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About ilmenator

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    MIDIbox Guru
  • Birthday July 01

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Kölle, Germany

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  1. MIDI over Bluetooth with ESP32

    Nice to see some new playground projects coming along! And more than useful, I think this could be a crucial extension which could bring new life to the community! I'm excited!
  2. Taster TL1100 gesucht

    Kein Problem, ich packe dir noch zwei Taster und zwei Kappen zur TPD-Platine dazu. Kannst du mir dann bitte noch 2€ "nachschieben"? Viele Grüße, ilmenator
  3. MIDIbox SCE

    Let's put it this way: it is still on my to do list, but this list has not become any shorter in the last years... In the meantime, and if you're in a hurry, you might want to check out the WaveRex card, which does many things the MIDIbox SCE would be able to do (plus some more, but then again not everything ;-)).
  4. Mbox SID LCD "freezing" because of Bankstick?

    Great that you soved it!
  5. Mbox SID LCD "freezing" because of Bankstick?

    I guess the easiest solution would be to put in the other six missing banksticks!? At least on my MBSID that seems to work just fine...
  6. Yes, but that's all theory, grab a multimeter to check continuity between the pins and you'll know what is going on on your board!
  7. It is pin 9 to 14 as in the schematic. If you measure anything else on your PCB, you have found a problem!
  8. Hi, I'm not sure I totally understand what you are doing but I'll try to help. 1) The four duo-color LEDs associated with the four buttons on the TPD are not supposed to do anything in the standard setup. You will need to assign them to some functionality in the setup file to make them work (under "LED assignments to DOUT pins"). 2) It seems you are trying to extend the DOUT chain beyond the TPD, is that right? That should work if you have your hardware right, but you'll have to get the SR numbering right as well. Check which SR the above mentioned LEDs are connected to. The next DOUT in the chain has an SR number that is one higher than that of the above mentioned LEDs. If that's not what you are trying to do please let me know!
  9. Yay, Vegas Mode is already implemented!
  10. BLM pcb / parts cost

    Hi otropom, take a look at the WIKI, PCBs are still available as well as complete kits. There is a BOM that lets you estimate the total cost, depending mainly on the switches you want to use.  Best, ilmenator
  11. pre-programmed PIC 18F4685 for sale

    For the FM a PIC18F452 is the standard option - I can provide that as well, still have some of those around I think. To the US shipping will be 7€ including tracking. It's cheaper (4,70€) if you don't want tracking, but I'm not sure I would recommend that...
  12. I have a number of pre-programmed PIC 18F4685 for sale, already flashed with the latest MIOS. I recently flashed them to help out a fellow MIDIbox community member building an MBSID, but who is not responding to PMs anymore... Shoot me a PM if interested, asking price is 7,50€ (what I payed) per piece plus shipping. I am located in Germany. Regards, ilmenator
  13. midiphy SEQ v4+

    I can confirm enveevee's observation. Those grey 3M connectors are a very loose fit, causing the tight cables to slip off the pin headers when trying to mount the case. I had to redo this a number of times and ended up Behringer-style: hot-glueing the whole thing.
  14. Troubleshooting midiphy SEQ v4+

    You can just tear these cables apart - if you have a 34wire one, that will give you three 10wire ones (plus a remainder).
  15. midiphy SEQ v4+

    This indicates wrong handling of self-tapping screws. (Even when inserting these the first time, usually no metal is sheared off.) When re-inserting the screws, metal shavings indicate that you have tried to cut new threads, which is bad because after the second or third time you will have basically ruined the thread or the screw (or both) and the case will no longer hold together. Therefore, to avoid this , you need to do the following: when putting the case back together, insert the screw loosely and turn it counterclockwise with the screwdriver until it sinks down into the thread (!) - only then start driving in the screw with a clockwise rotation. You'll notice that the screw moves without much resistance, as it does not cut a new thread but just enters the existing one. Now you only need to make sure not to overtighten the screw and you're good. No metal shavings and no problems even after opening up the case many times...