pingosimon

Niiiice! I'm jealous of your color scheme!

Oh hey, switching the power supply worked! That's weird...I wonder why a good power supply just broke all of a sudden. Thanks a lot!

Cool! I'll try to remember to follow this!

Nope, now it's broken. It was working perfectly for a couple minutes. I left it on and walked away for a few seconds, and when I came back, all the LEDs are off, and the LCD's backlight is on and all the pixels are activated. That happens every time I power it on. Should I make a new thread for this problem?

For the LEDs that don't work: have you tested them individually? Use a 5V source (for example, the spot on the main board where you plug int he power LED) and test them manually by connecting ground to the "flat side" lead of the LED and 5V tot he other lead. I make a 2-wire connector that is a connector on one end, and just loose wires on the other end.

I tried the three bottom 74HC595 sockets and found this out: (I'm using the 5V from the MB6582 baseboard now) On U22 (The 74HC595 that goes to JD7) I connected pin 8 to ground, pin 15 to 5V makes the whole LED matrix blink, but the bottom row still doesn't work. Same result whether or not an LED is connected to that bottom row, 3rd column slot. BUT Just to make sure, I used the 5V rail (from the MB6582 baseboard's power LED this time) to test the bottom row LEDs. As soon as I turned on one LED with this method, the whole row worked! I plugged the 74HC595 and the power LED back in, and it still works! I don't understand, but I'm glad to have a fully functional MB6582! Any idea what happened?

I'm getting the 5v from an optimized PSU that I built for another Midibox. You mean JD7/JD8, right? I'll try to figure that out when I get my next chunk of free time. The 3rd from the left. Nope, same result when there is no LED in place.

Nope, no short there.

If you got the kit from SmashTV, you got 4 different PIC chips with the following labels: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0001 0000 0000 0000 0002 0000 0000 0000 0003 The master (the slot closest to the power supply section needs tot be the chip ending in 0000.

uhh...embarrassing...I found the little line of solder that was shorting JD8 D6-D7. It was under the ribbon cable. I fixed it, and that was definitely the problem. Thanks so much! The bottom row of LEDs in the matrix is still broken, but I bet replacing that one broken LED will fix that. EDIT: Nope...this is weird: The LED itself wasn't broken. It's the bottom row, 3rd from the left. When the LED is soldered to the board, it doesn't work at all, even when I connect a 5v source directly to it. When I take the LED out of the board, it works just fine connected to the 5v source. I tried 3 different LEDs, all with the same result.

I think I've found the track for SID 1 2 3 4, but I can't find the one for the other four buttons. How exactly do I check for shorts there? There are no shorts between the two pins of any one LED. I tested all the LEDs in question. One of the LEDs in the bottom row of the matrix is broken, so I'll replace it. Also, when I light up SID 1, the Play LED lights up, SID 2 and Edit both light up, SID 3 and CC both light up, and SID 4 and Sync both light up.

Nah, that'd be too easy for this particular box. (It's the same one that's been giving me all sorts of problems). I disconnected the LCD and it's still acting weird. SID 1 2 3 seem to work fine. SID 4 selects SID 4, but it also brings me to the 'Ens Clock" menu. The Sync button selects SID 4, and opens the Ens Clock menu CC selects SID 3 and opens the Ens Clock menu Edit elects SID 2 and opens the Ens Clock menu Play selects SID 1 and opens the Ens Clock menu The bottom row of the LED matrix is still broken.

On my MB-6582, some of the buttons are being weird (Most noticeably SID 3 and 4, and sync and CC), and a whole row of LEDs is not working (the bottom row of the matrix). I tested all the connections between the baseboard and CS board and found the following shorts: JD1 - D0 D1, D3 D4 JD2 - D0 D1 D2 D3 JD3 - D3 D4 JD4 - D2 D3 D4 JD8 - D6 D7 As far as I can see, there's no reason for them to be shorted. The soldering is fine where I'm testing. I tried to trace back a few of the lines, but I don't really know enough to fix the problem that way. All the rotary encoders and the rest of the LEDs work.

Nice! What are you going to use for LCD protection, anyway? I've been wondering about that on mine.

I think I've decided that instead of using a 16 pin IDC connector for the LCD, I'd much rather just manually make an 8 pin, a 6 pin and a 2 pin, and connect it that way. I did that with my latest LCD and it'S working wonderfully.

I had a feeling it might also be electrostatic discharge. I do handle my LCDs a lot, due to constant testing. JRock, I've used a few different ones, all from crystalfontz.com. The first two were 2x20, the other that broke was 4x20.

ah ok...I did it a few times but they worked right after I corrected the problem. At this point I'd rather buy a new LCD than redo those connections again, so I'll just assume it's broken.

The LCD connected to my MB 6582 used to work fine. Today it started showing just boxes or lines. I completely rewired it, and now the backlight doesn't work, and jiggling wires doesn't really change it. When I plug my other LCD screen into the MB6582, it works fine. How fragile are these? This is the second or third LCD screen that's done this to me. I've accidentally plugged them in backwards before, but that doesn't seem to be the cause. Besides that, I've just been doing normal plugging and unplugging for testing purposes.

The build guide links to this but it's not very helpful. I have some right angle SIL headers, but I can't figure out how to do this given the tiny space between the board and the PT10 case. SmashTV doesn't seem to sell the small connectors that bugfight refers to.

Got it! Thanks, Wilba! I didn't realize that not gluing the screws was an option. Maybe I'll try that on my 2nd MB-6582.

hmm, I see the holes for attaching the baseboard tot he case, and the bottom of the case to the top of the case, but nothing to really attach the frontpanel/CS board combo to the case. It's at too much of an angle to reach the holes on the bottom of the case.

My MB-6582 is done, save for painting and engraving the front panel! When I assemble it, the front panel sits nicely on the PT-10 case, but I'm able to lift it (and the attached CS board) up a bit. Is it just a matter of adding nuts between the panel and the case?

Nevermind, now the Menu encoder is doing some really wacky stuff that changes when I jiggle the ribbon cables. I'll just completely redo these connections. EDIT: Yep, that fixed it!

The SID R LED is a bit dim, when activated with SID L, or by itself. Two LEDs in the matrix (row 3, column 3, and row 4, column 3) do the opposite of what they're supposed to when the Mode LED is set to "Meter." (On by default, off when the rest in their row/column are on). Those two function fine when the Mode is set to Matrix. I don't see any shorts, and I tried resoldering the cables between the base and CS PCBs.

Ah, glue! Thanks!