SID (((stereo)))- FINISHED and NAMED!!

[buhler]

so.. just to double check.  is the MD pin on SmashTV's SID PCB R3a J2 the blank pin between Vs and RC?  it should be obvious i'm sure but i want to be careful not to mess up the SID's in my project.  thanks.

[ganchan]

uhm... that pin it's just connect to nothing in the PCB wires, so you must connect pin 1:1 from CORE J10 and SID J2. You will have only 1 crossed cable at SC that it's in different position on CORE J10.

[buhler]

hey thanks for the reply!  if the blank pin at J2 on the SID pcb is connected to nothing, then i just leave the MD connection out?  i honestly don't know what MD is for so i just want to make sure.  thanks.

[ganchan]

i've make a mistake sorry, if you have smash pcb, you must connect 1:1 but CORE MD to SID SC.

if you have 2 SID (v2) you must connect SID2 SO to CORE J14 and not cascade to SID1 SO.

[buhler]

Perfect!! Thanks so much!

[buhler]

i actually just found this in the FAQ.  sorry guys.  another lame question though, what is the difference between the SidV2.hex and SidV2.asm?  i can't figure that one out.  do i need to upload both to the core?  i think this is the last lame question i'm going to ask.  then i'll leave you guys alone.

[stryd_one]

Time to do some more reading ;)

Upload the hex file. It is generated from the asm source code.

[buhler]

thanks stryd... i know.  i must have missed it somewhere but i've been reading like mad trying to parse the whole MIOS world.  i don't know anything about programming but am really interested in understanding and maybe even trying it.  thanks for the answer.

[stryd_one]

trying to parse the whole MIOS world

Yeh, MIOS is a text adventure.... like, scaling Mt Everest is a snow adventure ;)

Hang in there !

[buhler]

hey stryd... MY MBSID WORKS!!! i'm so stoked!  BUT i have 3 questions.  1.) when i hit the SID 2 button, i get a message saying, "SID2 not available (CAN disabled!)"  i don't remember having to have a CAN connection with only one core.  i can't seem to find any info on this.  2.) i am using a 2x20 LCD that has these specs: controller is compatible with HD44780, 4-bits or 8-bits MPU interface, High speed MPU interface: 2MHz, 80x8 bit display RAM.  its an OLED display, but since it has both a 4 and 8 bit interface i thought it would be fine.  the display works perfectly unless i turn the encoder too fast or push any of the buttons too fast.  if i do "move too quickly" for the screen the bottom middle block on the screen disappears and the screen freezes.  i've tried the LCD test program in MIOS and it seems to work great.  i can't figure this one out.  i tried to download a different LCD driver but the links were all dead.  3.) my DIN module works perfectly, all buttons and encoder are assigned properly but my DOUT is not working.  i checked all the wiring and pinouts and found no mistakes.  all my LED's are permanently on.  i can't seem to figure this one out either.  i thought i read somewhere that there was a test program that i could upload to test these.  any pointers would be awesome.  otherwise, the synth is awesome!  thanks for all your help everyone!!

[stryd_one]

1) Dunno. Anyone?

2) The PLEDs that Wilba and I own don't work in 4-bit mode, you need to use his custom 8-bit LCD driver as per the MB6582, which uses 4 spare pins from elsewhere. With no CAN bus needed you can probably force it to use the normal 8bit driver. I'll leave that subject up to someone who has actually built one ;)

3) Try the SRIO test app

4) The Enter key is over there on the right, under the \ and above Shift. ;D

[seppoman]

1.) when i hit the SID 2 button, i get a message saying, "SID2 not available (CAN disabled!)"  i don't remember having to have a CAN connection with only one core.  i can't seem to find any info on this.

With only one core, just don't press the SID2 button :) The names of the SID1..4 buttons are a bit misleading out of historical reasons. In fact you select a SID pair (or another core) with them. what you probably want to do is press shift and select L,R or LR to get access to only one SID of a stereo pair.

S

[buhler]

4) The Enter key is over there on the right, under the \ and above Shift. ;D

i suppose i asked for that one... ;D

With only one core, just don't press the SID2 button :) The names of the SID1..4 buttons are a bit misleading out of historical reasons. In fact you select a SID pair (or another core) with them. what you probably want to do is press shift and select L,R or LR to get access to only one SID of a stereo pair.

S

i see what you are saying.  the SID 1-4 buttons are a derivative of the MBSIDv1 right i.e. the 1 core/1SID idea?  i do get full use of both SID's as well as 6 note polyphony... so i guess it was more of a curiosity thing than a necessity thing.  thanks for the answers guys!  away i go uploading and testing! :D

[buhler]

2) The PLEDs that Wilba and I own don't work in 4-bit mode, you need to use his custom 8-bit LCD driver as per the MB6582, which uses 4 spare pins from elsewhere. With no CAN bus needed you can probably force it to use the normal 8bit driver. I'll leave that subject up to someone who has actually built one ;)

which of the drivers on the download page is this one?  i couldn't find any reference to it in the descriptions of the LCD drivers... :-[

also, would i need a new driver for the LCD if i did connect DB0-3?  i'm not planning for multiple cores this time around so i don't mind removing the possibility... anyone?

