Nomical

Weightlifting

Warm weather

P.A.

Same here. Most stuff i filled in was true. In the end you have to fill in your adress anyway if you wish to recieve the samples. Except for the company name and stuff like that. Just fill in anything for a company name.

Handige site, jammer dat ie niet in het engels is voor de rest van het forum.

synchronisation

Ok, i'm doing it myself now by posting here, but can't you guys read the topic title? ;D

Waar is de link dan? ;D

Lazartran?

I also need a (toriodal) transformer. I don't like walladapters, so i want to put the transformers inside the casing and toriodal transformers produce little heat, are easy and small. The one that's was proposed to me was a toriodal (ringkern) tranformer with two windings of 12V and it was 20VA. I can't find one on the Reichelt site that matches this one, could i also use this one Ringkerntrafo, Print, 25 VA, 2x 15 V, 832 mA or would this one Ringkerntrafo, Print, 25 VA, 2x 12 V, 1041 mA be the better choice? Would a 12V winding be enough to power a 12V analog circuit? I thought i remembered reading on this forum about a loss in power for some reason meaning that if you need 12V you should power it with 15V. I'm not sure about this and could have read and misinterpreted completely. Any info on this one? I also want to power the MBHP modules with a toriodal transformer. But do toriodal transformers with only one winding exist? Because i only need one winding right? Could i simply not use the second winding of a transformer? And what should the specifications be for such a transformer to power the modules? 9V, 500mA? Cheers, C.

Jack

Hi, I'm looking for a stereo 6.3 mm jack connector which has a switch built inside that is open-circuited when something is inserted. Is this one any good? Just incase it needs a cookie or whatever and the url doesn't link: Riechelt #: EBS 63P Klinkenbuchse, 6,3mm Stereo, Print mit Schaltk. If it's not the right one, where can i get it besides Farnell? And is a Buchsenleiste, 10-polig, einreihig, H: 5,5mm, ger. the same thing as a female SIL connector (with 10 pins)? It is, right?

What is the German translation of 'protective laquer for pcb's'? Or what's it called on the Reichelt website? It's a damn shame that Reichelt's site is only viewable in German, not in English. Why is that anyway, they do international orders. And @ Smash TV, what's the name of the stuff they sell at Conrad? Is this the one: Positive Thanks, C.

Brass

Now i'm lost... ;D You're both talking about things that i have to do before the soldering process. But i've already soldered everything. Just to sum it up: So i must get this protective laquer stuff, polish of the oxidated copper with something that doesn't damage the rest of the copper and put the laquer stuff on the pcb and than it will be ok? Thank you ;D Cheers, C.

So if i understand correctly, it's best to spray the pcb's with that flux spray stuff when you've already soldered your pcb's, right? And the spray that is best (or has good results) is the one you can buy at Conrad? Ordering from Conrad is no problem over here. Does anyone know which spray it is, brand or type or Conrad number? One thing that's not too clear though is how to get the oxidated copper of the pcb's before i spray it. Something about the erasers on pencils? Can i use that method safely to remove the copper that has been oxidated? Thanks for the info already!!! Cheers, C.

I wasn't all to certain about the hairspray :D A friend of mine does electronics also for his study/school and he recommended buying hairspray instead of (expensive) electronics spray for protection. I thought it was strange, seems like others never heard of it too... :D I'll try and lend a digital camera and post a picture of what i'm seeing. By the way, everything is soldered but the ic's aren't stuffed into the sockets yet. So i'll wind up spraying those pcb's with some kind of protective stuff. Thanks for the ideas. Cheers, C.

I got a problem with my pcb's and i couldn't find the answer here. When i look at them, i could swear something is degrading. I don't know how to explain what i see and i can't take a digital picture of it. It looks as if it's either corroding/oxidising or that the tracks are dissolving. Has anyone had this too? And how can i stop this? What's the best solution? Should i get some of the special coating stuff for electronics that i can spray on the pcb's, should i use simple (ultrastrong) hairspray or is there even a better solution? Or is it something i don't have to worry about? I thought Mike also sprayed something on the pcb's to stop the oxidation of the tracks, pads and planes. Or is this not sufficient anymore after soldering everything? Cheers, C.

Just to indicate possibilities: I used a 12W Mini Weller to solder everything.

Ik heb ook mn encoders via Nat verkregen, maar: Een quote van Nat: Several people are interested in case someone cancels. It would be definately possible to order from the same source, however, I won't have the time until the summer to take care of that. Â If someone would be willing to make the transaction, message me in private and we'll try to manage something. Nat's Encoder Topic

I need this eventually as well. I searched for it in the past, but i could only get them directly from Lazaertran's website. And they seem quite expensive. Maybe the situation changed and somebody knows an adress where you can buy them cheaper?

They are also called SPNO switches/buttons, which stands for Single Push Normally Open.

::) This sounds interesting.... :D I'm watching this :D

Anyone know something about the placement of components on a pcb?

Je had toch een crystalfontz display gekocht via Laupro? Zo ja, dan is er een kans dat je een defecte hebt, want het blijkt dat een aantal mensen last had van defecte displays. Maar als je contact opneemt met de inkoper dan is het allemaal op te lossen. Ik kreeg een mailtje dat als er iets mis zou zijn ik onder bepaalde voorwaarden nieuwe kan krijgen. Je moest geloof ik wat extra vervoerskosten betalen of zo.