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buhler

Programmer
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Posts posted by buhler

  1. 1. are you using the RF modulator or the RCA outs?

    2. trace the video line from the RCA to the video encoder IC (usually the first one you come to from the video out or the RF modulator) and replace the caps along that trace.  there's generally only one or two there any how, so no big deal.

    if you are using the RF modulator, you may need to open that up and fix it BUT the RF modulator (no matter how great the caps) is gonna have the poorest video quality any way so no use.

    as far as knowing what caps, learn to identify them.

  2. Well, you won't die tomorrow from solder fumes today...

    but spend several hours sucking them in and you may well have a headache to deal with :(  Build a fume vent if you can.

    you might as well vent your bedroom while you're at it... supposedly the amount of CO2 you expel while you sleep can be hazardous as well. ::)

  3. A nice outlook for the future is, that Microchip still considers pin compatible devices. The MBHP started with a PIC16F877, in the meantime PIC18F452 is used, and for memory intensive projects like MIDIbox SEQ V3 or MIDIbox SID V2 the PIC18F4620/PIC18F4685. So long this upgrade path is given, a switch to another microcontroller family (like Atmel devices) with all it's advantages, but also disadvantages, is not required, and hard/software compatible applications can still be expected in the next years.

    from the uCapps site concerning the core module.

  4. Is there enough interest for me to start a Mini-Sale? Anyone? Anyone? Buhler? Buhler? Anyone? If you guys are interested, I'll need to slap up a wiki page.

    why do you tempt me so frailin?!?!  i already have one AY38912... and an ungodly amount of SID's, POKEY's and all the OPL chips...  i sort of have the fear i may not be able to get the IC's sometime in the future. ::)  anyhow, with that logic... i guess i could go for another! ;D

  5. Has anyone ever asked if they can do a run of 20 character displays? maybe we would be lucky :)

    20 characters would be lovely, i'm scared of my PLED's now because Wilba keeps telling me they're gonna break soon.... :(

  6. all i can say is that i built my MBSid V2 with a Step whatever is the minimal CS with 2 SID's, and i'm already regretting it...  not that it's bad, it's just that there are soooo many parameters that i would like to tweak at any given time and MIDI CC's are not my strong point.  ;) ::) :P  point being, i think that anything custom or AT LEAST the Step C is the best way to go when talking about control surfaces.  i'd definitely like to upgrade eventually, but that's just me! ;D  /me gives 2¢

  7. I ask this only because after reading Foona's post...

    http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10805.75.html

    ... it appeared that his Optimized PSU was causing him quite a bit of grief.  I am trying to simplify the building process as much as possible in order to minimize the probability of error and would appreciate any feedback on this topic.

      foona's grief was him moving too fast.. ;)  if you have a very reliable C64 PSU and you do exactly as the schematic for OPSU says, you should be fine.  the OPSU takes all of about 15min to build and is super easy.

    So... if the optimized PSU is not necessary, what is the simplest solution?

    that's easy, two PSU's that match the two necessary voltages...  it's no fun having two wallwarts etc, but if that's the way you wanna go, then that's the easiest route.

  8. same outputs from the CORE to the second SID module.

    this is what pops up as a red flag to me...  i'm not totally sure but i would assume you would have problems if you connect 2 SIDs exactly the same way.  secondly, what version of SID app are you running?  V2 or V1?  this could also lead to issues if you connect a second SID.

  9. I get it but still i dont see how you couldn't change and LFO for instance with just buttons because you couldn't change it at just the speed you wanted but get close.. oh well :D

    buttons, believe it or not, are actually more accurate, encoders are more intuitive maybe...  it's a preference thing not a necessity thing.  you are referring to the interval between values that can be achieved and that would be the same with either encoder or buttons.  it's up to the hardware and the guy programming it.

  10. with things like buttons, LED's and Encoders, etc..  i would order WAY more than you think you need because you are most likely going to use them on other projects...  especially seeing as you've posted your build list a few times in other threads. ;)

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