Smithy

Frequent Writer
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About Smithy

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    MIDIbox Guru
  • Birthday January 01

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  1. Awesome video, I actually thought you were eating oatmeal for breakfast until I realized it was SMT components in a bowl! Don't eat those!
  2. [S] Midibox, Ambika and assorted

    Message sent re: the Ambikas.  
  3. MIDIbox SEQ V4Lite

    @Hawkeye has a finished unit that he might be selling, it just needs a case.
  4. Control Panel Questions

    The files you need are in the mb-6582 Wiki.   http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wilba_mb_6582
  5. MIDIbox SEQ new frontpanel idea

    Ah cool, a panel that blanks out the holes is a good compromise.  The real fun of the early release design will begin when we’re giving feedback on fonts for the labeling! 
  6. MIDIbox SEQ new frontpanel idea

    Hi Andy will there be an option for just the holes at the back of the case and none underneath? For those of us who want a desktop only version. I'd imagine its slightly cheaper too to have only one set of holes cut out too.  
  7. What are the ribbon cable connectors called

    The name for the connectors is IDC. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulation-displacement_connector  
  8. Two-Zero-One-Eight

    Happy New Year Zam, and happy new year to all you other MIDIboxers!
  9. Cannot Upload PDF to Wiki/Forum

    Used a website to compress the pdf and it’s uploaded now. Thanks!
  10. Cannot Upload PDF to Wiki/Forum

    So the note about the file size limit being 2MBs when you hit the upload file tab is incorrect? Happy Holidays!  
  11. Hi guys, I have a 1.4MB PDF file I cannot upload to the WIKI or Forum. Not sure whats causing the issue. Here is a link to it on Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w5UaDtW10bz6Lx4OwwlI_gaQ0miOoz4p/view?usp=sharing I was able to upload an older version of the PDF fine, maybe its the PDF type thats the issue. If anyone can figure out whats going wrong I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!  
  12. Build Guide: MIDIbox Quad Genesis

    Bonus Step D: Mounting the PCBs and Alluminium Front Panel to the case.
  13. Build Guide: MIDIbox Quad Genesis

    Bonus Step C: Painting the Case <<<PlaceHolder>>>
  14. Build Guide: MIDIbox Quad Genesis

    Bonus Step B: Making a Cutout in the Back Panel for an Alluminium panel with I/Os. <<<Placeholder>>>
  15. Build Guide: MIDIbox Quad Genesis

