sakodak

Yeah, that's why I said "I have no idea what's fair." Make an offer.

I'd like to get at least $400 out of it, I'm sure I put in more than twice that, all things considered -- but I have no idea what's fair. I can check all the invoices -- most of them are still in the box with all the stuff.

Sold to Stewart below. I have most of the parts for a MB-6582 that have, unfortunately, been sitting and collecting dust for quite a while. I didn't want to start on it until I had all the parts sourced, and I got hung up on the case and faceplates. Regardless, I've lost momentum and I don't even play much music anymore anyway, so I'm looking to recover some of the money I spent on parts and give someone else the opportunity. So, per the rules I'm asking for permission do to so. Thanks. Parts: 8x 6582A SID chips (purchased directly from Wilba) 14x black and red knobs (the hard to find ones that Wilba used) 14x rotary encoders w/ detents removed 1x rotary encoder w/ detent 48x push buttons from mouser (688-SKHHDT) MB6582 KIT A w/ PIC Base PCB CS PCB 2 bags of red LEDs from Smash 1 bag of green LEDs from Smash midi jack pcb from Smash red/black LCD panel (I paid way too much -- I got the serial version because the non-serial red/black was out of stock.) Basically, everything except the case, faceplates and power supply. http://i.imgur.com/AJBIi.jpg Sad to see it go, but it's gotta go.

My wife tells me the knobs arrived at the house today. I haven't seen them yet, but thanks! (I'm stuck at work.)

Thank you for the update Goblinz. Sorry you're having a difficult time, and sorry if I added to it -- hopefully you can understand the concern. If there's anything I can do to make things easier on you, don't hesitate to let me know.

I think it's perfectly fair to express discomfort when more than a month ago he said he'd start sending them "first thing" two weeks from then, and the whole transaction has so far taken more than half a year. I understand that he isn't Amazon, but I think that it's time to start asking questions. Maybe there are legitimate reasons it's taking so long, and that's OK, but I hope you can understand why I (and apparently others) are a bit concerned. Every other experience I've had dealing with people in the midibox community has been a pleasurable one, and I have no desire to raise a big stink, but I'd like to at least see a picture of the knobs with Goblinz's username on a piece of paper or something, so we at least know he's got them. I'm still giving the benefit of the doubt, but I have no desire to see my money walk away (and worse, not get those yummy knobs) without asking a few questions.

I'm more than a little uncomfortable now. It's been 8 months. I've kept quiet because, hey, things happen, but this is getting ridiculous.

I could use one.

I have them as PDFs. I emailed them to you. Also, did you used to hang out at a Korg Triton forum?

Ok, yeah, hydrogen peroxide is a bleaching agent, but (at least in my experience) the word "bleach" is reserved for chlorine bleach. And now the word "bleach" has ceased to look right to me because I'm typing it so much. Regardless, this is pretty good news to me.

I know you're joking, but it's not quite as simple as that. The yellowing process is due to oxidation of the bromine that's added to ABS as a fire retardant. This process actually reverses the chemical reaction that causes the yellowing. It's a restorative process, not a cleaning process. Also, H202 isn't bleach. :p The ability to restore ABS is kind of a big deal -- for years and years the commonly held wisdom is that there was no solution to the problem and you either had to 1) paint over it carefully or 2) live with it. This process is the holy grail of old computer collectors that want to restore their collections to their out-of-the-box state. Granted, not everyone will want to, but at least now it's a viable option.

Yeah, these guys don't recommend going above 15% H2O2 for exactly those reasons. Even at that concentration you need to exercise caution -- wear eye protection, etc.

I figured you guys would appreciate this: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/ These guys came up with a home-brew way to completely eliminate the yellowing in old plastic. Make your 64 cases look as good as new. I know I'm gonna try this on my old stuff as soon as I can get a hold of some xantham gum. Edit: this only works with fire-retardant ABS, not PET, and could damage PET type plastics. ONLY USE THIS METHOD ON ABS.

I have to finish the build first! :)

The bezel will be on the back? [me=sakodak]raises hand[/me] Could you put the bezel on the front, and then machine down the holes so that the switches protrude? I think that could look awesome. You could do the same for the knobs and LCD panel (not so much for the LED holes). It would probably be too expensive, though :(

Hey, I did it, you can too. The Paia manuals are amazing. I had delusions of creating a Paia-like manual for the mb-6582, but I don't know if I've got the patience for it. Wilba somehow gets tons of 6582s. The ones I got from him were marked CSG and manufactured in 1992. What gets me is that he gets them from some warehouse in Texas, then they ship to him in AU, then back to me in the US, about 600 miles from where they originated. I feel kind of guilty from a "green" standpoint. I'm a raging liberal, though. :) Anyway, my point is that if you want 6581s you're probably going to have to pull them from old breadbox 64s, and you run the risk of them being defective. (And some would say 6581s are too noisy anyway -- but even Bob Yannes said he never got the noise floor low enough for his tastes. For me it's all about the grit, but 6582s are gritty enough.)

I did a Fatman a while back, you can see pics here: http://www.argonautnetworks.com/smil/?album=/projects/paia/

Woot. I'm on this like a sorority girl on a rich dude.

Approximate costs are all well and good, but you'll find you run into issues similar to: I wanted a red LCD, so I ended up paying $75USD for one. You could buy a blue one for as little as $10USD. Front panels can cost as little as $25USD if you've got a friend who can do it all the way up to a couple hundred, depending on where you have them made. These sorts of things skews the cost quite a bit. Yeah, it takes a lot of work to figure it all out -- but all of us have done it, and it's different each time. Sorry there's not a concrete answer for you, but that's just the nature of the beast. Just wait until you start trying to source parts....

Some project suggestions for those unused ultrabrights: 1) Egg candling station. 2) Blinding machine. 3) Model airplane runway (this one isn't actually a bad idea, if you fly models, that is.) 4) Replace the IR LED in some remotes and then insist that you can't see the flashing light when your significant other complains about it being so bright. 5) You've always wanted your very own LED score board, right? Handy for keeping track of who's winning those arguments with the SO. 6) Build an LED sign to put in your front window to tell the neighbors what you really think. 7) Ground effects for your classic Pinto.

I bought red and green LEDs with the intention of doing the matrix (and maybe power) in green and everything else in red. The kicker is that I'm slightly red/green colorblind so I can't tell the difference. I'll have to be very careful and have my wife help me. :) Should be fun.

Where'd you find the LCDs Goblinz?

Nobody is going to make fun of you for having red LEDs with a blue display :) -- besides, it's much easier to change a display out (if you ever run across a red LCD) than it is to change out a bunch of LEDs.

Yeah. If you're really going to do blue, you might want to get samples of a few and set up some tests before you buy quantity. If you have a local electronics store they may be able to help you too. I know those are few and far between these days, though. :( I was going to try and help you find a non-bright blue LED, but they're damn near impossible to find. The only thing I can find when searching for dim blue LEDs are people complaining that their super-duper-ultra-bright blue LED is too dim.

That says "Ultrabright" right in the item title. "Pack of 100 3mm Blue LED Diffused Lens 60 Degrees 2000mcd Ultrabright"