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cimo

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Posts posted by cimo

  1. Floppy connectors

    in Miscellaneous

    Posted

    dscf0003hv2.jpg

    I had this weird PC cable, laying around, i think it is for floppy disks, it s got these connectors that will accept perfectly a pcb inside, so that they could be used to make a multi-pin connection from board to board or even to stack boards on top of each other (base+cs, etc)

  3. Stanton trackmaster II

    in Miscellaneous

    Posted

    hi

    I ma looking for a (cheap) Stanton Trackmaster II stylus, possibly for a bargain price, i could buy even 2 if the price is good, i know that your cousin has got eventually some extra needles he s got last year from a fallen box from a truck...

    Simone

  4. Ableton Scratch Live

    in Miscellaneous

    Posted

    BING! I ve just received this message from the MsPnky team:

    If any of you OSX Ms Pinky users are ready to try something new, please download the "very early beta" version of Maxi-Patch_AO 3.6.9. There is now a new tabbed view, and one of the tabs is "MIDI out". Under this tab you will find controls for selecting available MIDI out devices, and enabling either of the two "modes" of MIDI Output I've come up:

    Mode 1: MIDI CC (Control Change) Output -- in this mode, MIDI CC messages are sent out on the device you choose, on the channel and controller number that you specify. The frequency with which these CC messages are sent is also specified by you.  You also specify the "ticks per rotation" to match the characteristics of the jogwheel you're seeking to emulate. The MIDI CC messages are constructed like this: when the turntable is stopped, the value output is 64. When the turntable spins forward, the value is greater than 64. When the turntable spins in reverse, the value is less than 64. The amount by which it is greater or less than 64 depends on how many "ticks per rotation" you set, and how often you set the CC messages to be sent, and of course it also depends on the speed of the record on your turntable. You will probably have to experiment a bit with all these values to get something that works the way you want it to.

    Mode 2: MIDI Beat CLock Output -- in this mode, you set a "Target BPM". If you need it, there is a little "Tap Tempo" calculator just below that can help you calculate your target BPM. After you enter your Target BPM, you'll see that the turntable speed modulates this Target BPM up or down, depending on the pitch of playback. You can set various parameters of the MIDI CLock output -- for example, I found that with Ableton it works quite well to set "Divisions of a whole note" to 96.  Ableton seems to have no trouble synching up to the beat.

    Each of these two modes can be engaged or disengaged independently. To specify the output device for each mode, double-click on the little "midiout" box underneath the section that has the controls for each mode.

    To get things going, I highly recommend using a great little utility you can get for free called "MIDI Monitor".

    I'll be waiting to hear if anyone thinks this is useful and/or if it even works on your system.

  6. Will this work for power supply?

    in MIDIbox FM

    Posted

    I recently just purchased this one

    http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1100

    It doesn't say switched but does not have the 5v 4a section.

    I have it and it seems like good build quality but I am no expert.

    I am planning on using it for an mbfm in the next month or two aswell. Hope I got a good one.

    If the one your thinking of getting works out let me know.

    That one has got written in big flashing letter on its forehead "I am not a switching supply"

  9. My humble plans and lots of questions...

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    2. I love SEQ done by Halucinogen (see link http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=2608.0) It's just the size i what to achieve. But isn't it just too small? I mean when you try to put all those pcbs and parts to such a small box and than put buttons and encoders on top, that should be a hell of the job, right?

    it is, we are diving into artisan work here

    3. I'm planing to make front panel from acrylic plate, with square hole for buttons. Does anyone know some easy way how to make those holes???

    yes! with a CNC machine

    4. Are some orange LCDs outhere Huh :-)

    crystalfontz make them iirc

  12. Welcome to the first world

    in Miscellaneous

    Posted

    hi

    I just wanted to share with you this nice picture of our (Canary Islands, a province of the European and first world country Spain) representant for the central Council of the city (Santa Cruz de Tenerife), aka Maribel Oñate, while she was attending at the local Mac Donalds dresses up as a waiter. The cause was, 20th of November, International day of the child, an ONU event, the collect of funds for blablabla (who cares), with the sponsorship of this very well known corporate.

    Now anybody could explain to me how does it come that one of our democratically elected politicians could even think or imagine to go to a mac donalds, dress up as waiter and serve big macs right  in the very international day of the child?

    I AM UTTERLY PISSED, as a father, as a citizen, as a MDIBoxer.

    I am just using this channel to spread the news aka spam, sorry.

    20noviembredamundialdelhh6.jpg

  13. My efforts with rubber / silicone buttons

    in Design Concepts

    Posted

    yes: i have a dealer about 30 kms from my place in Denmark, it s 50 euro per kilo, but i won t be there before next may..

    I gues you can get something in the states, and get it shipped to Canada.

    I would first try to do as i ve said before: applying many layers one by one, that will also help the diffusion of light.

    Consider how much your buttons will stick out of the panel and apply a first layer that thick or just a bit more, that will keep the look ok.

    Remember that cheap silicone gets yellowish with time but i bet you know already.

    And no no way to get that stuff dry without air.

    Simone

  14. My efforts with rubber / silicone buttons

    in Design Concepts

    Posted

    hi

    i ve gone this way already, are you aware that after the first layer will dry up, the inner part of the silicone will never get any air, hence won t dry ? (never), it s like if it was still in the can.That s why we should use bicomponent silicone, which cures chemically.

    But, you can try to do it step by step, like first filling just a bit of the moulding, let cure, add some more etc etc, that may work.

    Simone

  15. I want to help with documenting! Can someone give me a job to do?

    in MIDIbox Documentation Project

    Posted

    I'm jobless and I just ordered my first kit from smash and waiting for it to get here. Until it does I have some time and i want to give back to the community.... Can anyone give me a job to do around here. I've read ucapps and lots of the wiki and I figured the best way to learn more would be to help with some documentation? Keep in mind that I don't have any phyisical experience with the MBHP.

    But is there any task maybe with the wiki that someone needs help with???

    Phil

    You could finish all the projects i never finished..

    :0

    just Simone

  19. GM5: Least-cost USB-MIDI Interface Chip for 4.50 EUR

    in Bulk Orders

    Posted

    1/2 Channels??? You should see 5 MIDI IO Ports if J1/J2/J3 are connected to ground (default)

    If you only see a single MIDI IO Port regardless of the J1/J2/J3 selection, check that Pin #25 is properly connected to ground. If you are unsure, solder Pin #25, and #5/#6/#7 again

    Best Regards, Thorsten.

    hi Thorsten

    i have the jumpers set to 2 I/Os

    i rechecked all those pins and they all go to GND.

    driver is recognized as supposed in the Audio-Midi setup (OSX)

    Simone

    EDIT: i didn t have time to check it out but i had a revelation: 0 stands for connected to GND. :-[

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