Davo
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Posts posted by Davo
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Jameco is a much better source for that kind of thing. See http://www.jameco.com/
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Yow!!! I don't think I'd have the patience to deal with a breadboard like that. If I were you, I'd use telephone punch-down blocks. But still... 20 ranks of pipes in your house. Pardon me whilst I drool. :o
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No kidding. I've gotten a few kits from you and everything is packed nicely, and all correct components were always shipped. Kind of like the old Heathkits in that I never got a kit with a missing or wrong component. Then again there's PAIA who I love, but of the 5 kits I've got there in the last few years, every one has had missing or wrong components. And their packaging leaves a LOT to be desired, unlike yours which is neat and well organized.
My only problem with PAIA is that the frontpanels are the bad silkscreening. When I got my Fatman, I noticed that tapping the silkscreening with a fingernail would cause it to chip. I tried spraying it with a clear laquer, but that made it look awful and didn't do anything to prevent chipping. So I just scraped off all the silkscreening and labeled things with a Brother labelmaker. It worked out okay since I hacked up the front panel anyhow.
FWIW, I moved all the jacks to the rear, cut out the area where the MIDI and CV jacks went, and replaced it with an aluminum plate. There's enough space for a finetune pot and five toggles.
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You don't need to use up an entire sheet of transfer paper. First print the pattern on plain paper. Then cut out a piece of transfer paper just large enough for your pattern. Tape that piece over the pattern you printed on the plain paper. Finally, print again on that and you have your trace pattern on the transfer paper.
You can find reviews on different papers and various techniques at the Homebrew PCB list at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/. For example, certain brands of inkjet photo paper are good for toner-transfer.
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1) Take a small microphone and put it in your mouth.
2) Make a really loud belch.
3) Loop the sample, slow it down by a factor of 10 or more.
4) Apply lowpass.
I did it with SpiralLoop.
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When I read the topic title, it reminded me of what I say when I use JSynthLib... "Forking JSynthLib!!!" I personally don't like the interface at all, although the concept is good.
Specifically what bugs you? Is it something that could be fixed without trashing the entire user interface? At present, all I want to do is get rid of the cruft.
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Is there anyone here who knows enough about Java to join me in forking Jsynthlib? My intent is to continue development of this utility, fix bugs, add new synths, and generally keep bitrot away. I have a private server to host a CVS repository.
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See if you can guess how this was made: http://frotz.homeunix.org/tmp/metalburp-128.ogg
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From what I've seen, the quality is decent. c0nsumer said FPE is good for low quantity orders. :)
Oops! ;D
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Just to chime in, the front and rear panels were done by Front Panel Express. Anyone can have them made. (FPE is expensive, but it's one of the simplest ways to get accurate low-quantity front panel milling + coloring done.)
Low? I thought the quality was at least decently good.
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Try washing the boards, top and bottom, with flux-remover.
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See http://frotz.homeunix.org/p112. I'm sold out, but I'm taking names.
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Another run of these PCBs will happen, and probably soon, maybe they will get "stocked" in SmashTV's shop, or maybe it will be just another bulk order arrangement, all the possibilities are being discussed. Just wait patiently. There's probably no need to keep a tally anymore, critical mass has been reached. ;)
It was kinda like that when I did a run of P112 kits. I took preorders for 35 units, but a friend convinced me to make 100. They're all gone now and I'm thinking of doing another run of 100.
Is anyone here into old computers?
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Perhaps Smash could get in on the deal and add the boards that aren't presold to his inventory.
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One more: The silkscreen for the diode in each core has a via right in the middle, obscuring the arrow. Which direction is the arrow pointing?
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Some more questions:
1) Jimp tells me that the tiny jumper pads on the solder side beneath the cores have something to do with 8-bit mode for LCDs. How are these supposed to be set?
2) Is there any reason why 16-volt 2200uF caps cannot be used instead of 25-volt ones?
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Will these fixes appear in the next batch of boards if/when that happens?
I don't think there would be a problem to bridge pins 4 and 5 if you don't need it. It should be okay to put that fix in the PCB design files.
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These questions are directed at Wilba, but I presume others are asking them too:
There are some things about the base PCB that aren't addressed in the construction guide (yet).
1) What is the function of J11 (directly below U1_Core1)?
2) What is the function of P1 (extreme lower right corner)?
3) How are the attentuating pots pictured on the rear of the chassis connected?
4) What sorts of heatsinks should be fitted for V3 and V1 (I am using Option B). Their positions seem to prevent both from having a sink at the same time. Should I look for flatter heatsinks?
5) If I'm using the Pactek chassis do the extra headers on the cores really need to be populated?
6) Likewise, do I really need to mount pot P2 for the slave cores?
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Another paint you might want to try is black polyseal rubber spraypaint. Some others here have used it with great results.
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I have sent a message to the winner of the auction informing them of the facts and linking to this thread. Perhaps they will not pay this profiteer the (inflated) winning bid price.
I did so as well.
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If I'm reading this post and TK's licensing on Midibox, it's not permitted to sell Midibox equipment for a profit. This started me wondering about liquidating Midibox equipment. Suppose for whatever reason I decide to liquidate my equipment. Shouldn't it be acceptable to sell the equipment for whatever price I can get for it? I don't see how this would cause offense since the equipment was acquired to use, not to sell? Now suppose I die and someone buys out my collection and sells off equipment not wanted. It doesn't seem reasonable to restrict that buyer from reselling Midibox equipment.
So, in conclusion, it seems that manufacturing AND selling multiple units is bad. It's okay to sell personal-use equipment. With books, the rights of the publisher/manufacturer to affect resale end at the first sale. In these two scenarios, the first sale (such as it is) has already passed. Am I right? If not, where am I wrong?
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Rit dye is good on nylon. I'm not sure how it would do with polystyrene or ABS. That might be worth a little experimentation.
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Does anyone know what's going on with JSynthLib? As in, is anyone working on it? Is anyone interested in picking it up? I'm having a couple problems with the patched version offered by TK.
1) I start a new library and select "Get" to pull settings from a synth. Right now, all I have is a Yamaha TX802 to do things like this with. I can cause the synth to do a sysex dump of whatever I like, but when I hit the "Paste" button to put that stuff in the library I just created, nothing happens. Nor does anything happen when I press "Done".
2) Compiling the latest CVS barfs on one of the Roland drivers with a litany of complains of symbols it couldn't find.
>:( >:( >:(
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I should have said something when I got mine last week. Thanks!
Questions about MB-6582 construction
in MIDIbox User Projects
Posted
Why is that guy using shorting plugs? There are jacks that will, when wired correctly, do exactly what he's trying to do.