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Smithy

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Smithy last won the day on December 21 2020

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About Smithy

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    MIDIbox Guru
  • Birthday April 6

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    www.soundcloud/adriansmith

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    Male
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    Cork, Ireland

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  1. Congratulations on your hard work everyone involved! Nice to see a MIDIbox device finally get the recognition it deserves! I just wanted to update the thread and say that I had the intermittent booting issue since I built my LoopA and since installing those 2 resistors Andy suggested, it has been flawless! Such a fun little device to get ideas down quickly while remaining inspired and in the moment! One of the most important things for my workflow!
  2. Had a lot of fun of making this Live Cover of Anthony Rothers classic electro banger - Little Computer People. Used the midiphy LoopA to sequence and live loop this one. All the gear used is mentioned at the end of the video. I'm still recovering from surgery on my neck so the vocoder could be stronger. Enjoy.
  3. Updated my post above as the heatshrink was getting in the way of pushing down 1 or 2 knobs. I might try Kapton tape instead now.
  4. I wouldn't count on them coming back anytime soon just fyi. Logan who was running the shop for John has left to pursue his own business - Low-Gain Electronics. John was too busy to manage it himself so unless he comes back or finds a replacement to run the shop people will be waiting. Also worth noting that John has not been active on the forum since April 2018.
  5. Edit: On second thought I had problems pushing one or 2 knobs as the heatshrink gets in the way. Best to use sellotape like peter said or some thinner material. I tr ied Peters method of securing the knobs to the shafts of the encoders with Sellotape but I found the tape simply would not stick well to the encoder shafts and sometimes fell down to the bottom causing noise when turning the knobs. So I came up with a more permanent or secure method. I used blue heathrink as you can see in the first pic that was as close to the diameter of the top half or the D shape of the s
  6. Lost count! Friday i spent most the day, saturday a half day, Sunday a half day, Monday most of the day, and finished it before lunch on Tuesday. But i take my time with things like this, and encountered a few problems like trying to fit the microcontroller in and cut all the legs! I think i was being overly cautious with cutting those pins as close as possible.
  7. Here's the time lapse video i recorded of the LoopA. I gave up on the solder paste and hot air method early in the build, as the solder paste I used didnt come with a plunger and my plunger was a bit too narrow. I have officially converted over to drag soldering now and its much faster. When I soldered the Mattias switches the recording stopped as a calendar notification popped up on the phone! Luckily its 99% of it is there! Thanks again to everyone involved, everyone is credited at the end of the video.
  8. Thansk guys! Yes even a noob like me can reproduce which is a good sign and will hopefully inspire other newbies! ;) By the way, all images have been fixed in my previous posts. I tried the right clicking, "copy image" and pasting from google images which caused the problem. This usually works fine on other sites but not with Community Software forums apparently.
  9. A wild midiphy LoopA appears! Huge thanks to Andy, Peter and TK for making my dream looper come true! I just need to test MIDI I/O now.
  10. Here's how the OLED header looks with the rear panel mounted:
  11. Shhhh! Its a secret! ;) Guys i think the I was sent the wrong sized nuts for the rear acrylic panel where 2 nuts slip into the slots. The nuts have a 3mm height and will not fit. Luckily I have 3mm nuts with a height of about 2.3mm that will do the job nicely.
  12. Photos aren't the best, I should really use an endoscope! But hopefully you can see it was necessary to trim the back upper corner of that connector.
  13. I have the row soldered and cut already but ill take a photo so you can draw imaginary lines down to the connector with your eyes! Ill take a photo and upload it at 9am GMT.
  14. When pushing down the Headers for the OLED I noticed that the top of the 8 pin DIN for the BLM got in the way despite filing off the "nip" as Peter put it. I had to file the corner / back of the connector off at an angle even further so the standard SIL pins would have enough clearance. Maybe my connector is slightly different to the one Peter used in the video? It sure looked the same, as it has the metal tab on front that needed to be filed down. Case goes on tomorrow morning and I should be done!
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