    Bonus Step A: Building the Wooden Case First of all I would like to say a big thanks to Technobreath for designing a wooden case for MIDIbox Quad Genesis. This case is designed to be easily reproduced by the community without much skills or tools needed. You can download Technobreath's build instructions here which has all the dimensions you need to cut out each side of the case: building-instructions4-ilovepdf-compressed.pdf If you have better skills or tools at hand, feel free to build the case your own way and please share how you done so in this thread. Materials needed: Sheet of 9mm thickness MDF (Medium Density Fibrewood), Plywood or Birch. I used MDF as it was easy to obtain at my local diy store. 26 pcs of 3.5mm x 20mm Wood or Drywalll Screws. Metal threaded inserts for wood, suitable for 3M internal screws, for mounting the Allumimium Front Panel and PCBs to the wooden case. Alternatively you could use motherboard style standoffs and epoxy. 2 narrow lengths of Wood to be used as a simple jig to help you cut in straight line. e.g. Width = 5mm Length= 365mm minimum (the maximum length of our wooden panels). These will be held in place by C Clamps. It is extremely important that each length of wood has a perfectly straight edge on one of the long sides as it will guide you when cutting. Please watch Leah's awesome youtube video where I discovered the idea of using a simple jig here:     Recommended Tools: A workbench, or something to keep the wood on top of while sawing. I just used 2 plastic boxes / crates to keep the wood elevated on the floor of my studio. Handsaw suitable for cutting your wood type Measuring tape + Pencil / Pen / Marker Ruler: for drawing diagonal lines Carpenters Square for drawing perpendicular lines to the sides of the wood. 4 big C-Clamps for holding the jig in place. Cordless Drill PH2 Philips Bit for the screws Drill bits suitable for Wood. a 2.5mm bit for pilot holes and a 4.0mm bit for clearance holes is recommended. Countersink bit for allowing the heads of the screws to go beneath the surface of the wood Sandpaper. 80 Grit recommended for adjusting non-smooth cuts, and 120 grit recommended for finishing. I also have a handheld sandpaper holder which makes it much easier to hold while sanding.   Step 1: Creating the Side Panels Draw out the wedge shaped side panels of the case, I drew both of mine inside a rectangle so I could cut both in one go saving wood. Drawing the perpendicular line: I used my measuring tape and the measurements in Technobreath's PDF to mark both ends of the diagonal line before drawing a line between those markings with a ruler: Setting up the Jig with 2 pieces of wood and C Clamps parallel to the line I'm cutting, spaced the width of the saw apart:   First side cut: Second side cut: Setting up the Jig for the diagonal line: Here is the picture of both side panels cut out. Notice how one of mine is  taller than the other while placed on a flat level surface, my desk in this case. This is nothing a bit of sanding can fix. You can use C Clamps to hold the panels together while sanding so you can see visually when the height of both panels match. Ensure you line up the other sides correctly.   Step 2: Creating the Rear Side of the Case For the back panel simply measure the dimensions in the PDF and draw the rectangular shape on the sheet of wood. Use the same method of using the jig in Step 1 and cut out this rectangular shape. The top side of this panel will need to be sloped to allow our Aluminium front panel to lie on it flat on it. At the side of the panel measure and mark the lower height with a pencil i.e. the height of the panels front side: Now sand the top of the panel at an angle until you get the slope required. I found it easier to sand than to cut with a saw as theres no real way of holding a jig in place with my tools.   Here's the finished result: # Now hold the back panel upto the side panels and inspect if the slope is smooth between both panels.   As you can see from the picture mine is not perfectly smooth so the top of the back panel is going to take a little sanding until it is flush with the side panels. Step 3: Create the Front side Simply measure, mark and cut out the rectangle for the front side of the case as per the PDF. The top side of this panel is sloped also to match the side panels, so we will need to mark the shorter length on the side of the panel and sand it down to this marking just like we did with the rear panel: Now stand the front side next to the side panels and inspect if further is sanding is necessary:   Step 4: Creating the Bottom Side of the Case Measure, mark, and draw out the rectangle for the bottom panel of the case using the dimensions in the PDF. Cut it out using the jig method as usual. Now we should have something that resembles a full case: (it is just freestanding in this photo) Step 5: Screwing the Case together I decided to screw the front side to the bottom side of the case first. First I marked the hole of where the right most screw will enter with a pencil. Since the thickness of wood is 9mm, I marked it about 4.5mm from the edge which is exactly half the length of the side of the bottom panel. Now we will drill the pilot hole through the front panel and bottom panel. Use a drill bit that is less than 3.5mm in diameter (i.e. the size of the screw) I used a pilot hole of 2.0mm suggested online, but I found this was too tight and lead to stress cracks in some of the wood. I would suggest using a bit with a diameter of  2.5mm instead. Ensure the side of the front panel is lined up perfectly to the side of the bottom panel before continuing! Ensure your drill is set to drill mode and not hammer or screw mode! Drill a hole in 20mm deep (10mm through the front panel and 10mm through the bottom panel.) Ensure your you are holding the drill perfectly straight so the drill bit doesn't go in at an angle. Next we will drill a clearance hole in the front panel only! The clearance hole must be slightly bigger than the diameter of the screw e.g. 4.0mm. Simply drill the clearance hole through the existing pilot hole in the front panel to make the hole wider: Next using the countersink bit, drill a cone shaped hole into the clearance hole at  the front of the front panel just deep enough so the head of the screw will go under the panels surface and will not be sticking out. Next we will change the setting on the drill to Screw, you can apply a torque setting of about 5. And we will screw our first screw through the clearance hole in the front panel and pilot hole in the bottom panel screwing the case together! The result should look like this: (Notice this picture was taken of the left most screw on the panel!)   Now repeat the process for the 3 other screws on the front panel! Step 6: Screw the back panel to the bottom panel using 4 screws Screw 4 screws through the back panel and bottom panel using the same method. View from back of case: View from front of case:     Step 7: Screw the side panels to the bottom panel using 9 screws per side Use the same method for this step also.   Now we should be left with a case looking something like this: Now ensure the length and width of the case matches the Alluminium Front Panel. The length of the case should be as close as possible to 381mm, and the depth of the sloped top of the case should be as close to 279.4mm as possible. If you are off by a few millimeters you could always customize the Front Panel file for the Alluminium Front Panel, and change the co-ordinates for the screw holes before ordering. My case was not 100% perfect, due to either human error when cutting out the bottom panel or because one side of the sheet of MDF was not cut perfectly straight in the factory. The depth of the bottom panel ended up being longer than it should. As you can see the back panel of the case overlaps the side panels: I was a bit gutted but decided to keep it and move on with the project as the dimensions at the top of the case seems to match the dimensions of the Alluminium Front Panel closely enough. Don't be put off by this post! I had zero skills in woodwork when starting this project and I still managed to make a usable case with hand tools, there's no reason you can't either! Hopefully you will have better luck!