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uclaros

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Everything posted by uclaros

  1. Maybe even a Stereo Image with 2 displays and 3d glasses! What do you think?? Â ::)
  2. uclaros

    My design

    Oh yes! Faders! don't go for the plastic crap ones that cost about a euro(here in greece). I suggest using the metal cased ones although their price is about triple!..Their feeling is great!
  3. uclaros

    1st midi box

    you can build a MIDI merger too to merge even more mdi signals. For your first, small project, use pots since you'll not need more boards. for a bigger one go for encoders if you can find in a good price!(64 are quite a few!)
  4. uclaros

    1st midi box

    I'd say go for a full midibox. build a core w/ lcd. din-dout will not be needed if programmed with vmidibox. I think you can connect the 8 pots without using an AIN. In this way, you'll keep the core to use it for your fuul size midibox!(you definitely are going to build one after you play one hour with those 8 pots!)
  5. uclaros

    My design

    Hi durak! Nice panel you draw there, BUT I'm not sure that the automations you'll want to record on REASON will be on the mixer! I mean, you should think about making the layout of your favourite instruments in reason , like the filters or envelopes of subtraktor or malstrom... Expensive parts are the lcd about 20-30 euros, each pot I'd say 0,3 , less for the buttons... caps for the pots could be another 0,3-0,5 each.. prices for the pcb you can find at smash-tv's... all those very roughly... uclaros
  6. Hi again, since I'm a happy Line6 user too (PODv2) I needed a floorboard. I have modified Thorsten's code for a usefull POD floorboard. Check this older topic! http://www.midibox.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=concepts;action=display;num=1068403072 Uclaros
  7. MIOS supports encoders and you can use up to 64 with the MB64E application. no special kind of encoders needed. I you want both encoders and pots you should wait for Midibox NG or for someone to enhance the mb64 code.
  8. Hi, You shouldn't have a problem as long as it is the 20MHz one. But only for the floorboard, not for midibox. what are you going to use it for?
  9. 2. You can arrange later witch dout register corresponds to each din register. this means that you can assign each group of 8 leds to a group af 8 buttons. 1. Not sure what you should see exactly. connect the menu buttons and you'll be pretty sure everything is ok!
  10. Yep! The 16f84A is programmed ok! So does the 12c508a (very nice little pic! also used on PS2cracks)
  11. You'll need four buttons to navigate through the menus on MB64v2,MB64E. Unless you're planning to use your own mios application, you deffinitely want those 4 buttons! Ps. TK is planning to add a feature for an encoder instead of the "left" and "right" menu buttons. I think it'll be very functional. consider buying another encoder instead of those 2 buttons!
  12. TK did it once again! This way it DOES work! just enable MIDI Leds! no reason to fiddle around with MAX Nat! Now cubase mixer is working perfectly both with mouse and midibox! Thanks for the feature too Thorsten! Ps.this doesn't mean I'm not starting with the mackie clone! ;D
  13. Interesting Nat! But what is MAX?? This could be solved if the PC sent back anything it recieved.. but maybe it produces loops...
  14. where do you live william? Many people here could, but it would be easier for someone near you!
  15. Yep! cubase transmits only the onscreen clicks! I've got the same problem too! I wanted to controll mutes+solos in cubase both with MB and mouse but I cant.... so, I'm starting the boards for a mackie clone!!!!
  16. Without midi leds option (dout SR -> din SR) :Leds light when button is pushed. *default* With midi leds (and dout SR ->midi status rec.): Leds light when the apropriate buttons assigned CC is recieved via MIDI..
  17. What you're asking for is the Midi Leds option found on vmidibox. Enable this, and istead of assigning each dout shift register to the apropriate DIN SR, assign it to the MIDI Status rec. for Entry #s you want. Then assign your buttons to controllers that the software leds are sending. Voila! (It should work!) PS. On the 16f firmwares the midi leds function works only on the default internal bank. no banksticks. on 18f it works anywere!
  18. Hi all! Just learning assembly and making my first "from scratch" code. I'm building a UTP cable tester on a 16f84a and want to make it battery powered. if i use a 9v battery with a 7805 will it be a lot of wasted battery power on the 7805? Is it better to use 4 AA 1.5v batteries?(I dont like the idea of 4 batteries!) The power consumption of the project is low (16 leds, lighting up only 2 at a time) Maybe I could use the 16lf84 that works on 2 volts and operate it with 2 AAs. But then is it ok for the leds? Any advice is apreciated! Thanks, uclaros
  19. Sure thing TK, but not right now, since my cheap midi keyboard sends only on channel 1.
  20. Hi all, I was at a friend the weekend and had my MB64v2 to jam with Reason2. Our setup was [his velocity-sensitive keyborad's out]-[MB64 in] [MB64 out]-[PC-Midi In] with midi-merger enabled and the Keyboard sending to channel 16. The problem was that (at least on reason2, i couldn't install midiox cos we needed that stupid windows-installer!) the keyboard sent note-on commands correctly but instead of note-off it sent again note-on, letting notes ring! The MB64 sent correctly note-on-off events. After resetting the keyboard to transmit on channel 1, the problem was solved! Could this be a fault of the midi-merger? I didn't have the time to reproduce the problem... bye, uclaros.
  21. I was wondering how is this function working in eagle that fills the spaces of the pcb with the ground signal when you hit the ratsnest button.. Couldn't figure out how to do it in my boards. Bye, uclaros.
  22. sometimes the mistake is much simpler and way much more STUPID!!! I once placed the PIC wrong! (pin 2 was where pin1 should be!) so 2 pins where on the air! It took me hours to find out what I had done and felt really stupid! (btw, the pic was not blown and it works fine now!)
  23. Hi, there's no need for layers, you can have two buttons that will change the bank on a bankstick! One for increment and one for decrement. Now, showing the active bank may be a little problem, but simpler than layers!
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