uclaros

Could someone describe what kind of tape exactly should be used? I guess not the plastic one used for electronics because it will melt. So , the one that's like paper?

The circuit uses 2 adc from crystal, cs5331 but those are stereo! The drivers handle those inputs not as 2 stereo but as 4 mono ASIO inputs. In Cubase, u can select any of them as VST inputs!! As for the board, I'm not experienced, I've made a couple of boards using Eagle software..Are u more experienced in designing PCB?

If u search the KX driver site and the APS driver site , you'll find drivers for linux. (I 'm sure I saw them somewhere but don't remember their name...) I'll try to design a board for the circuit.. If i've gor something, I'll post it here! PS. With this, you'll have 4 individual inputs (mono) , and not like the mic in/cd/aux/line in , that are in fact the same input! I believe that they can record simultaneously!

Hi all! I'm sure there are some other people here with a cheap sblive on their machines!... After using the KX drivers (http://www.kxproject.com/), I realized this card is more than it seems to be!.. Except the fact that I can get latencies about 5.33 ms, the card has 2 unused stereo inputs! So, I found a schematic of a simple ADC that enables u to use those four mono inputs! For anyone interested, http://alive.singnet.com.sg/musician/aps-rewiring/ Hope that someone else finds this interesting except me! Bye! Uclaros.

Why not making the jdm on a PCB?? It's a good start to building your own pcbs and covers all your needs for MBHP programming and evn more I believe!

Hi Iain! My opinion is you should definetly build a JDM!! It's a very simple but powerfull circuit! As a beginer, you'll gain some experience points to your next level!

Thanks once again TK! Now it all make sense and work! Except one thing: I use one row of buttons to control 'mute' on cubase and I've assigned a row of midi leds to them. Having setuped the generic remote to transmit values on 'mute' , when I mute a track with the mouse, the led lights up!! (huray!) and turns off when i unmute it! BUT, when I mute it with the button assigned, although the track is muted,the light doesn't change state! And the question is Is this normal?? Thanks, Uclaros

Hi all I finished my mb64 and now trying to configure it. Everything works and makes sense except the MIDI LED thingy.... when I set midi leds to ON and route a DOUT shiftregister to a midi status rec for some entry, the first led of the shiftregister stays allways lit! Pressing the appropriate button it sends correct values (I use Controller changes either on-of, on, or toggle) but the leds do not change (the first lit, the others off). When I send values via MIDI-OX, nothing changes too... With MIDI leds disabled, the leds work OK... I am using a bankstick , firmware 1.01 and vmidibox 1.01c Any Info about that? by reading the "howto dout" topic I didnt findout smthng... Thanks, Uclaros 8)

Thanks for your reply TK, but I don't think the problem is caused by MIDI-Ox because I get the same error when I connect both midi in and midi out to my POD-guitar amp modeler. The problem is definetly on the core module since after swapping it with another everything is ok! Furthermore, if I conect only MB's midi out to the pc I get those wierd Fx midi messages after every single other one transmitted! Since everything works now, I have all the time I need to debug this myself! Thnks again!

And probably logarithmic too...

I use XP pro and win98se for audio.. The win98se stays just for the APSlive drivers for the live5.1! And of course because I can't think of my PC not being able to boot from DOS and play favorite old games like sensible soccer etc! I also have a partition with mandrake 9 but not using it for audio...

I am a cheapo too! Live 5.1 with APSlive drivers for Win98 I can get a latency below 10ms. I've got the KX drivers for the XP but haven't tried them yet!

Although it's clear on the main site, you'll need a core, 2 Ains for 64 pots , one Dinx4 and one Doutx4 for 32 buttons w/ leds. Without the LCD you will only save for the LCD's money. I sugest you use an LCD since it's very usefull for testing and debugging ...

Ok again, I swaped the core with my 18f one and works perfectly! Now I 've got to see what's wrong with the first core....

Ok, I unpluged the input cable from the MB so it only sends data. What I realized is that when a pot is moved , MB sends pretty random data. It's not totaly random , because every second command is an FF or F8 or something else starting with F! Any Ideas?

I've just finished my midibox 32pots/32buttons w/ midibox64 f/w and it seems to work like a charm! All pots say 0-127 , buttons working, lcd ok, bankstick can be read -formated-written, midi out led lights. BUT when I plug it on my PC with MIDIOX and move a pot or button I get MIDI TIME OUT! WHATS UP?? I get the same after sending a few midi commands to the midibox too! The same error I get if I plug the MB on my POD2 so it's not my PC faulty... Midiox's monitor shows that it recieves one or two events followed by a F8 :timing clock or FC :stop , just before the crash ( some other times it's a FD :undefined or FF :system reset) Can somebody help me before I start building a new Core?? Thanks in advance! uclaros

One advantage of metal against wood is that being thin , you can mount your pots and buttons on it. I'm building an MDF casing for a frontpanel made of 1mm aluminium. Aluminium is very easily drilled with a powerdrill. Drawback is that it is too thin and flexible (1mm) and is probably harder to find thicker ones. From my experience: build your first panel without great expectations in order to locate the points where you should take special care when building your second. much better looking panel!

One advantage of metal against wood is that being thin , you can mount your pots and buttons on it. I'm building an MDF casing for a frontpanel made of 1mm aluminium. Aluminium is very easily drilled with a powerdrill. Drawback is that it is too thin and flexible (1mm) and is probably harder to find thicker ones. From my experience: build your first panel without great expectations in order to locate the points where you should take special care when building your second. much better looking panel!

if it looks greek to you, maybe me or some other greek pupil may help ;D

if it looks greek to you, maybe me or some other greek pupil may help ;D

I remember way back on windows 3.1 there was a macro recorder! Maybe something like this could help you!! Â ;D

I remember way back on windows 3.1 there was a macro recorder! Maybe something like this could help you!! Â ;D

Hi to all who whant a Cheepo solution for their front panel! You can get very good fader slots with little effort if you are carefull enough! I 've cut 8 fader slots on 1mm alluminium by using the wheel that cuts aluminium (can't find the english word ;D ) of a local aluminium worker. Maybe you can get the same result by using the "metal-cutting-wheel-addon-to-pistoldrills" :o I just read what I wrote and didn't understand a tihng!!! greek-to-english translation doesn't work well for tools! I'll send a few pics to explain better!!

Hi cjlargear! 1) I agree with pay_c! 2) In greece you can find basically 2 ypes of faders. Plastic ones for about 1.3euro and metallic ones for about 3 euros. The metallic ones are sliding so smooth you'll want to use them all day. I have used plastic ones for my MBHP but haven't tested them yet since there is a lot of wiring left to do... Check "contribution in greece" forum to see where you can buy them! Sthn athina exei o FANOS panw apo thn plateia kanigos.

Hi cjlargear! 1) I agree with pay_c! 2) In greece you can find basically 2 ypes of faders. Plastic ones for about 1.3euro and metallic ones for about 3 euros. The metallic ones are sliding so smooth you'll want to use them all day. I have used plastic ones for my MBHP but haven't tested them yet since there is a lot of wiring left to do... Check "contribution in greece" forum to see where you can buy them! Sthn athina exei o FANOS panw apo thn plateia kanigos.