JMS

would the bankstick be more of what you want here?

that is a sexy control panel!

might be this guy? http://www.chrisbethea.com/ http://www.myspace.com/ovenrecording UPDATE: i emailed that guy to see if he was the nes synth prototyper presentation person... will post an update when i hear back.

ehhh, not me...

i only found a reich something across the pond and a generic parts list that i printed from the schematic, maybe i have overlooked it? EDIT: i just found this... http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/core_board_parts_list

ohh.. i think i forgot to mention i got all my parts in from mouser... if anyone notices anything i picked that may be wrong, let me know! because i am about to start assembling and i'd like to know if i need to re-order something before i start... a list of some parts for the midibox_core with part #'s for mouser in the US: Mouser #: 517-6221TG Mfr. #: 2380-6221TG Desc.: .100" Pin Strip Headers 80P STRT 2 ROW GOLD Mouser #: 517-6111TG Mfr. #: 2340-6111TG Desc.: .100" Pin Strip Headers 40P STRT 1 ROW GOLD Mouser #: 161-0505 Mfr. #: 161-0505 Desc.: DIN Jacks 5 PIN DIN PCB Mouser #: 531-PT6KV-10K Mfr. #: PT6KV-103A2020 Desc.: Trimmer Potentiometers 10Kohms 6mm Rnd Top adj Mouser #: 625-W08G-E4 Mfr. #: W08G-E4/51 Desc.: Bridge Rectifiers 1.5 Amp 800 Volt Mouser #: 78-1N4148 Mfr. #: 1N4148-TR Desc.: Switching Diodes 100V Io/150mA T/R Mouser #: 140-HTRL16V2200-RC Mfr. #: 140-HTRL16V2200-RC Desc.: Hi-Temp Radial Electrolytic Capacitors 16V 2200uF 105C Mouser #: 140-HTRL25V10-RC Mfr. #: 140-HTRL25V10-RC Desc.: Hi-Temp Radial Electrolytic Capacitors 25V 10uF 105C Mouser #: 140-100N5-330J-RC Mfr. #: 140-100N5-330J-RC Desc.: Ceramic Disc Capacitors 100V 33pF NPO 5% Tol Mouser #: 80-C320C334M5U Mfr. #: C320C334M5U5TA Desc.: Conformally Coated Radial Ceramic Capacitors 50volts 0.33uF 20% Z5U Mouser #: 80-C412C104K5R Mfr. #: C412C104K5R5TA Desc.: Conformally Coated Axial Ceramic Capacitors 50volts .1uF 10% X7R 10% Mouser #: 291-100-RC Mfr. #: 291-100-RC Desc.: 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistors 100ohms 0.05 Mouser #: 291-220-RC Mfr. #: 291-220-RC Desc.: 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistors 220ohms 0.05 Mouser #: 291-1K-RC Mfr. #: 291-1K-RC Desc.: 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistors 1Kohms 0.05 Mouser #: 291-1.2K-RC Mfr. #: 291-1.2K-RC Desc.: 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistors 1.2Kohms 0.05 Mouser #: 291-5.6K-RC Mfr. #: 291-5.6K-RC Desc.: 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistors 5.6Kohms 0.05 Mouser #: 291-10K-RC Mfr. #: 291-10K-RC Desc.: 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistors 10Kohms 0.05 Mouser #: 512-BC337TF Mfr. #: BC337TF Desc.: Small Signal Transistors NPN Si Transistor Epitaxial Mouser #: 571-1-390261-2 Mfr. #: 1-390261-2 Desc.: IC Sockets 8P ECONOMY TIN Mouser #: 782-6N138 Mfr. #: 6N138 Desc.: Optocouplers HG Photodarlington Mouser #: 512-LM7805CT Mfr. #: LM7805CT Desc.: Linear Regulators 1A Pos Vol Reg Mouser #: 73-XT49S1000-20 Mfr. #: XT9S20ANA10M Desc.: HC-49/S Microprocessor Crystals 10MHz 20pF Mouser #: 571-1-390262-5 Mfr. #: 1-390262-5 Desc.: IC Sockets 40P ECONOMY TIN

foona, i drew my adapter up in CAD, just curious about what prog. you used to design your adapter board... here's a screenshot of the cad file (all i have so far)

that looks nice! that's about what mine will look like when i get my cnc back together and cut one... oh and i gotta find some pinheader strips because they have the ones i ordered last week on B/O until next month.. geez ;) i may just end up cutting off one row of a two row header and using that...

arcade controls -> 10k, 90 degrees of movement... they aren't cheap though... still looking for another source that isn't mil-spec-extra-expensive-so-teenagers-don't-break-your-arcade-machine kinda prices... cimo, i have been toying with PCB, eagle is pretty close to working with autocad to which i am kinda partial. kicad is something i have not looked at yet, though i do have it installed. i really like eagle's "type what you want to do" process for building schematics, no icons!

word... i found out that the pickit 2 does do HVP, and i only need to add a switch (or jumper) to my adapter board on the pin 38 (RB5) to make it capable of HVP or LVP. (at work right now and the adapter board drawing is at home.

i use the pencil tool in gimp (free) for quick sketches.. then i'd use qcad (free) if you don't have access to Autocad to do a drawing with dimensions.

if my grey matter imprint is right a single pot is two single variable resistors at 180 degrees of each other and the wiper connects to both traces on the center pin? the board needs some work, i have yet to figure out the creation of traces. (i need to read more of the help file) so the board isn't needed anyways but i was playing around trying to understand eagle better and went ahead and tried to do a board. you might need to swap the rear pins if the voltage readout is backwards. like move 2 to pin 3 on the back half and pin2 on the back half to jp3 on the board. EDIT: I may be crazy and this won't do what i think it would do... i don't have one laying around to try it out? but hey at least i learned how to use almost everything in eagle.

