Davo
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Posts posted by Davo
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I`m not sure why every knob manufacturer don`t offer all their knobs in version without pointer. AFAIK from known manufacturers only Re`an do it, but still, it is very difficult to get all their knobs variations in small quantity.
I personally like their P670 model very much. It has so many advantages... it is soft touch, small diameter, small height, It has skirt that covers the nut, comes in variety of colors and it is cheap! :) Meny DIY people and commercial manufacturers use it for their units. But, they don`t offer a version without pointer. :(
Recently I find on Farnell knob that seams exact clone of this Re`an knob, It is made by Multicomp and it has pointer-less version. :) But... there is always "but" datasheet says it is made out of plastics, so they are probably not soft touch. Here is the bad quality picture from Farnell
datasheet: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/105152.pdf
direct link at Farnell: http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/cr-bab-6-d/knob-15-7mm-black-no-line/dp/1441143?_requestid=87898
Also, Re`an`s 10mm wide, soft touch P675 is perfect when dense packing is necessary.
Sorry to reply to such an old thread, but it's been a long time since I was on here. This is EXACTLY the sort of knob I've been looking for for a long time. Thanks for pointing this out. 26 pence seems a decent enough price too.
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I pulled out my still-incomplete MB6582 to see what parts I still need to get. I was a bit startled to see that what was previously white silkscreening is now yellowish. Has anyone noticed this? Also... are .375 standoffs acceptable substitutes for the 10mm standoffs specified?
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Just wanted to say "hi" to everyone after being away for several months. I might have a semi-working Paia Fatman for sale soon...
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I'm very impressed with the USBtinyISB dongle from Ladyada. See http://www.ladyada.net/make/usbtinyisp/. It even has clean support for Linux. Has anyone here used it? Does anyone here know if it's possible to come up with something like this for use with PICs? I have a hard time dealing with Windows and I can't seem to find any other decent burners. I'm still looking for a decent general eprom solution. A dongle like this for PICs would be very very nice.
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Try the 'wayback machine'
http://web.archive.org/web/*/http://www.webone.com.au/~mydav/calliope.htm
Got it first shot!
You will probably find some pictures missing though.
Hope this helps
I should have stated that I used the wayback machine. I managed to make a composite of all the versions that were archived, but there are still lots of missing pics. That's why I'm looking for the .doc or .pdf.
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Has anyone here fiddled with calliopes, particularly homemade ones? I'm trying to locate an article written by Dave Kerr around 2001 who documents everything you need to know to make an air-powered calliope. His last-known website was http://www.webone.com.au/~mydav/calliope.htm. There's supposed to be a .doc file floating around that has all the information and pictures in it.
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Regarding the use of JB-Weld -- When Altitude redid my panels (the silkscreeners still couldn't get it right), he drilled the corners for me and tossed in some nifty knurled allen screws. He and I found that if only the corners are drilled, then positioning the standoffs becomes MUCH easier.
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You can get to it from the front page, through the user projects section...what's the problem?
Oops... I'm not sure what I saw.
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I just noticed that one cannot get to the project website from the mainpage. Would someone please fix that?
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Before the chatroom broke, it used to display how many people were in there at the time. Now it doesn't. Is there some way to get that functionality back?
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Hmmm... So, how many midibox meet-and-greets has there been so far besides in Germany? I'm on the west coast of the US...
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Okay, so how does one edit http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/user_projects to point to this new project?
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Got some SIDs today with a "LUFTPOST" sticker. Whee!
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well i can do larger panels... only engraving half at a time.. then flipping it around to do the rest.
my problem with doing larger panels is the post that supports the head of the machine. larger panels would hit the post when the table moves back. (shoulda coulda built a gantry style machine)
is there any .dxf's or plain old image files available for those panels that i could check out?
Check out some of the freely-available modular synth front panels for a test. If it works out, I'd like to get a couple Wogglebug panels from you.
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Someone was tooling up to do some garage silk-screening to redo the messy job that was done with the first round of panels. Who was that and how are things going?
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Nifty! Count me as one of those who'll be buying your CD. I like the way that the MBSID plays a more mellow role than in most of the other examples I've seen posted here.
How about a pic or two or three of your MB equipment?
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Does anyone here tune their guitar or other stringed instrument with an oscilloscope?
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I'd like one set of four.
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TK, have you considered using CF cards instead to take advantage of their greater access speeds?
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The issue of multicarts for vintage video games has been rolling around in my mind for quite some time. All the really good ones are no longer available, so I thought if I could learn the bare metal of PICs, particularly the PIC16F88, I could make my own. Can I get some suggestions for books to read on microcontrollers?
There are dumb multicarts and smart ones. Dumb ones aren't much more than a large ROM and some dip switches. In a smart multicart, a microcontroller translates addresses. Any arbitrary swath of memory can be presented as a ROM of whatever size. So, when the pic first powers up, it shows the menu program. The pic is told which rom to load up through an otherwise unused IO port and then the game starts.
My fantasy multicart would be one that accepts a DOS-formatted SD card, so I guess I'd need a beefy PIC to handle that. Any comments?
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Oh, maaan. Why is it so important? it don`t fit! Check the attachment. Blue lines are mine, reds are unaligned from original. You should sometimes just take answers for granted.
Another thing, I`m not going to copy that design, but If you do it and send me what to cut/engrave I can make it. But only on Rowmark material. Steel you can get only row lasercut without any graphics nor paint.
I'm sorry. That was sloppy of me. I meant that I'm not picky about whether the buttons in question are aligned one way or the other. I now see what you mean.
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If you carefully check you`ll see. It is not just rotation.
So, I don`t understand you about paining metal... Do you want me to cut the metal panel and you`ll do the rest or what?
I still don't see how the buttons are shifted. Anyhow, I'm not picky about that. How close can you get to a panel that looks like #122 at http://www.ladyada.net/make/x0xb0x/gallery.html ?
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The reason I changed a bit ladyada design is that buttons aren`t aligned ??? So turning caps 90deg wouldn`t help. could make you panel like this one with proper holes but only out of Rowmark material with sub-panel and not meal. If you like this texture material i have left I can make it for you. http://www.flickr.com/photos/fibra/sets/72157604783882497/
Comparing the pics, I don't see where the alignment changes. It just seems that the Rest, Accent, and Slide buttons were rotated.
I think I'll look into painting a metal panel so I can get the white keys look. In particular I crave a front panel like the one Mome Rath put on serial number 122 (see http://www.ladyada.net/make/x0xb0x/gallery.html).
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What's up with this chat thing now? Has a decision been made?
First run MB6582 panels yellowing
in MIDIbox SID
Posted
Whoops! I forgot to say that it's the aluminum front panel that has yellowing silkscreen. It doesn't bother me too much except that it no longer looks good with the knobs I have, which are stark white Waldorfs that are still stark white.