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Posts posted by Davo
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How about redirects? There are an awful lot of things like "foo" and "foo installation" such that "foo installation" is only a few lines long and really should be a part of "foo". This would call for redirects, or at least delete requests.
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Mouser has them for $21.21. I don't think much more will be saved by doing a group buy.
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Some time ago, someone here made the rounds with a couch as a midi device. Here's a video of someone using midi to control the output of a tesla coil: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGwkmwhPdUQ. Of course, here are the schematics and other info: http://members.thegeekgroup.org/~capper/midisch.html.
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Either I can't find where these are, or the wiki is missing these features entirely. I'm trying to figure out how to do a redirect. With Wikipedia, you can make an article redirect to something else with a #REDIRECT[[target_article]] tag. How do I do this with dokuwiki?
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Sometime after this project is done, I'd like to get a group buy going for some MBFM front panels. I have almost everything done for that except the chassis. With prices like that... Whee!!!
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yeah the LEDs stand quite high off the PCB (the gap is 10mm remember?) so you could mount them flat (not poking through at all). I personally like them to be as far out as the switches, so you can see a dome but it's not poking out further than the switches, which would look strange.
I'll experiment with light pipes.
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I assume you've installed the driver and Jack?
Jack is installed. I can't figure out what else is needed besides. I have a MOTU Fastlane. When it's plugged in, /dev/midi1 appears. Doing "cat /dev/midi1" should produce a bursts of characters when keys on the midi board are struck, but nothing appears. Mashing keys only results in the MOTU flashing a light: expected, but not what I'm ultimately after. If I start Rosegarden, it recognizes that a MOTU Fastlane is connected. It doesn't get anything from the board either.
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Does anyone here use Linux? I'm trying to figure out how to get a midi keyboard to talk to my Linux machine (specifically Ubuntu 7.04). All the howtos on midi and linux either completely ignore hardware or skip past that, assuming it always works.
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I am ready to forget about alternatives and arrange a bulk order through FPE for engraved panels. If people want to go with lexan overlays or silk screen then that's fine by me, I will make all the files available to everyone. However, I think a lot of other people are happy with FPE's price and quality and the look of engraved artwork.
FPE has been tried before and is known to work. I'd rather have panels from there than something untried.
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Yummy! Red soldermask is a nice touch. When I did my run of P112 kits, I asked the post office to lend me some letter crates. You've probably seen them behind the counter.
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I found a link described as "UK Service for engraving synth panels (etc)" that links to http://www.cncpanels.co.uk/ but the cncpanels site only has this text on their homepage:
Could this be the UK guy you were thinking of?
Yes, that's the guy. I doublechecked with archive.org.
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yep. The inverter produces about 120V AC (!!)
Er... Oops.
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No. The one I'm thinking of has an engraving and milling machine with which he makes engraved panels exactly like Front Panel Express.
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There's someone in the UK who can take Front Panel Express files and turn out front panels for about a quarter to half of what FPE charges. He mainly does synthesizer stuff and had a stock of Oakley panels. Does anyone remember who this is? I lost the URL and can't seem to track him down with Google.
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So if we go with silkscreen, I thought we might as well take advantage of it.
Here's a proposal for alternate artwork:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~wilba6581/mb-6582/MB-6582_frontpanel_alternate.pdf
Note the only major difference is the inverted labels for the control groups (i.e. black text on a white background). All lines and other text is identical to the original panel in FPD.
I like it. My only concern is over durability of the silk-screening. The stock front panel of my Paia Fatman was so bad that I could chip paint simply by reaching for a knob and having my fingernail hit the panel. Have you considered reverse-engraving on perspex/plexiglas? Look at http://www.timefracture.org/D16pics/d16front2.jpg for an example of such a front panel. See also http://www.timefracture.org/D16docs/D16_Design_Notes.html.
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To illuminate the knobs from below, I don't think you really need to wire up each knob with an LED. Consider instead two cold-cathode tubes and one LED beneath the top-right knob.
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Why are PLEDs being discontinued?
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I'm in.
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Since I answered you the first time, you probably expect an answer from me again or you'll think I'm rude. ;D
Put the button anywhere you like. I've already said it's not needed. I don't understand why you really want one, considering you didn't know what it would do until yesterday.
I have a great affinity for fiddling with a synth's controls while playing it. Having a 3O toggle close at hand appeals to this. 8)
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Of course, our favourites are midibox-based ;D. What are some of your favourite non-midibox-based synthesizers? Mine are the Yamaha TX802, Paia Fatman, and Arrick Modular.
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Suppose I wanted to add a button to toggle 3O. That wouldn't be too hard -- I'd just need somewhere to put it, right? I'm thinking somewhere on the rear panel.
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I'm looking at Wilba's design and I noticed in his changes to the Step C panel that it's missing the "03" LED in the filter section. Since I haven't yet finished my MBSID v1, I was wondering what this LED indicates and what is made more difficult with it missing. Furthermore, why would this LED having its own button be desirable?
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I've noticed that when more than a few boards are ordered, the fabber will frequently throw in two or three free. When I ordered 100 P112 boards, I wound up with 107 or so.
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Mmmm... very moog-ish looking. Where did you get that keyboard?
Davo
Low cost PCB fabrication
in Fleamarket
Posted
Another thing about layers -- The reason for four layers is almost always to have power and ground appear on their own layers. Then wherever they're needed, a via is poked through. This makes routing much easier with more complex boards. Those two extra layers are entirely copper except where vias go through that aren't supposed to be connected to it. Layers more than that are usually used to cut down on vias when things get even denser (like modern computer motherboards).