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Smithy

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Smithy last won the day on March 15

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About Smithy

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    MIDIbox Guru
  • Birthday April 6

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  1. Thanks SSP. The cutting came out great! Well done! Hell I'd even label it manually myself if needs be. Let me know if you have any suggestions. Thanks a million, Smithy.
  2. Hey SSP, thanks for reaching out and apologies for the late reply! I would definitely be interested in paying you for a laser cut acrylic front panel. The one slight catch is I need the engraved text to be legible with a high contrast to the rest of the panel. Is it possible that you could use Cast Acrylic at work for this? Or a two tone acrylic e.g. black acrylic with a white core? I am trying to avoid infilling the engraved acrylic with paint manually. As you can see, the original acrylic case for the midiphy loopA for example is difficult to read even in well lit conditions: ht
  3. [3D Printable Front Panel File for use by Wiki] mbqg_fp_modledrings_Holes_Moved_ready_to_print.zip Attached is an STL file of the front panel with raised lettering for use with 3D Printing To produce a bi-coloured panel with a different colour for the lettering please follow this easy guide: This file is provided as a lower cost method for producing a 3D printed front panel as opposed the cost of having an alluminium panel milled by Schaeffer which costs 410 euro in the EU excluding shipping. However, it may be better to use an SVG file to have acrylic laser cut, which wil
  4. Here are some additional 3D Models / STL files for the Buttons and Light pipes converted to the metric system for 2mm Panels: mbqg_fp_buttons converted to mm for 2mm panel.stl mbqg_fp_ledpipes converted to mm for 2mm panel.stl And these files are for 3mm panels with the appropriate mesh extruded / lengthened. mbqg_fp_buttons converted to mm for 3mm panel.stl mbqg_fp_ledpipes converted to mm for 3mm panel.stl
  5. Here's a tip for anyone who wants an easy way of having raised lettering on their 3D prints with a different colour to the case itself. Print the case with lettering with the same colour filament you want the raised lettering to have. Paint or (spray paint is probably best) the entire case in the colour you want the case to be. Then simply sand the lettering with sand paper and the original filament colour will come through. I saw this method posted in a facebook Flight Sim group where a user 3D printed his own Boeing 737 panels:
  6. Here's a tip for anyone who wants an easy way of having raised lettering on their 3D prints with a different colour to the case itself. Print the case with lettering with the same colour filament you want the raised lettering to have. Paint or (spray paint is probably best) the entire case in the colour you want the case to be. Then simply sand the lettering with sand paper and the original filament colour will come through. I saw this method posted in a facebook Flight Sim group where a user 3D printed his own Boeing 737 panels:
  7. User BEBDigital Audio kindly uploaded files for a 3D Printed case 6 days ago, just in case you guys are subscribed to this thread:
  8. Excellent work! Very clean looking.
  9. Congratulations on your hard work everyone involved! Nice to see a MIDIbox device finally get the recognition it deserves! I just wanted to update the thread and say that I had the intermittent booting issue since I built my LoopA and since installing those 2 resistors Andy suggested, it has been flawless! Such a fun little device to get ideas down quickly while remaining inspired and in the moment! One of the most important things for my workflow!
  10. Had a lot of fun of making this Live Cover of Anthony Rothers classic electro banger - Little Computer People. Used the midiphy LoopA to sequence and live loop this one. All the gear used is mentioned at the end of the video. I'm still recovering from surgery on my neck so the vocoder could be stronger. Enjoy.
  11. Updated my post above as the heatshrink was getting in the way of pushing down 1 or 2 knobs. I might try Kapton tape instead now.
  12. I wouldn't count on them coming back anytime soon just fyi. Logan who was running the shop for John has left to pursue his own business - Low-Gain Electronics. John was too busy to manage it himself so unless he comes back or finds a replacement to run the shop people will be waiting. Also worth noting that John has not been active on the forum since April 2018.
  13. Edit: On second thought I had problems pushing one or 2 knobs as the heatshrink gets in the way. Best to use sellotape like peter said or some thinner material. I tr ied Peters method of securing the knobs to the shafts of the encoders with Sellotape but I found the tape simply would not stick well to the encoder shafts and sometimes fell down to the bottom causing noise when turning the knobs. So I came up with a more permanent or secure method. I used blue heathrink as you can see in the first pic that was as close to the diameter of the top half or the D shape of the s
  14. Lost count! Friday i spent most the day, saturday a half day, Sunday a half day, Monday most of the day, and finished it before lunch on Tuesday. But i take my time with things like this, and encountered a few problems like trying to fit the microcontroller in and cut all the legs! I think i was being overly cautious with cutting those pins as close as possible.
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