Fx3_hdrive

Hi Due to unfortunate circumstances im forced to sell my cool looking KJ-1, a 48 encoder midibox which I built for my brother while I was in college. It cost an arm and a leg, but at least it gave me an awesome grade and many curious looks =D We never use it anymore as both of us got rid of all our music gear. Even tho some bits are unfinished its built very sturdily. The case is heavy steel sheet and internals are mounted inside securely. Everything is closed together with machine bolts. Its purpose was to be taken to gigs and it should survive such conditions. The pictures at the bottom are from early in the build. All DIN modules are now finished and wired (also, the missing encoder has been replaced). It does have problems with button bounce, and because encoder sensitivity has been quadrupled thats a little jumpy too. I come here to ask for permission, but also in hope that it will go to a decent home, to someone who can fix it up and actually get to use it properly. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280852475808 Thank you

i ask because at our collage we have a dosen soldering stations and they get constant punishment from the students (us :P) but they look so good, their completly covered in a coat of solder, and the tips shape looks like new. could they be plated?? i just want a tip i can rely on, knowing that it wont fk up in a weeks soldering like mine did

http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=2926.0 i was wondering when the issue will pop up :P yes, at low speeds the motor produces little voltage, but its big enough for a comparator, if u want even lower speeds u can include another opamp or something to increase the gain at low voltage, and atenute it if its too big. "the circuit responded as low as 1/3 r.p.m." again i must underline that this is a very low speed. ps. if u dont use the HD steppers and use the normal ones where u can feel dents, (its not mechanical dents, its magnetic) then u can use that as 1 value increment. i have dont a little testing (as u can read on my earlier thread) with an oscilloscope and an led. (one day all i did was sit around turning the HD stepper ;D)

hmm, are plated tips better? or do they errode as fast as normal copper ones? home electroplating, thats an idea ;D (are they nickel plated?)

polycarbonate hmmmm isnt that what apple makes their ibooks from? it sure is lovely ;D

i have a partially same problem, i had a new tip, i'm not entierly sure if it was copper, but after couple of weeks of intense soldering it started "eroding" away, now instead of a fine point, its about 4mm dia blunt, like it has been broken ??? i'm afraid to grind it because its my last tip

is that a power connector at the top left corner? is he acting along to the recording??

Hey every1, this q is directed at SmashTV about his online store i noticed that on your order status page som1 ordered something from West Yorkshire UK and i was wondering if s/he was near by? note: Smash i'm not asking you to release any details, thats just wrong, but maybe if the buyer sees this post and something... i dont know... Yarek

I live in UK and i'm willing to program PIC's (maybe), just as long as u cover the postage costs. i havent found any1 in UK able to do that so i "stepped up" its just a suggestion, because u can allready order perburned PIC from Smash Yarek

MBHP TV

Happy Birthday !! i can only wonder what prezzies you got... Wish u all the best and stuff!

as i mentioned earlier i pass the paper with the artwork through the priner while its open (i press a switch on the side with a screw driver so it makes the prinet think its closed) and with another screw driver i bypass the heat roller and the paper comes out, it looks just like an ordinary artwork but if u touch it with you finger it would smuge, the toner is just sitting there like dust, all with perfect resolution then i preheat the copper side of the pcb and slap the paper on it, the toner starts to adhere to the copper and then i just go crazy with the iron ;) hope that helps Yarek T

hmmmm i kind of... a superman.....

wooooooow its like zooming into a carpet full of hairballs ;D

if i get hold of an old laser then i'll try to mod it for printing boards ;D DIY Style ;D open to donations... :P

oh yeah i know what u mean, in autocad squares dont have a center point, so what u have to do is draw two construction lines through the centre, and then drag it to your allingment grid, then delete the lines 1 last point. make sure that your button is in the middle of the holes on the vector board, that way u know to place your center of your button on the middle of 4 holes on the vector board (i can draw u an example, or can u send me your panel on mi email if u want me to look at it, then i could help more, (make sure u save it as a drawring file otherwise i wont be able to open it in solidworks. fx3_hdrive(at)hotmail(dot)com Yarek T

i'm doing autocad as a part of my college course ;D i can help you but u must describe the problem more clearly i wouldnt recomend allinging the button cutouts to the grid since that brings its own problems, u can work out how far they are apart ,from each other, so if the pitch of the board is 2.54mm, and u want to have your buttons to be 100 mm from each other. have them at (2.54x39=99.06) that will give u allinged position, i think u can also change the grid to that and then use Move command, make sure u turn off snap to grid in the lower bottom panel. i'm at coll now so i dont have much time, exqueeze me for mistakes Yarek T

thx moebius, i found them addresses usefull i have done what i wanted, i have created 6 pages for the display menu (instead of 3) it shows each line on every page, quite a tackle. allthough i didnt edit the display driver because i didnt know how and where... so that left me with crappy unreadible menus, i cant even tell what channel my mb is on :'( maybe some of you can help :)

u can tap the holes in your panel if u havent drilled them out yet, that way u can screw the screws for the lcd from inside (with spacers of course) and have the ends of the screws flush with the surface. thats what i'm going to do on mine :) Yarek T EDIT> random bits and stuff

oooh, *shoots self* ur totaly right, inkjets wouldnt resist acid, but how about my second idea? maybe take all the plastic off and make some space between the rollers to stick your board in, dunno what will it do to the toner cartrige with the board being copper. btw on my laser printer (ML4500 - Samsung) i opened the front, where u can see the heating element and fed the paper manually to make it bypass the heat roller, after that i transfered it using clothes iron and it was pretty neat i must say. Yarek T

MIDIboxes for all ;D ;D

hey guys, if any1 owns a printer that can print CDs then they pissed it ;D i havent tried this method on mine but i think u'll agree that it eliminates all the transfer problems. ohh there is an idea, rip apart an old printer and stuff a board instead of paper ;D DIY style ;D Yarek T

thanx TK that means i have to find a bigger lcd. thx for your reply now i have to concentrate onto more important things, like building last 2 DINs and buying stuff Yarek T

hi, recently i found this quote on wiki this is strange because on my display it shows only half of the screen as blocks, the rest is blank so i suspect a wrongly wired LCD ?? can someone please confirm that when u power up your midibox, the first line is full of blocks? Yarek T

i have looked at the Main.asm code and its really complex for me, i will try to dig into it with help of my brother, he is a programing wiz (only in C++ though :() can someone point me to what i should edit to maybe add the second line as a separate page or should i spend that money and buy a 2x16 with B/L? is 1x16 so unuseful or can i make it work at least for early tesing period? i still have to buy 48 encoders and 28 buttons, the cost of that is going to be through the roof !! thankyou in advance Yarek T