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Blatboy

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Posts posted by Blatboy

  1. I'm trying to figure out what this part is... I can't seem to figure out what it would be called when searching for it on Mouser or Jameco. Any suggestions for terms to look for or perhaps a link?

    Thanks.

  2. Mmmmmm. Just recently opened my old RX17 to switch out the backup battery, and took a big hit o' that 80's polymer funk.

    The early 90's thing has a vibe too... I opened up a Mac Classic II for the first time recently and got a smell that reminded me of library back in my college days, mixed with old electronics. Kind of sick, didn't seem healthy, yet loved every second of it... kind of like most the things I'm into... ;)

    I've got a "new" PSU on the way (thanks Altitude) and I'll be able to get this tested and built. Next, I'll either do a mod like Altitude's or I'll build a PSU. Thanks for your support.

  3. Yeah, I thought about that option too. Wind is out of my sails now and not feeling confident enough to build it... if I can't even test it without frying it.

    I do have a friend that I think will be willing to look over my shoulder if I go that route. I could start work on the control surface while waiting for parts to come in... hmmmm.

  4. Well, in my attempts at being overly cautious, yet clumsy, I'm pretty sure I fried my PSU.

    I was testing the voltages on the pins of the PSU, thinking I needed to make sure there was no issue with the PSU before hooking it up to my PCB. I think I must of slipped. At one point I heard a tiny little pop, but it was very tiny and I didn't think anything of it. I suppose it was enough of a pop that I realized I didn't know what I was doing well enough to try testing the PSU directly, though I thought I had covered all my bases.

    I went ahead and tried the PSU with my PCB. Ok, not too smart after what had just happened, but at least the PCB wasn't hurt. The 5V rail looked fine. The 9V rail barely had a volt or two on it. I hooked the PSU back up on my C64 and sure enough, the power light came on, but it didn't have the juice to drive video.

    *sigh*

    I see three options:

    1. My PSU doesn't seem to have screws, but I could try to crack this thing open and see if it's a simple fuse replacement (if it was a blown fuse, I shouldn't get ANYTHING on the 9V rail though, correct?)

    2. Buy a "new" PSU (I'll be doing this anyway if I want to run my old C64 again :cry: )

    3. Try to run the entire thing off a 15V PSU using like Altitude explained on
    thread. I like this idea, and was planning on doing it once I got my MB-6582 working w/the C64 PSU. But, since I have no PSU to test with right now I'm not even 100% sure everything is set up correctly on the PSU. (I feel pretty confident that it is... everything that I've tested checks out and I've double and triple checked my connections)

    Any thoughts from ye exalted enlightened ones? It would be much appreciated.

    I know I've been posting a lot here... please pardon my noob-ulant exuberance.

    Thanks,

    Blatboy

  5. Ok. Now I'm probably pushing it, but I'll push it.

    In my collection of power supplies, I found one from an old Jaz drive. It has DC outputs on 5V/1A and 12V/.75A rails. It's not a grounded plug. Would it be a workable solution to use this? Is that enough ampage? I wouldn't even need regulators on the board, would I? Would that me a safer solution than the C64 brick?

  6. Or would you just split the juice coming in from a 15V DC supply, and use both a PT78ST105 and a PT78ST112? Probably not, as that would split the current too, and 500mA (assuming a 1A supply) prob wouldn't be enough, right? Plus, I'm not sure there would be room for two of those big regulators on the board...

    Brain working hard on new concepts... sorry for thinking out loud...

  7. This is pretty darn awesome.

    Would the wiring you did change for a type B PS section? (Mine will use 5V and 12V)

    In my brain it would seem you would need more than one input, like the C64 brick does, for multiple voltage rails. Of course, I'm somewhat new so I may be thinking this completely wrong.

    Thanks

  8. I certainly won't be doing heat shrink on this one... This is my first MB (not my first electronics project tho) and I'm not going to be adding too many variables to my game. I'll be happy with a solid working box. (That looks swell on the outside at least...)

    This being said, I do have access to a nice heat gun in my basement, so I may try colored heat shrink on my next batch of audio cables I make.

    One more resistor question:

    Regarding the "not required" 1.2K resistors R9_CORE2, 3 and 4: What would be a reason for putting them in? They weren't included with SmashTV's set, so I feel pretty safe in leaving them out. However, there wouldn't be places for them on the PCB without a reason, correct?

    I should be able to put some in after I install the IC sockets, but once those chips go in, I'm probably not going to want to dig in there again if there is a reason to put them in...

    Thoughts?

  9. Nebula,

    Thanks so much. You rock. I totally get it now.

    Interesting that on that one photo it seems they used heat shrink on the leads to lower the chances of short circuit in the really crowded situations.

    I'll stand those resistors up...though I am tempted to go to a local electronics store today just in case it's the type of thing they would have in stock. Are mini-resistors common enough to be in a Radio Shack (I live in NYC, so there are more options than just RS) or is it the type of thing that would only be available online?

  10. Greetings. I received my mb-6582 base pcb kit from smashtv a couple weeks back, and have finally gotten a chance to get started. Am hoping to get this done in time for a concert ive got booked in late may. This being said, I'm no expert yet at these builds, and I'm not gonna rush things too much as I'm hoping it'll actually work.

    This being said, I do have a quick question regarding the base pcb.

    10K resistors R3_SID1 and R23_SID1 (actually for all four Sid modules) seem to have very little room between the holes for the leads. If I try to put them in, it's seems they will block the entrance for J2_SID1 or potentially short w another component. Or is a situation where I just twist it in a way that avoids all these things? Perhaps I'm doing something really stupid here so I thought I would chime in before I soldered them in...

    Thanks!

  11. I love your front panel design! How did you export the manga to HGPL? I have an image (ok, my avatar you see here) that I'd like to try to put on my front panel... Right now it's in .tiff format.. No color obviously, just a black and white image. What do you recommend?

    Thanks!

  12. First of all, thanks so much to Hawkeye for putting this together. My mind is completely blown. I will build this. I'm a bit of a noob, but not completely inexperienced, and have already done some less involved projects/kits.

    I'm unsure if I'll end up using the PT-10, as I'm thinking about using an old c64 case for an enclosure. I saw a picture of one here somewhere and I like the idea of keeping a non working 64 from a landfill, plus I'm hoping to get one with a working power supply. We'll see though... The PT-10 setup is pretty damn sexy...

    I'm assuming that if I did use an old c64 case, that I could still use the basics of this tutorial, yes? Obviously anything involving the case would change, and I'd probably have to do some tooling on the back of the C64 case for the back panel. I'm on the fence here..

    Anyway, thanks again Hawkeye.

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