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Shuriken

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Posts posted by Shuriken

  1. heheh, yes, it can be driving one mad... :)

    - a high-end solution (which i did not have the money for) would be a digital mixing deck with an integrated audio interface for every channel... but it is costly (ca 2k for yamaha 1v96v2). Offers nifty features...

    - a lower-end solution would be to upgrade to a many-channel audio interface, there are relatively cheap ones with up to 16 channels 96khz/24bit, but you have to do everything on your pc/mac then.

    - i did not see too many problems with adding another bit of analog audio path to reduce the number of channels to a recordable quantity... but an audio purist will avoid that, ofc :)

    I don't think i deserve a high-end solution yet. And besides i am not willing to spend 2k. I did see a second hand Korg 168RC for sale with an RME adat card for 400 euro. The Korg is a full digital desk. But it's way old 1996-1998. So not sure if its worth spending money on it.

  2. Hm, you could keep the interface and invest in a mixer with dedicated sub-busses, which you can record and to which you can switch your instruments by the push of a few buttons. I did long research and for me it was a good solution ;-) :rolleyes:

    Ofcourse i have a mixer. Not sure if that's the best solution for recording as it's adding another analog audio path. I did loads of research as well. It's starting to drive me mad :tongue:

  3. I was curious what most of you guys use for recording songs. I have a Phonic 302 Firewire interface, but with 2 channels it can't quite keep up with my growing synth collection.

    So i am in the market for something new. Not sure which direction to go yet.

  4. I am by no means an expert on this matter. But i tested my own SIDs last week with a SammichSID i borrowed from a collegue. You can sometimes hear some minute differences in volume levels between different 8580. However i have a 6581R3 and a 6581R4 and the volume level on one of those (can't remember which one) is a lot lower.

  5. Technically it works with any app supporting hardsid. Unless of course the hardsid fellas changed the spec again...

    I couldn't get it to play nice with a SammichSID and GM5 module. But since the Sammich was a loaner i didn't put to much effort in it. ASID was working fine.

  6. Depends on how much space you got on your board. I'd stay off tantalums unless they are *really* needed since they have this tendency to self-incinerate every once in a while. If you can, I'd say use low ESR Sanyo or Nichicon electrolytic caps instead.

    The datasheet, recommends using Panasonic HFQ (replaced with FC)series, Nichicon PL, Sanyo MV-GX or equivalent elcos. The recommended tantalums are hard to get and atleast here only available through mouser or digikey.

  7. It will be faster and not much more expensive i am guessing. Not sure about the last bit, but way sure on the first. I know your MB6582 has been covered on quite a lot of dust, so i think it would be a good idea to just order a psu.

    If you check the datasheets of LM2675 and LM2676 its not that complex. If you download the program LM267X Made Simple it will even calculate all the components. I checked if it was correct according to the formulas in the datasheet. And what do you know, it is correct :shifty:

    The problem is most components recommended are SMD. I looked for through hole stuff at reichelt....and still ended up with smd. For the caps you need low esr parts which are a bit more expensive.

  8. Yep including 3mm mounting holes, although I thought of forgoing it and just using an insulator on the bottom just because the holes account for 1/4th of the space :)

    By the way, Shuriken is correct - some of the switching regulators I found do indeed switch at 1MHz which is plenty. Looks like in order to get 9V, though, might have to get an adjustable regulator (which is the LM2675 Shuriken mentioned). to switch down to 9V. I suppose that's an option over using the 7809 in my setup, although 12 -> 9V for the SIDs probably isn't bad enough to be worried about heat (I'm going to secure it to the chassis anyway).

    The heat is probably not a problem. As the load is pretty low. But i figured will i was at it, make the whole thing completely switched. At 1A max it produces so little heat, it comes in a DIP8 or similar smd package. The pcb is very small if you go by the ref. design national semi gives you in the datasheet.

    The bigger 3A brother comes in a TO220 package but can be cooled with a small TO220 heatsink.

  9. Ah good point! I haven't totally decided yet on what I should do :) I am going to design the intermediate power board for the 7809 regulator for the SIDs and filtering caps to see how small I can make that. I suspect that won't take much space at all and would still be smaller than my original linear PSU design (based off your original design) and a lot more efficient power-wise.

    I have ordered a LM2675 for the 9V and a LM2676 for the 5V part. Since they are 90% efficient i don't expect much heat. Component choice is a bit more tricky then with a linear one though.

  10. Good tip. Lesson: assumption is the mother of all f***ups. I'm very glad until now I only inquired about prices because I was planning to order this morning; great timing dude! :thumbsup:

    I'll go ahead and dig into some datasheets then, basically anything switching above 50KHz (I know human ears often dont go beyond 22KHz but let's assume Philips knew what they were doing when deciding that 44.1KHz was the right bandwitdh to use when they developped the CD) is out of the audible spectrum, above 94KHz is out of the recording spectrum as well and thus (theoretically) better. Aside from the guys who record at 192KHz but I don't believe any switcher is that fast. Besides, if it really adds something to your recording to go to 192KHz/32bit instead of 94KHz/32bit is a whole different discussion.

    I am going to build a Switching PSU which uses 260kHz frequency. For modern switchers its even possible to do higher frequencies. 1mHz is achievable.

  11. Me likes! I didn't search very hard yet but found these 2: http://www.dil.nl/PartDetails.aspx?ProductID=ZPS30 and http://www.dil.nl/PartDetails.aspx?ProductID=ZPS4515. Have no idea about their switching freqency but one of these has been successfully used as a replacement PSU in a vintage amplifier I was told. But since those are EOL I might just go for the T40, seems to be perfectly right for what I want with it.

    The 45-15 one is a bad idea. According to the datasheet it needs active cooling. Looking at the datasheet it does looks like a dated design. Estimated Efficiency at full load is min 65%. Which isn't very high. Could very well be that the switching frequency is quite low. But can't find what it is.

    At the distributor you pay only 18.75 euro for the t-40 meanwell. Downside is they only sell to companies.

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