Rowan

Hi Tim Thanks for the hint. I've just downloaded it. I'll have a look when my powerbook arrives. I also found an app called "PCBwarrior", Has anyone used this app? Regards Rowan

Hi all I'm getting a mac soon, and I'm looking for freeware PCB software. I've been using Eagle on Windows up 'til now. Alas no OSX version. So I'm looking for an alternitive. Any suggestions? Regards Rowan

Hi Here is a simple idea which would I think would be great in MIOS. This idea requires encoders with an intergerted push button. When the user turns the encoder WITHOUT the button pressed, the values will step in values of +/- 1 (or another value set by the user). When the user turns the encoder WITH the button pressed the values step at +/- 8 (or other value if the user wants). I got this idea from Prinston Digital's new reverb unit (see Sound on Sound, May 2004 review for more info) I don't have the programming skills to implement this, so I hope one of you will take this on. I see this as a great improvement in the usablity of a MB, which I'm very interested in. Regards Rowan

Hi Here is a simple idea which would I think would be great in MIOS. This idea requires encoders with an intergerted push button. When the user turns the encoder WITHOUT the button pressed, the values will step in values of +/- 1 (or another value set by the user). When the user turns the encoder WITH the button pressed the values step at +/- 8 (or other value if the user wants). I got this idea from Prinston Digital's new reverb unit (see Sound on Sound, May 2004 review for more info) I don't have the programming skills to implement this, so I hope one of you will take this on. I see this as a great improvement in the usablity of a MB, which I'm very interested in. Regards Rowan

Hi Take a look at this http://www.tippach.net/asio4all This is a universal ASIO driver for PC's onboard sound. And it's free!!!!! enjoy ridiculously low latency Rowan

Hi You have a very good point Thorsten. I do agree with you. When I first considered doing this I mainly had those who live on the Pacific Rim in mind. The shipping from Europe to the pacific is just as expensive as the shipping from the Pacific too Europe. So to me it makes more sence to buy from Europe if you live in Europe, and to buy from the Pacific if you live in the Pacific. Encoders are VERY expensive in the shops in NZ (and OZ too I suspect), so I need another way to get them. Shipping costs from China are less than from Europe. I stated that the encoders would be about 1euro each. They will NOT be anymore, most likely much less. Regards Rowan

HI @xt-rem: I don't know the german word for d-shaft/toothed. A d-shaft is in the shape of a "D" when you look straight down on to the shaft, and use a grub screw to hold the knob on to the encoder. A toothed shaft has lots of little bumps around the diameter of the shaft. The knob pushes on to the encoder shaft. We are at around 330 at the moment. Keep the interest up and we will have some good cheap encoders soon. Regards Rowan

Hi @phattline: The 11mm encoder just have a smaller case, the shaft is the same. It looks like most people want the cheaper ones (16mm). I'm in New Zealand. Regards Rowan

Hi When we get to 500 hundred I'll order some. I expect they will be ABOUT 1 euro each (not including shipping) for the 16mm encoderd after I have covered the shipping and importing taxes. Regards Rowan

Hi Good to see some interest. @Phattline: The 16mm encoder is, approx 16mm x 16mm square. I've been using 11mm encoders untill now, but i'm going to switch to 16mm because of the price difference. Because of the need for knobs and space between encoders 16mm should be fine. I wouldn't want encoders any closer than 16mm together Another note: I can only get 11mm encoders with pushbutton, these are twice the price Regards Rowan

Hi I looking at doing a bulk order of encoders. I have to order these by the thousand so I need to ensure that I can get rid of the encoders which I'm not going to use. What I'de like to know is: 1/ How many people want to buy encoders? 2/ How many encoders do you want? 3/ 16mm or 11mm encoders (16mm encoders are about half the price)? 4/ D shaft or toothed? 5/ intergreated pushbutton or not? 6/ approx shaft length? These encoders are from the same manufactur as the ones which TK is currently recommending. I should be able to get the exact same model for less. This is still just an idea, but I have layed all the ground work and can order them when ever. As stated above I have to order by the thousand, so i'll need a lot of interest to warrant doing it. If you are interested post what you would like and we will see if we can come to a common encoder spec that we are all happy with and the best price you'll find anywhere for small volumes. Regards Rowan

Hi I am currently in the process of doing a bulk order directly form the manufacture of these encoders. @TK, do you have the manufacter's part number? I'll see what price I can get them for, I should be able to pass them on for 20% less. I've recived samples of the 16mm encoders which are about half the price of the 11mm encoders. These are quality encoders which have a good "feel". I prefer the movment of these over the Phiper encoders I have been using until now and cost about 10 times less. @uclaros; i'll pull one to bits to see if the dent can be removed. I have to order these encoders by the thousand, so I need to know that people will want them. I'll start another thread to poll what people want. Regards Rowan

Hi I'm in Parnell. small world. As far as I know you won't damage anything by connecting a GTR directly into the line in on your card. There will be two problems that come to mind. 1/ Your soundcard's line ins won't have enough gain. 2/ The output impeadance of the pick-ups will be MUCH higher that the input of your soundcard's line ins. Because of this most of the power will be developed in the pick-ups themselevs, not the inputs of your soundcard. This will cause a very weak signal "seen" by you card. Good thing about a DI is that it will balance the signal and isolate the earth of the GTR which should reduce noise Rowan

Hi A useful little programe called "Bome's midi translater" can turn MIDI data into key commands and map any kind of midi data to another http://bome.com/midi/translator/ May be of some help Rowan

