nebula
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Posts posted by nebula
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I've been quiet lately, but I'm still in!
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Don't forget bankstick for storage. For that you'll probably just want to put a few EEPROMs on a piece of perfboard. You'll find the bankstick schematic on the ucapps.de page.
There is no pre-designed front panel available as far as I know - especially since it will depend on the buttons you use.
Welcome - and good luck!
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I would love to have a hardware audio input that goes to a comparator, then to a DIN. Pressing a button on the MBCV would cause it to measure the frequency on the DIN and calibrate a voltage look-up table so that it can play perfect scales, regardless of the oscillator's response or temperature.
This is similar to the auto-tuning in many vintage analog polysynths, and these days it's a very compelling reason to use something like Silent Way or Volta instead of a dedicated MIDI>CV converter.
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Smash, how much longer?? I really need mine for a school project
:frantics: :frantics: :frantics: :frantics: :frantics: :frantics: :frantics: :frantics:
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For my circle sequencer project I had sketched out the panel first using the drawing tools in MS Word. Then I designed the board using Eagle. When I created the footprint for the pushbuttons, I added an extra 1/16" hole right in the middle of the component:
I then clamped the unpopulated circuit board to the back of the panel and drilled through each hole with a 1/16" bit. I removed the panel, then enlarged each hole using a stepped drill bit.
I know this isn't exactly what you're talking about, since this is a homebrew panel, but ... for this project I used the board as a stencil to cut the panel.
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UHM! AHEM!! COUGH COUGH COUGH -nerd- COUGH!
/me thinks he'll delete his name and add it to the end, giving Hawkeye board number 75 just for being such a dork.
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I just bought 5 faders from Mouser to repair a Pioneer DJM-500:
Good find, sneakthief! I stand corrected - although I see Mouser lists them as a new product :)
Did the faders fit? Are they the same quality as the originals?
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If you're only seeing continuity with the polarity one way, you're likely just seeing the bridge rectifier. I suspect there's nothing wrong.
I admit I still haven't finished my sammichSID, but of all the projects I've ever built - MIDIbox and otherwise - I don't recall ever checking continuity between gnd and +V after the components are loaded.
If you're seeing voltage when the power supply is connected, and no smoke, there can't very well be a short!
Have a nice trip...
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The MIDIbox LC ("Logic Control") project uses the "MF" module ("Motor Faders".) A revised "MF" concept has been developed. It is an improved way of working with motorized faders.
If I were to build a MIDIbox LC I'd probably go bleeding edge and make it the newer way.
Refer to this thread:
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So ... does this mean that if you get the black knob as you pictured on the left, there is no pointer on the knob itself ... meaning that the orientation is irrelevant, since the pointer is only on the cap? I'd probably get a bunch like that too, since I'm considering new knobs for my MS2000, and they'd work well on the MB-808 too.
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For my sequencer project I'm using SOIC shift registers, and 5-resistor (6-pin) thru-hole SIP networks as pullups. (Also I used thru-hole bypass caps). On one side of the SR there is an unused resistor in the network, and on the other the 5th resistor is used as the pull-up on the SR chain signal. I found myself occasionally connecting both the pull-up and the button input directly to the IC pin - the order will make no difference.
I chose the bussed thru-hole resistor networks mainly because they're really cheap.
I don't know if it's any help or not, but I'm attaching a couple of pics that sort of illustrate how I did it... at the very least it may give you some ideas. I think you can click the thumbnails to make bigger images
The first pic shows a basic DIN SR with pull-ups right by the IC.
The second shows a DIN SR where I didn't have room for the pull-ups. This was the last DIN in my chain, so not all pins are used.
The third shows a DIN SR where there were other components and traces in my way, so I had to move the resistor network to another part of the world.
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If you're seeing voltage while the board is powered, but then you remove the power and you get continuity at the same point, then your continuity-testing instrument must be getting tricked by a load.
Try measuring resistance (in ohms) instead of simply measuring continuity. A short should appear as < 1 ohm.
Also, make sure your transformer is not plugged in to the board (even if it is unplugged from the wall) when you are making these measurements.
If you're still seeing a short, maybe check the orientation of the bridge rectifier?
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I don't know about the "build email" you're referring to, but sammichSID Build Guide 1.0 (the latest) is available at http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=sammichSID#sammichSID_build_guide
You need a regulated 12V external power supply for sammichSID. Maybe you read the paragraph on page 17 of the build guide that says the 6582 SIDs require 9V? This is true about the SIDs themselves, but not the external power supply. Read page 17 from the top.
Plug in a nice 12VDC supply, place the jumpers correctly and you should see 9V on the SID sockets.
To answer your last question, malfunctioning regulators can be rather unpredictable. Sometimes they allow overvoltage, sometimes the voltage comes out low, sometimes they open, sometimes they oscillate. As an aside: I read your post several times, confused, because "VR" to me means "Variable Resistor". I recommend you just use the term "regulator".