[buhler]

well... i couldn't wait for a reply so i went ahead and connected the 4 pins (DB0-3) and it fixed my LCD problem!!  i would just like to know whether or not i may get problems from this later on down the road?  i'm not worried about CAN as i want this to be a simple 2SID box but if there are any other issues i should be aware of please let me know.

also, i uploaded the SRIO test and the core/DIN/DOUT pins are all connected properly and read the correct voltages.  so... i re-uploaded the SIDv2 setup hex and then left it at that.  if i can fix the DOUT problem i would love to but since the DIN and the LCD work just fine, i may just scrap the DOUT module... i don't know.  i would really like to fix it.  i like the LED's!  :D  anyway, unless someone has an idea of what is going on... i might just disconnect the DOUT module as well as the SID1 and SID2 buttons.  is it possible to configure the SIDv2 hex to make the SID1 and SID2 buttons SIDLeft and SIDRight when using only one core?  thanks.

[stryd_one]

well... i couldn't wait for a reply

And yet you didn't run a search ;)

and uhm... you trying to boost your postcount or what? ;D

DOUTs must be a wiring problem or dead SR's...

[buhler]

And yet you didn't run a search ;)

and uhm... you trying to boost your postcount or what? ;D

DOUTs must be a wiring problem or dead SR's...

woops... i get ahead of myself sometimes!!  searching is good.  i'm gonna add a search reminder to myself to my sig!!! ;D

[stryd_one]

Heheheh...Did you find it? I'm 100%s ure Wilba's covered this off... Just too busy doing other things to search right now.

[Wilba]

If you want to run your PLED with 8-bit mode, you'll have to:

• cut the track between PIC pin 35 and J15:D2
  
• cut the track between PIC pin 36 and J15:D3
  
• solder a wire between PIC pin 9 and J15:D2
  
• solder a wire between PIC pin 10 and J15:D3
  
• connect all 8 data pins of J15 (D0-D8) with ribbon cable to the LCD (just like a normal 8-bit LCD cable)
  
• use the change_id application to burn a new ID into the PIC so that it uses the custom LCD driver that is in the MB-SID firmware.
  

(exception: you don't need to cut tracks or solder wires if you use the MB-6582 base PCB; there are disconnected tracks under the PIC, four pairs of pads you can connect with solder blobs.).

The change_id application is here:

http://www.ucapps.de/mios/change_id_v1_9d.zip

You will need to edit the main.asm file and rebuild a new main.hex file. I suggest the first thing you do after unzipping is delete all .hex files to reduce the chance of accidents.

If you want to run other applications, you'll need to copy the custom LCD driver file from the MB-SID source (app_lcd.inc) into the source directories of the other applications and rebuild them. Once you change the ID to use the custom LCD driver, the display will not work with other applications until you rebuild them with the custom LCD driver. This includes the default "READY." app that runs after reinstalling MIOS.

The first person to follow these instructions can go and update the wiki.  ;D

[buhler]

so before i go and do all this... if my LCD is already working fine, does that mean that i have something wrong?  i.e. all 8 data lines are connected and there are no problems.  this sounds pretty complicated!!

@stryd- i thought you meant the SIDL and SIDR button/led configuration. ;D  i've been working on that the last couple hours!! 

[buhler]

so before i go and do all this... if my LCD is already working fine, does that mean that i have something wrong?  i.e. all 8 data lines are connected and there are no problems.  

*bump*  i just want to make sure this is ok :)

[seppoman]

what exactly is your question? "It works perfectly, so does that mean there's something wrong?" - I guess if everything works fine, there's nothing to worry about :)

S

[stryd_one]

Also, Wilba was already kind enough to answer the question in detail. Scroll up ;)

[buhler]

what exactly is your question? "It works perfectly, so does that mean there's something wrong?" - I guess if everything works fine, there's nothing to worry about :)

S

my question was:  i connected all 4 data pins that were left unconnected before i.e. D0-D3.  that "fixed" my freezing LCD problem.  i just wanted to make sure that i wasn't doing anything wrong by doing this.  i don't have a CAN connection so i figured it would be ok, plus my LCD datasheet says that my LCD runs in both 4bit and 8bit mode. 

Also, Wilba was already kind enough to answer the question in detail. Scroll up ;)

Wilba was very kind.  i just wanted to make sure that my much more "lazy" fix was not going to cause my midibox to blow up in the near future.  thanks Wilba!!  [edit]i didn't ever mean to sound ungrateful!! sorry if i did!  :-[

[stryd_one]

i just wanted to make sure that my much more "lazy" fix was not going to cause my midibox to blow up in the near future.

"Fix"? you mean "workaround" :)

It's definitely best to do it the 'proper' way. I could go into lots of detail about why you should, and why it may not matter, but I'll keep it brief: If it was my midibox, I'd definitely do it Wilba's way ;)