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My first PCBs, need connection help.


Bassman
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So I got my first CORE, DIN & DOUT today, yeah!

But, naturaly as a newbie, I am confused.

I assembled the boards ok, thanks to SmashTVs excellent documentation and pictures, otherwise I'd be stumped.

But on my R5 DIN, J1 must connect to CORE J9. J1 on the DIN is a 10 pin header whilst J9 on the CORE is half of a 10 pin header i.e. 5 pins. Also on my R5 DOUT, J1 connects to CORE J8. J1 on the DOUT is a 10 pin header whilst J8 on the CORE is half of a 10 pin header i.e. 5 pins. What needs to be connected here?

There is also mention of CORE J6 & J7 to be used if conditions apply. If I just want buttons and LEDs, do I ignore J6 & J7 on the CORE?

I'm also curious why CORE J7 & J8 are not a together and similarly J9 & J6, as 10 pin headers.

R5 DIN shows J3, J4, J5, J6 as digital input lines with 8 lines and a Vs. The wiring diagram for 32 buttons (mbhp_dinx4_32buttons.pdf), shows J3 thru J10, each with 4 lines and a Vs connected to buttons, an R2 version I guess? Do I assume J3 (D4-D7) & J4 (D0-D3) on the wiring diagram are D0 thru D7 on J3 in the R5 DIN? Similarly, J5 (D4-D7) & J6 (D0-D3) on the wiring diagram are D0 thru D7 on J4 in the R5 DIN, etc.?

Thanks

Keith

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Uh.........ok, I found the answer to my CORE to DIN and DOUT question at Smash. I see the new boards are made to carry the SI or SO through for easy DIL connection. It wasn't obvious, but fortunately I can trace a PCB track.

I will assume that smash has also changed the DIN input lines to DIL for easier connection.

I see that the real wizzkid (not a reflection on age Smash  ;D) is at SmashTV. He obviously has 30 hours in his days. How does he do it? I think he deserves MUCH more credit and thanks!

So THANKS SMASH!

Keith

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I hope they're answered. Of course I've a long way to go yet. Making the boards, making the panel and box, wiring it all up, uploading my application, and probably spending forever to puzzle out what's wrong. Easy......yeah right! I'm sure I'll need a bundle of help.

thanks for being there

Keith

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You might wanna change the order of things to do a bit ;)

* build core board, troubleshoot if necessary

* upload apps to test stuff

* build DIN board, troubleshoot if necessary (these two can be switched if you like)

* build DOUT board, troubleshoot if necessary (these two can be switched if you like)

* upload apps to test stuff

* make panel and box

* wire it all up

* upload apps to test stuff

* upload the app you really want on there

* enjoy ;D

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Well, with the copious amount of help, past and present, plus figuring out that the DOUT inputs are labed backwards (that had me confused for a while), I have everything working 1st time, so I'm suitably pleased with myself, but really all the work done by others is the reason it went fairly smoothly.

Fortunately, I organised my box and wiring around the 8 bit registers so it is easy to swap around DIN and DOUT inputs if neccessary.

I cut up a very large stripboard (12"x12"), that I got in a local store, into 2 hole wide strips to get mountings for each group of 8 LEDs, and glued to ribbon cable to the back after wiring, that was helpful.

The only unexpected thing, was the LEDs not following the button mode in OnOnly, where I thought the LEDs would stay on.

Apart from that small point, I would say it was a success.

Many thanks to everyone, that has contributed.

Now I'm going to make a bigger system, I have so many things I want but could never find to buy.

Keith

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Foona,

Here is my 'beast', as you call it, you're probably right,  :D

It's not a great picture, but it will give you an idea. It's working very well, now, except I can't figure out how to keep the LEDs for 'OnOnly' mode buttons, to stay on until another is pressed. Ah, one day!

Just for those curious about these things, the menu buttons are actual LEDs sitting on top of tiny micro switches. They don't fall out as the LED base flange keeps them in the hole, and the switch keeps them in place. But the neat thing is they light up when pressed!! It was a fiddly assembly but it worked out.

Also, just to the left of the LCD, behind the LCD green plastic cover are the RX and TX LEDs.

I used 2 pot controllers, one for the synth that the pedals plays, and one to send to my guitar processor so I have complete volume control at my feet.

thanks for everyone's help, now on to my next 'want' project.

Keith

mypedals_thumb.jpg

2648_mypedals_jpg251ffd21ac883abf3b6190d

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Just for those curious about these things, the menu buttons are actual LEDs sitting on top of tiny micro switches. They don't fall out as the LED base flange keeps them in the hole, and the switch keeps them in place. But the neat thing is they light up when pressed!! It was a fiddly assembly but it worked out.

You can also do this with larger LEDs (e.g. 8mm ones) to get really nice and cheap illuminated buttons (scroll down to see the discussion on some more robust alternatives).

Best regards, ilmenator

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Well it got a bunch of keys broken many years ago and sat around as I couldn't get parts. Then I got it midfied and scrapped the keyboard part.

It's pretty old but the sound is enormous for bass. I have a Moog Taurus as well, but my 'beast' and the old mini moog is the same but much better.

anyway, we're way............. off topic. ;D

I got to get to studying Thorsten assembler, to make changes.

Keith

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Thanks for the link, ilmenator,

Great to see all those inventions. I used micro switches from old 'mice' and mounted them on a small piece of vero board, then put a dab from a hot glue gun to the bottom of the LEDs and sat them down to cool with a flat surface to the bottom to push the switch.

thanks again, you were there way before me...... ;D

Keith

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