Hi Prices start at $65, not as cheap as I thought. later Rowan

Hi LO I could get you one at wholesale price, which will probably cost you less than building one. Let me you if you like me to look into it for you. (I'm in central auckland) Rowan

Hi All Here is a link to a site which is very interesting. All MIDIboxers should find this useful when planning their next project http://www.useit.com/papers/heuristic/ most importantly http://www.useit.com/papers/heuristic/heuristic_list.html I hope someone finds this useful. Rowan

Hi I found this for sale on the Web. Someone may want it. http://www.trademe.co.nz/mcat-0343%2D0892%2D/0343-0892-1119-1326-/auction-10020948.htm Rowan

Hi The Captain is right. If pins 2 -> 5 and 7 -> 10 of the PIC ( J 5 of the core module) do not have a input voltage which is referenced to ground ( i.e. AIN module, direct connection to ground, or other device) the PIC will sample the random voltage (read noise) caused by atmospheric conditions. This voltage is translated by the ADC's of the PIC and MIOS into random MIDI data. It's a good sign to see this data when you start because it shows you that the PIC has been programed and the MIDI ports are working. Untill you add AIN modules to your core (due to the MB64 MIOS application) you must short pins 2 -> 5 and 7 -> 10 of the PIC to ground. Rowan

Hi Here is how I did this on my MB64. Each channel on the MB has a "select" button, and I've made a separate EQ section with 12 pots and 4 buttons (And 8 Aux send pots, and 8 insert on/off buttons), the buttons turn each band on/off. I've assigned differnt MIDI CC's to each pot and note on/off to the buttons. this is all the configuration which is required within the MB. All of the rest is done within the "generic remote" setup in Cubase SX. I've assigned each on the "select" buttons to select a track in Cubase. When I press the select button, the corrosponding track is highlighted in cubase. Now in the generic remote the pot's/encodes to EQ band you want. Here is the trick, Instead of assigning that pot to a specific track, assign it to "selected" in the "generic remote setup" in cubase. This way which ever track is high-lighted the pot will control the assigned band. It's that easy, no messing round with MIOS code. If this is unclear let me know and I'll write a little example. I hope that make life a little simpler. I sugest you open up the remote set up window and have a good look around you even start to build your MB. There are alot of clever things thing that can be done in this window. you can save alot of knobs/buttons if you are familar with what is possible with the "generic remote" in Cubase. Rowan

On the linux/audio tip, There are some very interesting developments happening at the moment with respect to linux and audio. ICRAM in france in co-operation with others are developing a linux distribution written just for audio. At this stage it is at about version 0.9 so the first offical realase is not far away. The intension is to provide a one stop OS and apps for audio professional's which can be compleatly customised to the users needs. I'm very excited about this. Check out the details and downloads: www.agnula.org Till next time Rowan

Hi I was lucky enough to be given a faulty Fostex VM200 digital mixer that the local fostex distributer could not repair, which I am considering turing into a MB. It's got all the hardware: 9 x 60mm Alps Motor faders 57 x Buttons (44 of which are illuminated) 12 x encoders 10 x pots 2 x 9 segment LED meters 1 x Jog wheel 1 x Graphic LCD (about 64 x 192) Power supply etc. and a very nice case. All I need to do is rip the "guts" out of it and add the nesaccary MBHP modules. I'm going to have to think pretty hard before I destroy the Mixer. I already own 1 working VM200 which I use often, I can't decide if I really need another mixer or another MB. I've got my SID working well now. All the nasty hums and buzzes are now low enough in level to be usable. Sounds great. If the unit was a little quiter I would say it is as good as my Waldorf Pulse (Sound and programablity). It will compelment my Analog mono synths well as none have HPF's (I produce D'n'B, so HPF is VERY inportant in my mind). It's currently living in a small cheap looking ABS plastic case, which will be replaced with a Aluminium 19" rack case when I have a chance. This sid was built with the mirriored PCB's that I made. by mounting all the IC on the track side it worked fine. Till next time

Hi Here is may latest hot tip on cheap components. The jaycar online tech store (Ozzys and kiwis will know jaycar) have 10 segment red LED 20 pin DIPs for $1Au each (Cat # JJ-0007) and 4 segment Green LED for $15 Au for a pack of 25 (Cat # JJ-0008). Here is the link: www.jaycar.co.au Kiwi's which are living in the Auckland area can get C64's with PSU from "Soundcycle" in Kingsland for around $50NZ each. I've also sourced some 2u Proel Natural Aliminium Rack enclousers for around $70NZ each (Much nicer looking the Dick Smith and Jaycar ones) Till next time Rowan

This topic has been moved to [link=http://www.midibox.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=parts_archive;action=display;num=1067980275;start=0]Parts Archive[/link] by Thorsten Klose.

Hi I got my hands on another 6581, which I tried out yesterday. The filter works correctly on this chip (6581R4AR 4086 S). What I realized is that the first 3 x 6581's didn't have the "R4AR" printed on the chip. I'm guessing that there are differences in the filter operation between the 6581 and the 6581R4AR (Hence the different code on the chip). Has anyone used this varity? I'de like to know if my chips have faulty filter circuitry. My SID is also humming. I got a C64 PSU yesterday too, so i'm going to try it out. I'm currently just using a 12V regulated wallwort to supply the SID. I was reading the data sheet for the 6581 and it's suggested to keep the digital gnd and analog gnd separate to avoid noise leaking into the audio path. I'm unsure if this is causing the hum though. I've just measured the hum, it's at 100Hz (twice the local mains freq). pay_c, can you measure what freq the hum from your SID? Rowan