Davo
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Posts posted by Davo
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I like the way that SD cards appear to have supplanted the bankstick. Your case looks so good that I'm conflicted about whether or not to go with the aluminum chassis group buy. I have access to all the tools to do something like this.
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I have an old organ keyboard I want to midify optically because the buss wires are a mess. What I'd like to do is position an LED and phototransistor pair next to each spring actuator such that the actuator interrupts the beam. Would someone please recommend an LED/phototransistor combination that I can connect to a DIN module with a minimum of support parts?
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Where can I get just the aluminum extrusions? I have a couple projects in mind that call for rectangular prisms.
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I got one.. what dimensions do you want to know?
Regards
Mike
I've managed to get dimensions on the four large internal boards. I still need dimensions for the rectifier board and the octave buffer.
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I found this linked from synthesizers.com. Analyze a voice and press piano keys to render a somewhat understandable rendition of the original speech. There's a brief view of the guts, but it doesn't look like Midibox stuff. But, hey, it's controlled with Linux!
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If you can't find any info you can always measure the size from decent pics (like here)
I'm trying not to have to resort to that. I'm trying to make things that can be stuck in a Minimoog without any boards in it.
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Does anyone out there have a Minimoog? I'm trying to get the dimensions of the five cards inside it.
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Man oh man, this thing has just slowed to a crawl! What's up?
Shuriken said something about spammers, so I thought that might have been the problem.
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I'm in the process of building a minimoog from spare parts and I thought that while I'm at it, I could midify it. Has anyone here pondered this?
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Though JB-weld is really tough, I ultimately went for through-hole screws. I think if the plate is thick enough, Schaeffer will do blind threaded holes. At first I used cylindrical hex screws but then went to countersunk black hex. I'd rather not have my fingers bang against screws and the like.
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They didn't come from me, you are confusing me with Altitude.
Whoops! :wacko:
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Does anyone know if they can work with panels that have already been drilled? I'd love to finish my mb6582, but my panels turned out to have a really weird yellowing effect and I never got them back to Wilba for reworking. Mmm... Engraved panels...
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Got it! Thanks, Wilba!
I didn't realize that not gluing the screws was an option. Maybe I'll try that on my 2nd MB-6582.
Just make sure it's JB Weld. JB Quick won't do.
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I'm trying to source a 44-key Pratt-Read keybed. Pratt-Read keybeds were frequently found in electronic organs from the 1950s to early 1980s. Spinet organs have 44 keys per manual and tend to appear frequently in the local thrift stores, so I figured I'd get one and cannibalize it. My problem is I don't know which manufacturers used Pratt-Read keybeds. I'm pretty sure Hammond didn't. I know Schober did, but they're hard to find. Can anyone help me?
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Whats wrong with yours?
I fixed two of these things and managed to add too many mods to mine. Right now if I enable too many of the mods it starts clicking 'to the beat'. My smart friend says its the PS resetting because I am asking for too much juice. I just checked out the FatMan Plus. The case looks nice and all but I have too many extras to fit in there. I would say just use the panel that comes with the case and drill those holes out and use the sticker method. It’s not like any of the pots are connected to the PCB.
Good luck.
(you seen this one?)
Lief
That one by Wayne Jones is what I mean by spaghetti job. Scroll down and look at the innards of that thing. I'd rather build a normalized ASM2 into a rackmount case. I started on the path with drilling out holes from the official panel and using the sticker method. I couldn't resist running the flying wires to headers I bolted onto the edge of the board. It worked fine, then I started tinkering again and something broke.
Davo
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After staring at my currently-nonfunctional Paia Fatman, I've decided to put it in a new chassis. C0nsumer's Fatman Plus with PT-10 chassis design appears to be the cleanest. It's also about as complicated of a spaghetti job that I'm willing to approach. Anyhow, I think I've almost worked out C0nsumer's design into a Front Panel Designer file. Is anyone else interested in a set of panels?
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I don't have another, unfortunately.
uh...how do I measure current? the multimeter manual doesn't really help.
I just tried to do it at J25 and the bridge rectifier almost exploded. The top is a bit melted, but everything still works. I should replace it anyway, right?
See this page on using an ammeter. Set the meter to measure DC amps and follow the example in that page. Yes, replace that rectifier. When things get melty it's a good idea to replace them, even if they seem to work okay.
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Pardon me if I'm late to the game on this, but I think optional rack ears is the way to go. Cisco does this all the time with their routers: sit the thing on a table or screw on a pair of rack ears and slide it into the rack. This is one of the things that wound up bugging me a bunch sometime after I bought a rack panel for my MBSID. I wound up wanting to put it on a gutted C64.
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In my one I just roughly cut acrylic to the size of the LCD bezel and glued it to the back of the panel. It doesn't go in the panel cutout, just fills the gap between panel and LCD bezel and looks good enough.
There's also a thread on the forum where Twin-x (and maybe Narwhal also?) are selling CNC cut acrylic windows for MB-6582.
Huzzah!
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I just noticed that this thread is titled "...fleatmarket". Did someone have Sweeney Todd on the brain?
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Digineural has a new set of knobs on the way. Thanks!
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What have you guys been doing about windows in panels? In particular, does anyone have any ideas on getting a piece of perspex cut to the right shape to fit the MB6582's LCD window?
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You could get the PEC11 series encoders that Smash used to sell for about half the price of the ones you list. See here.
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Here are fifteen white opaque Albs "Waldorf" knobs. I forget who I bought these from, but it was someone doing a bulk order here. I decided not to use them because I found some knobs I like better. Fifteen is the number you need for an MB6582 and fifteen is the number you'll get from me. They're clean, unused, and unblemished. I'm in California (west coast of the US).
Optical detection
in MIDIfication
Posted
It's a Pratt-Read keyboard I got off ebay that was formerly found in a Hammond of some sort.