Good luck, and welcome to the forum!
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Usually it's the 5V part that goes. Maybe you have a bad connection or an intermittent cord. Or you may have shorted and burned out the 9VAC part.
In some parts of the world, the C64 power supply can be taken apart. Here in North America, they can't.
There are numerous discussions here about brewing your own C64 power supply. It might be helpful if individuals who have built one could consider creating Wiki pages to document their creations.
I still plan to make a C64 power supply myself, as I have blown up about 3 of them in the past few years. I have already bought all the components. I still need an enclosure, and I *do* plan to re-use the cable with the DIN plug from one of the defective power supplies.
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I presently need about 100-150 pointer knobs for some analog drums I'm working on. I am also on the list for a Rev 3 MB-808 board, so I will need knobs for that.
I am not terribly fussy, but I always liked these ones, and I used them on my x0xb0x:
Here's what I NEED:
6mm D-shaft (is that a "given"?)
slim
Here's what I like:
soft-touch
Here's a question:
Is it ever OK to interchange 6 mm and 1/4 inch d-shaft knobs? (1/4 inch is 6.35 mm)
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Looks pretty cool!
I really like the look of those square buttons on the lower half of the panel. If it was me, I would probably try to figure out a way use more of the same square buttons in place of the tiny tact switches on the top half, just to tie the whole thing together. But I would keep the tiny buttons for the mod matrix.
That is, of course, assuming they are based on actual buttons you can buy!
Also, the bender is real cool, but do you have a lever like that? It looks like a JX-3P bender. It will be a hell of a challenge to incorporate into your own case design.
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I quickly made a different schematic, if this is what you mean with matrixing it down to 2 SR's then I will go forward with this, else I will continue with the classical way.
Hey Jef, yeah that's basically what I mean, but unless you want to dive heavily into the existing MB code, I wouldn't do it. I would just add more SR's for your buttons.
If you plan to do this on something other than perfboard (i.e. home etch or professional fab), then may I suggest surface-mount 74HC165 IC's (as several of us have been playing with). They save a LOT of room!
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:thumbsup:
nice
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I'm curious as to why you used one data line per switch instead of the diodes plus matrix arrangement used in the MB6582? I guess your way (the classical way) is far easier to debug and conceptually grasp though :thumbsup:
For a one-off personal design, the "classical way" is the way to go. The software is already written this way, and there really isn't a big savings in ICs. Here he's using 4 SR's - yes you could matrix it down to 2 SR's, but then you've gotta stick in 32 diodes and modify some code.
I've got no idea at thi point in time if a resistor to VCC like you did it or a resistor to GND is to be preferred - someone else maybe knows.
AFAIK all the MIDIbox projects have the resistor to VCC ("pull up resistor"), but can be easily changed to the opposite logic. Check out the DIN schems on ucapps.de.
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There are extra rows on the DIN modules so you can use SIP resistor networks or discrete resistors as pull-ups. There are drawings on SmashTV's site that illustrate this. There is no advantage to using one over the other.
The 100 uF capacitor is a fairly recent addition. It's C5 in this schematic.
I have made several MIDIbox projects with DOUTs and I have never used or needed this capacitor. You might, if your project uses a lot of high-current LEDs, or motors, or if it has a shitty power supply, or perhaps other reasons.
Others may disagree with me, but I would leave it out unless I needed it for some reason, especially since you'd probably have to solder it to the bottom of the board.
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I've been down this road. You can find the Pioneer parts a bit cheaper on eBay. But you will not find these parts available through any regular vendor like Mouser, Digikey etc.
But the quality of the Pioneer stuff is exceptional.
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I'm a bit pissed off that I received some IC sockets from Newark that look like these on line:
http://canada.newark.com/fci/dilb8p-223tlf/dip-socket-8pos-through-hole/dp/53K0893?Ntt=53k0893
http://canada.newark.com/fci/dilb14p-223tlf/dip-socket-14pos-through-hole/dp/53K0888?Ntt=53k0888
I just got them today, and they're not as pictured. If you look at the datasheet links on those pages, you'll see that they're not the nice sockets with the circular machined holes ... instead I got cheap, dual-wipe sockets. Caveat emptor, I suppose. :mad:
I bought quite a few of them for my 9090. I really wanted the boards to look nice, and I do prefer the machined sockets if you think you might actually be changing the ICs around a fair bit. The problem is that they're always so expensive!
Does anybody know of a decent line of machined IC sockets that I can buy 50 of without having to mortgage my house?
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Maximum is 128 DIN inputs. DINX4 has 32 inputs, so you can use up to 4 of them.
mb-6582 shutting down
in MIDIbox SID
Posted
One good way to tell if your power supply has failed: unplug the LCD. If that doesn't fix things, try also pulling out a PIC and its two SIDs. If the rest of the box starts working, you most likely have a power supply issue. And by "power supply" I mean the combination of your external unit and any regulators you have on-board.