eptheca

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About eptheca

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    MIDIbox Tweaker

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Norway
  1. MB SID classic with 4x20 LCD setup question

    Here is the instructions on how to set up the tools  http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/windows_toolchain_quickstart
  2. MB SID classic with 4x20 LCD setup question

    Here's the two versions of V2_044 compiled with settings for 4x20 Enjoy :)   setup_6581.hex setup_8580.hex
  3. MB SID classic with 4x20 LCD setup question

    in the asm file, change to this, compile, upload  and Bob's your uncle: ;; number of LCD lines (supported: 2 for 2x* LCDs and 4 for 4x* LCDs) #define DEFAULT_LCD_LINES 4 ;; LCD line -> cursor offsets #define DEFAULT_LCD_LINE_Y0 0x40 #define DEFAULT_LCD_LINE_Y1 0x14 #define DEFAULT_LCD_LINE_Y2 0x00 #define DEFAULT_LCD_LINE_Y3 0x54  
  4. SeqV4+ custom keycaps

    Very nice!
  5. IMG_0014.jpg

    Wow Bruno! Now I want one too 
  6. Recording / tracking MB SEQ Ableton

    Hi Bruno No, just Ableton. I have thought about getting Pro Tools or Cubase, but I'm old and can't be bothered to learn a new DAW I have figured out a satisfactory  solution: - Ableton as Master clock, connected to the MB SEQ with a MIDI cable from the RME Fireface UCX (actually more stable than MIDI over USB) - MIDI Sync Delay set to - 2 ms,  - Monitor in Ableton set to OFF. Monitoring direct through the RME audio interface Did a lot of reading and testing. Ableton works best as Master, it does not like to be a slave. Also if Monitor in Ableton is left to On or Auto, as it is by default, Ableton assume that you are recording something you are playing live, so it moves the recorded audio according to the latency. It's not really made for traditional track recording like Pro Tools, Cubase and Logic   Some hits are still early and some late, but it's within +/- 2 ms The BPM on the slaved MB SEQ still fluctuates, but it's just jitter within +/- 1 BPM   Finally satisfied with my recording setup, so it's time to actually finalize some tunes :)     https://www.instagram.com/prinztronix/?hl=en   All the best, Hal
  7. Hi, Does anyone here do track recording in Ableton Live with MB SEQ? I have problems getting it right, and wondered if anybody had any tips. Setup: MB SEQ V4 (STM32F4) MIDI through USB Lenovo Intel Core i7 / Windows 10 RME Fireface UCX Ableton Live 9   I have tried running Ableton as Master and Slave I have tried with Monitor in Ableton off and on There is always a mismatch, just within a few bars some hits can be be about 6 milliseconds early and some about 6 milliseconds late. Cheers, Hal          
  8. Stephan Bodzin live @ Piz Gloria for Cercle

    Is it not Livid? What is it then?
  9. Stephan Bodzin live @ Piz Gloria for Cercle

    Looks like Livid Instruments Brain and buttons http://lividinstruments.com/products/builder/
  10. Sammich kits on eBay -- legit or bootleg?

    This looks like one of them. apparently some issues with them ;) 
  11. Sammich FM

    Is this one of those eBay / Hong Kong kits? Anybody know what the deal is with those?
  12. TPD Dots

    Looks fine to me. Track 4 is selected. Half way in the length of the sequence.
  13. midiphy SEQ v4+

    It seems that my suggestion for a clarification about the name was not that stupid, because you all explain the SEQ V4+ a little different. How can the V4+ be the new UI/frontpanel when I am already running it with a Wilba frontpanel? The way I see it, V4+ is the firmware version that only runs on a STM32F4 core. It can be used with a Wilba frontpanel and a latigid on frontpanel just with a different HW file. Some new functions will work on both frontpanels, like it already does with CC layers for drum tracks, and some new functions will probably only work or work best with the latigid frontpanel. Therefor it makes sense to me to be clear about the name. From the changelog: MIDIbox SEQ V4+ is a special firmware variant for the STM32F4 core.  
  14. E-Switch TL 1100 failing

    Thanks Bruno, I might try those. :) 
  15. E-Switch TL 1100 failing

    I have a SEQ V4 with Wilba frontpanel. I bought the parts kit from SmashTV so I assume they are genuine E-Switch. Now I have to press some of them twice or at least harder than before for them to work. I see that others are talking about "failing buttons" and assume that this is the same problem they have. Is it the switch itself, or maybe the cap that "gives in" so you have to press harder? Could it be that I have a mix of switches with different operating force (F160 , F260) ? Does anybody have a suggestion for a fix or a replacement switch?    Cheers, Hal