HL-SDK

haha damn... I wish I saw this before buying 17 sound blaster cards from ebay... If my math is right I can sell for $8 each... or somewhere thereabouts. I'll let you all know when they go on ebay. No direct orders

silicone is like jelly rubber, Silicon is semiconductor, layers of silicon dioxide are grown into wafers at VERY high temperatures when they make transistors and all. Your sid should last quite some time. Actually, It's be an interesting experiment to see. The first transistor ever made probably still works so this should as well! Just dont roast it :-D

MY build log is about 6 or 7 months old. Still stick at same point wiring display. Once I do that, I can finish wiring front panel and code my custom buttons... Bah. Added bankstick. SOOO EASY. It's just one chip, but it's hanging right off main board. I urge everyone to get one.

I also noticed that since the SID has 5 pins for register selection, and one shift register output is used for reset, so there is a gap of nonsense bits :-p This is getting tough to do in whatever code I am using now. IT's also tough because for some reason, you guys like complicating stuff with serial ;D Anyway, what I'm doing now is finding a way I can write hex out through USB serial, have it interpreted and sent over into the SID. Then I might write some processing program or MAX or whatever to tell the sid what to do. However TK managed to pull off Midibox, I may never know.

Your explanation was simple and elegant, thank you very much for the help!! (damn sid needing 2 power supplies) Good thing I have +12, +5, and -12 all on the same breadboard ;-D

Ok, so I am learning how to write code for the wiring and arduino boards, and I have a sid module laying around. I want to interface with it like TK's amazing PIC does, but first I have to know how the shift registers are written to. What is the process that the CORE writes to the SID module? Also, what is this MU, and SO connection for? I'd just go for a parallel interface but the sid won't stay on my breadboard, it pops out, and anyway, the module is nice and clean :-p

IT's good to hear back about this project :-D The concussor modules from analogue solutions are pretty good synth modules. They take a trigger in and transform it into a drum :-D I have their SY02 Multimode filter sitting right here next to me, and IT's pretty good, I just havent heard their drum voice modules. Cool!

This is a generic SmashTV Core board, no other modules, it is soldermasked, double layered, but you would need to supply other boards (like ain for pot controls). Yes, you can use it for any MIDIBox project :-D

So I ended up building 2 of SmashTV's core board kits, and it also happens that I have 2 working PICs. I am building one SID so.... I have an extra working PCB and PIC all together with headers for LCD, strobe pin, SID extension, and a DIN. The only "error" is that the voltage regulator is soldered on top of the board instead of through. The board is also on about 1" standoffs. All of this for $28 + $2 handling + shipping. Price is somewhat negotiable. Lemme know where you live and how you want it shipped so I can tell you how much it is. --EDIT Pictures available on request.

9432 Pleasant mill way is residential 1 Industry HWY is business :-p I ordered a few samples, but I bet I'll be turnd down due to residential area :(

Hmmm Too bad it isn't 1megohm with no pressure, 1kohm with super pressure... *sigh* But this would rock for what it's made for! And ribbon controllers!

1/8 watt is fine if they are pullup resistors. Anyone disagree? let's see... .125 is 1/8 watt so... I=V/R 5V / 10000 = .0005 ^volts ^resistance ^current Each resistor lets through .5mA (amirite?) P=IV .005 * 5 = .025 ^I ^V ^P (watts) Each resistor dissapates .025 watts, 5 times less than the max of a 1/8th watt Yep. I hope.

I am a whore for IDC and headers, which is what I have used EVERYWHERE :-p (something I'm proud of thinking of so I can remove certain parts should it fail ater its all done) My soldering skills are terrible, I have tried cutting and putting the wires in the connecter individually, but I get shorts so I am ordering some new connectors so I can retry (and use them in other projects) Anyway, thanks for the information!

wow man, that is super cheap! Have you used it because I cant tell from the picture weather it has 1 or 2 rows of those connection pads things... You know what I'm talking about... where you connect it to the core. The problem is that my LCD makes it very hard to wire one of those 16 pin headers because the core board and the lcd connect things in a different order. If it were just one row it'd be fine. Also, what does it mean that it needs an EL inverter? backlight driver?

I have 2 working LCD displays BUT...... They are in 2 rows and hard as HELL for me to wire... I have been trying and retrying and I'd really like to go the easy way so: Has anyone found a 20x2 character LCD with one row of pads on mouser? Or just in general?