New and improved illuminated button design

[Sasha]

My old 3part illuminated button look very nice, but wiring the LED glued to the button cap to the PCB is not very fun. I thought of very simple solution to have nice, center full surface illumination with fixed LED, soldered on to PCB. I made few test pieces today to check the design. I am very satisfied with the result. This kind of buttons I am going to use on my version of x0xb0x.

So, what do you think?

[ultra]

as a bonus you can wear it as a ring :)

[Sasha]

few more pix

[cimo]

eheh this remembers me of the time when we were all trying to find out a way so that the bent legs of the leds wouldn t break ...

[Sasha]

Yes, it looks just like those tryings, but just little bit different. I really dont know how nobody thought of this before, including myself.  ::)

[DrBunsen]

Ahhhh, so the button moves up and down, but the LED doesn't?

[Sasha]

exactly  :)

[Wilba]

Brilliant design, Sasha!

That is like I have seen in manufactured illuminated switches... the LED is mounted through the switch part and the button cap has protrusions to make contact with the switch actuator.

If the cap is supposed to be glued onto the switch, how do you get the alignment right with panel holes? Do you plan to glue the caps on when the panel is attached to get the alignment right?

[cimo]

That is like I have seen in manufactured illuminated switches... the LED is mounted through the switch part and the button cap has protrusions to make contact with the switch actuator.

*MECwhack*

[Sasha]

If the cap is supposed to be glued onto the switch, how do you get the alignment right with panel holes? Do you plan to glue the caps on when the panel is attached to get the alignment right?

Yes, actuator is glued to the switch, and it is just wide as switch (not case with the one I made for testing) actuator so it is not a problem to position it perfectly. Engraved diffused part can be glued just after it or after panel mounting. I think it is better to do it right after as the length of top part is same length as the actuator, so matching is not problem.

I will try to make some of these actuators with square cut at top for the buttons with square locking "thing" so fixing could be even easier. But for applications where not enough place from the PCB to the panel it is losing of precious space, so it is better to use standard 12x12x4 buttons without square on actuator.

[DrBunsen]

But for applications where not enough place from the PCB to the panel it is losing of precious space

Mount the LEDs sideways?  Use smaller LEDs?

[Sasha]

Mount the LEDs sideways?

Light diffusion is not even.

Use smaller LEDs?

These are 3mm LEDs on the pictures. SMD LEDs can be used when needed even shorter buttons. 

[DrBunsen]

Light diffusion is not even.

With a reflector?

Or even: mount them to the side, pointing towards the switch, with a 45 degree reflector etched into the perspex?

[cimo]

.. superflux!!

http://www.ledtuning.nl/catalog/index.php?cPath=41&osCsid=160ec5738940ca269f283dd252a8208b

[Sasha]

With a reflector?

Or even: mount them to the side, pointing towards the switch, with a 45 degree reflector etched into the perspex?

Or  cast the crystal cap with integrated prism?  ;D

If you make the simpler design with good lighting result I would be glad to make it for testing. OK?

[Sasha]

.. superflux!!

http://www.ledtuning.nl/catalog/index.php?cPath=41&osCsid=160ec5738940ca269f283dd252a8208b

Yes, with these LEDs you dont  anything than nontransparent walls around each button, so light can`t run away and illuminate what you dont want to.

But these LEDs seams perfect for panel illumination.

[Echopraxia]

I noticed last time you made buttons you used white paint for buttons. Did black come out better? Which one is easier to read in the dark and in light? Again what mcd brightness is best whith these buttons for operation in the dark were you go ooooo :o :o :o?

[Sasha]

I noticed last time you made buttons you used white paint for buttons. Did black come out better? Which one is easier to read in the dark and in light?

I chose white because I like it to be that way. It was easy to read it in normal light conditions. When there is no enough light small letters are all more less hard to read. Only full time back illumination helps in low light situations. Some lamp is always necessary above the gear in dark clubs. I have a dream to make fully backlit panel for a long time but never had chance to buy special back side engraving material that should be suitable for that use. It is textured scratch resistant plastic, but I`m not sure how fine labels will bee because of that textured surface.

[stryd_one]

Which one is easier to read in the dark and in light?

Get yourself some NVIS paint ;)