clem!

hi ansolas, some years ago I realized a software based microtuning processor on the Atari ST for the old Yamaha FB 01. This supported something like "note on with friction" which was based on four bytes I think the third byte was microtune or friction which divides a halftone into 128 microtones. I think there might be some other yamaha synths like dx7 and perhaps sy77 that suopport this. Another possibility is to use something like dynamic midi channel swapping to split the midi events on different midi channels. clem!

hi rosch, first project is to build a controller with the full length of a keybord with 61 standard keys for my keyboardcontroller-midification-project. That means 10 k at ~86 cm. But "I have a dream" for the next project - of building a continuus-polyphonic-velocity-sensitive-(midi)-controller (schoene Wortkreation) for small money like the continuum at haken audio which costs megas. Maybe we can find s.t. like graphite-cotton ;) mmh. So let´s test everything we can find and put the information together. clem!

Hi all, found another one - this is as somewhere else told a scotch consumer one. Manufacturer; Format; Type; Resistance per 10 cm; Scotch; VHS; EXG+; 37 K; looks much better! clem!

First samples of video-tapes: Manufacturer; Format; Type; Resistance per 10 cm; Panasonic; MII; AU-M60L; 11 M; Panasonic; S-VHS; XD; 4,3 M; Sony; Betacam SP; BCT-30MA 4,6 M; Panasonic; S-VHS; SE-30; 7,8 M; Kodak; VHS; HS-E240; 2,3 M; TDK; VHS; E-240TV; -; TDK; VHS; EHG; -; Akai; VHS; HQ; -; Agfa; VHS; S-HGX; -;

first pic of the mounted wheels and the whole case without bottom and top

Hi all! What about starting little experiments with alternate controllers and sensors. Maybe at first we can sample the resistance of different video tapes (I´ve found some old panasonic ones), we can also measure adhesive metal tapes or other materials like different graphit-finishs and put the´samples together into a database. Don´t know if this is the right place to do that - any suggestions. Hope there´s s.o. else.

Hallo, Doepfer selber sagt, dass die Spannung mit den linearen 10K Potis (von denen nur 40% ausgenutzt werden) nur zwischen 0 und 1,6 V geregelt wird. Wenn ich das richtig verstehe, muss ich dann entweder die Potis durch 90 Grad Versionen ersetzen und ggfs. den Code anpassen oder eine Mimik mit OPs um die Potis herum bauen!? Schoene Gruesse

Here are some pictures to document the process. Here is one of the again working LCD. Here another one of the place where the dead wingman wheel will take place. ;) Here another of the wingmanwheel. I think red buttons and knobs will do it.

OK - nach den Hinweisen, hatte diese Frage bereits in parts geposted und bis jetzt keine Antworten bekommen, hier der Link: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=13112.0

Tach zusamm. Kann man die, welche man selber zusammenbasteln muss, fuer 10 EUR direkt an einen Core V3 anschließen oder muss ich die irgendwie modifizieren? Ich möcht ungerrn 20 EUR zahlen und dann sowieso basteln müssen - optisch sind die sowieso nicht so hip. Danke im voraus

mmh - nobody? - think I have to post it in german.

hi, who has sampled experience with the doepfer wheels? I mean those which u must put together by yourself for 10 EUR. Are they about 90 degree and 10kohms over this range, or have I to exchange the pots? don´t wanna "set 10 EUR into the sand" ;-) Where can I buy those 90 degree pots in .de.

mmh - I smell it, too. but it wasn´t the problem. I´ve checked every soldering and found a missing wire at the lcd, as I told there were still midi-out signals without display showing anything, when I turned pot left. This evening shot a telephone with a display at ibay for 1 EUR, hope this will work better and I can use the switches and perhaps a part of the housing. will fetch it tomorrow. Yes the smell gets stronger - it´s the Lötkolben don´t know in english. (soldering-iron?)

hi all, I´ve build a little circuit with two ICs so that I can connect up to 16 switches (perhaps an old phone must die for the switches). The incrementor is still working too. I have changed the midibox64.hex to a self compiled one with unmuxed AIN and put a first pot to AIN. At the first glance it seems to work fine ... but than I turned the pot low - and if the value runs under 16 the display dies and if I turn the pot back to the right I only see a black beam like at the startup. Midi is working correctly. Tried also the oiginal hex and reloaded Mios but that didn´t help. :-( clem!

In the meantime I´ve put the wooden parts of the case together. Mios and midimon is up and running on the box and after some connectivity-problems the display from the add-two is working too. I´ve destroyed the contacts a little bit at unsoldering from the Dynacord which is real "german-worth-work" from the 80th.

I can´t say that I´m familiar with it, but I had some contact to it very long ago (68000) - maybe there is somewhere a book. So I can connect the buttons directly to the RCs and RDs?

hi stryd_one, as told above I want to get some master-keyboard-control-possibilitys. Out of this reason I want to save J5 for the analog pots. I can´t find an instruction of how to connect digital switches and buttons to the core V3. But I wanted to connect an incrementor and 2 or more buttons to make prg and channel changes and maybe s.t. more. Meanwhile I´ve tested the core - the soldering doesn´t look perfect but it seems to work :-). And the raw-case of the keyboard is ready. Perhaps I will make some pics of the keyboard and the controls at the weekend.

Hi all, On saturday I´ve got the core-kit-V3 and soldered it yesterday. Looks fine. Now I have to test it. But there comes the first Question: Is it possible to use the connectors J8 and J6 (RD0 and RC1 from the PIC) to connect a testbutton as DIN? Greetings clem!

Hi all, after a few years in the corner of my room I want to rebirth my really very old Böhm (maybe Fatar?) 61-key keyboard add a new better looking vintage case (with wood) and offer it some masterkeyboard functionality. OK here is the story: In the 70th my elder brother had build up an e-piano (from the Elektor-schematics) into a Böhm organcase (really ugly!!). This e-piano never worked completly and sounded horrible. In the 80s I needed a midi-keyboard but had no money and so I took this case with the keyboard and added Doepfer LMK2. And there was a really nice to play waterfall-like-dynamic keyboard that works fine - but had no additional controls and since I had another keyboard I didn´t need it any more. What I want to do: At first I want some basic controls: modulation wheel/pedal pitch-wheel volume-fader/pedal sustain-pedal/connector buttons for prg up and down a display that shows the program-number at second: first let´s look if it works Yesterday I´ve ordered a core-module-kit from Mike and hope that this is enough for the first steps. ;-) maybe I can add some parts of a broken ADD-two perhaps the display the LED and the incrementor. Let´s see clem!