too long heating of pins will damage most of the components, especially mechanical. It would bee really shame if it happens. Did you check is those pots linear, and what is their value? Also LCD... graphical displays are supported but it depends of the type of controller. They are not all same.

[Fall_X]

Thanks for your reply.

Fall_X, nobody but you knows will you be able to desolder parts of the board.

Off course... But I mean, is this something really tricky, or is it possible for a newbie to do? I was already planning to try it out on junk before working on the akai board, but thanks for the tip.

Did you check is those pots linear, and what is their value?

Nope, that's why I came here. I'm really really a newbie when it comes to this stuff. How can I check this?

Also LCD... graphical displays are supported but it depends of the type of controller. They are not all same.

Yes, I know... But how can I check whether it will work or not?

I'm sorry if I'm being a pain in the butt :)

[Jidis]

Fall_X,

(not Sasha but I'll try 8)....)

"Trying" the desoldering on junk as you say is indeed a good idea. Getting components off intact is a black art. Different techniques for different stuff. Your real concern will be making a mess and overheating things while you try to free all the pins. The desolder bulbs work, but the spring loaded pump type syringe thing might be better, and you may need some of the desoldering braid to clean things up as well.

On the pots/faders, you should first try to look for a label printed on them. "B" *should* indicate linear (or A for log/audio), along with their resistance value (B10K for example). Beyond that, I guess you'd have to check the resistance with the pot set at different points to figure out if it's close to a 1:1 linear curve or not.

On the LCD, again, some of the IC labeling would probably tell someone here what they were (if they're anything common) along with the number of connections.

Hope that helps,

George (owner of a fancy rework station/desoldering iron that he can no longer get tips for >:( >:( >:()

[TheAncientOne]

The control surface should be no problem - it's single sided. Just use a decent iron and one of those plunger type solder suckers. If you are right handed, it's best to hold the iron in your left hand, let the solder get well melted then suck it off with the remover in your right hand. If you find that the solder doesn't take up the heat easily, using a small dab of fresh solder makes it easier.

You can often 'wiggle' the desoldered pin with a pair of needle nose pliers to make sure it's loose.

The double sided board is another problem: more for experts. I have salvaged motherboard 'jungle' chips the way I'll describe, for a vital repair, but it is a nasty job, and has health risks. If you want to get into this, my recommendation is for a heat gun and practise on a few old motherboards first. Trick is to get the solder on the back 'runny' with the heat gun at close range, than give the board a sharp knock, and watch for the shower of chips. Do it over a protected surface! A heatproof glove, (welders or hot handlers Kevlar) is a good idea. Plenty of ventilation too, the fumes from the hot PCB material are not good.

Hope this helps

Mike