ahhh, i see, not so simple. would a dual gang pot fit in the pedal? would pins 1-2 from front half and pins 2-3 of the back half work with pin 2 on the back jumpered to pin 1 of the front?

cut pin 3 off, bend pin 2 away from the board, use a small jumper wire from pin 2 into pin 3's hole on the board?

i was chatting on irc in #electronics (freenode) and someone had a brilliant idea to make this thing be 0-10k ohms from 0-90 degrees movement... so i guess what the deal is.. pots with less than 200/270 degrees of movement are a special order or custom manufacture kinda thing? (someone tell me i'm wrong on that and they are very common!) but uh cimo, there you go! use a 33k pot? 33,000ohms/270degrees = 122.222ohms per degree ---> 122.222ohms * 90 degrees = 11k (so it's more like 82 degrees that we need for the FRANKENPOT built with a 33k pot)

i made a prototype bracket today at work, brought it home and drilled a hole to mount the pot. in the side, rigged up an arm on it. i'll be looking into finding some 90 degrees pots soon... i also went to harbor freight tools right down the street from me and looked for springs, all they had was a 200 pc. kit of a bunch of different springs and i don't need 200 springs right now so i'll just buy 1 or two springs from somewhere online. i'll take a pic when i get frankenpot-prototype-v2 done! if anyone is interested in one or two of these maybe i can do a small number production run on them?

... there is some pots that only have limited travel with full range i believe. i should look into this... 90 degrees would be do-able with zero at 45 or zero at zero. this type of design would work with rotary multi-switches as well. the hole through whatever panel it's mounted behind can be just like a fader slot.

ok, so like my machine MIGHT do the panel, i have yet to cut a pc of cardboard with the right dimensions and play with the machine (my z axis is apart right now awaiting a new motor coupler. ) all things considered it would be best if i don't attempt a whole panel on this machine. i can however drill holes and mill cutouts for people if they don't have the tools. as for me arranging a big load of panels done with a laser or something that might be possible since there is a few laser cutting shops very close to me (at least 3 within 10 miles, maybe more like 6) and i actually have parts laser cut all the time for work and even designed a few parts myself that went straight from my CAD file (dxf) to the laser machine at the cutters! i get a kick out of that everytime a part comes back ;) just a thought, sometimes laser cutting is fast and cheap... sometimes it is fast and expensive. think modular synths if you want panels out of my baby cnc mill for DIY labor prices ;) when i get the Z axis back together i'll cut a sample modular sort of panel and post pics.

if you got some krafting skills and a few chunks of material and two springs you could make this. i smiled when i read about your FRANKENFADER idea and it inspired this design using a potentiometer. i am gonna draw this up in cad with real dimensions i think and build 1 or a few for my midibox project... i know it looks like a 3 year old drew this but i did it in 3 minutes with the pencil tool and paintbrush tool for fill in gimp at a crappy resolution. it's only a rough idea.. the 3d cad is where i make it look sexy. thanks for the inspiration, awesome idea ;)!

i can probably come up with something using a regular pot, a plastic wheel (lexan sounds like a good idea, it could be lit up as well) for a knob and a bracket which attaches to the pot base with a spring. i'd need to know what kind of space constraints you have and how you would be mounting it all. i'm pretty handy with crafting things when i have the inspiration... ;) and i have a small cnc mill here. also, i could cut the wheel out of almost anything (within reason) at work like plastic, aluminum, steel... all this would be really easy to do without the spring loaded option but still do-able with spring loading depending on the torque of the pot and the spring of the spring.

so doing LVP on the bootloader with a pickit2 burn, then popping the pic into the midibox to program the rest of it through MIOS won't work? (i found that LVP is enabled from the factory and that you need to turn it off somewhere in code. i could be wrong as i have not actually tried any of this yet.)

i just recently bought a pickit2 for my midibox project and i realized i would have to make an adapter board to conntect to the pic chip. so if you need it, i have a LVP programming adapter designed for the pickit2 to 40 pin ic socket. i haven't cut a board yet to try because my z axis on the cnc is dis-assembled right now while making a new motor/leadscrew coupler. but i had some people in # electronics look over the pinouts of my board and it "should" work. :)

pure data is cake to program awesome things, can jack into just about anything (especially in linux) and it's free!

Sasha, the driver is based on a ucn5804b chip and it's called "sp3" from stepperworld.com i bought it years ago, i haven't seen this exact model on the site for a while they do have others that may be better (i picked this driver because it was simple to install, more so than the others i had looked at.) it's using the same pc power supply for the 3 stepper motors and the driver board. frailn, i'm not sure what material that's made of... so that's a BIG maybe on that question. however if you wanna layout the holes on the box with a sharpie or draw up a layout on paper with exact dimensions, i can get the job done at work. (full machine shop setup) i can't offer to work for free but i'd go with some midibox project only cheap labor/machine time for anyone who wants to pay shipping to get whatever to me and back, heck even across the pond. I can engrave text or dial markings on tags with this little cnc for anything 4"x6" or smaller if anyone's looking for that sort of thing, which is why i built this machine really, engraving is a hobby of mine. i wish every time i start this thing up that i had built it bigger though, i'm already collecting parts for machine 2!

thanks for doing the embed thing stryd, i wasn't sure if it was ok so i went with a link to be safe. i'm working on an icsp adapter board to get the bootloader on a pic. i have yet to look at the code for midibox in depth to find this out, but where do i set the lvp=off for the pic? is it in the code for the bootloader? so say i program the bootloader on the pic with my pickit2+homebrew 40 pin adapter... how do i turn lvp off once i can program the chip through midiOS so i have use of the rb5 pin on the pic18f452? does the bootloader program turn off lvp?