Screws instead of glue (MB-6582 frontpanel)

[Hawkeye]

Hi Folks,

First time here...

I want to thank TK, Wilba and SmashTV for their fantastic work! It is a really addicting project. I also like the idea of slaughtering old C64s ;-).

After getting all the electronic parts, including kits from SmashTV, I am now about to order the frontpanels from FPE for the PacTec PT-10 and would really like to go "glueless" with screws to the 10mm spacers on both sides. Therefore I plan on using the last .fpd (with mount holes) on this page: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wilba_mb_6582_panels

There, Wilba writes "I strongly recommend anyone who thinks they need this file to contact me for advice and checking their plans, I can save you a costly mistake!".

I´d like to use flathead black screws with a hexagon socket/allen screw (german: senkkopf).

Questions:

* despite the cost (the last .fpd is the non-optimized version, i think of transferring the holes to the optimized version) is there any pitfall why i should not do this?

* can i have a 1.5mm aluminium frontpanel from fpe with proper holes for flathead screws (in german: reichen 1.5 mm für eine senkkopfbohrung?). The fpe designer says, i should use 2mm for this project, whereas 1.5mm are selectable for the other .fpds. If only 2mm are possible: does this still look good on the PT-10? I am aware, that the tactile components are optimized for 10mm spacers plus 1.5mm panel, but i could shorten them to 9.5mm ;-).

Thank you for your comments and have a good time!

Hawkeye/Peter

Edited July 26, 2010 by Hawkeye

[Smithy]

* can i have a 1.5mm aluminium frontpanel from fpe with proper holes for flathead screws (in german: reichen 1.5 mm für eine senkkopfbohrung?). The fpe designer says, i should use 2mm for this project, whereas 1.5mm are selectable for the other .fpds. If only 2mm are possible: does this still look good on the PT-10? I am aware, that the tactile components are optimized for 10mm spacers plus 1.5mm panel, but i could shorten them to 9.5mm ;-).

As it says on that page:

"Also, it should be noted that due to a rule in the software, you cannot always specify 1.5mm panels over a certain size, so the frontpanel has 2.0mm specified in the file and a note that thickness should be 1.5mm.

Be sure to confirm in email you want 1.5mm thickness when ordering, as they can and do make panels of this size in 1.5mm aluminium, with engraving. If they say they don't, I will personally remind them that they do."

in the note section of the checkout program, just put in something like "*NOTE* Panel must be 1.5mm thick." if its not already added.

The program doesnt let you select it, but schaeffer DO make them with 1.5mm thickness if you like!

Edited July 26, 2010 by Smithy

[Hawkeye]

Hi Smithy,

Thanks, but is it possible to have proper sunk head drillings for only 1.5mm frontpanel thickness? You know, drilled in cone-form to accomodate the sunkhead screws (planning on using ISO 7991 M3x20 black, hex). In other words: is 1.5mm thickness sufficient?

Uhm, i´ve just seen a pic of your MB-6582 with sunk head screws (a few threads below this). This looks perfect. So, i guess the question is answered - thanks!

Edited July 26, 2010 by Hawkeye

[phunk]

Hi Smithy,

Thanks, but is it possible to have proper sunk head drillings for only 1.5mm frontpanel thickness? You know, drilled in cone-form to accomodate the sunkhead screws (planning on using ISO 7991 M3x20 black, hex). In other words: is 1.5mm thickness sufficient?

Uhm, i´ve just seen a pic of your MB-6582 with sunk head screws (a few threads below this). This looks perfect. So, i guess the question is answered - thanks!

When you read the specification of a din 7991 (i guess you did) you know that it is not possible when constructed "correct". Kmax (the overall length of the head) is 1.7mm. That means you´d need

at least 2mm FP to have a proper hole for a DIN 7991 but you could of course do it and have a bigger hole as a result (assuming an 90 degree angle of the head). As long as it does not exceed 6mm diameter

on the bottom side of the panel everything is fine..

you can easily calculate that...

[Hawkeye]

Thanks, phunk!

Smithy, i´ve got two other questions for you.

Here:

you wrote that mmallucks modded .FPDs (MB-6582_frontpanel_r2_cheapest mod.zip) work perfectly for the four countersunk M3 screws you put at the four corners.

1) Do you have a 1.5mm panel? And it worked with the countersunk drill?

2) Do you think it is possible to just copy the location of the additional drill holes for the standoffs/spacers from the last .fpd ("with mount holes") on this page: http://www.midibox.o..._mb_6582_panels to mmallucks .fpd?

I know, that many think, it is ugly to have screws "on the frontpanel" but i prefer this to having glue on its backside ;-).

If it works out, I would of course make mmallucks updated fpd with "corner and main-panel holes for countersunk screws" available for everyone.

Thanks a lot!

Hawkeye/Peter

Edited July 26, 2010 by Hawkeye

[Smithy]

Smithy, i´ve got two other questions for you.

Here:

you wrote that mmallucks modded .FPDs (MB-6582_frontpanel_r2_cheapest mod.zip) work perfectly for the four countersunk M3 screws you put at the four corners.

1) Do you have a 1.5mm panel? And it worked with the countersunk drill?

2) Do you think it is possible to just copy the location of the additional drill holes for the standoffs/spacers from the last .fpd ("with mount holes") on this page: http://www.midibox.o..._mb_6582_panels to mmallucks .fpd?

I know, that many think, it is ugly to have screws "on the frontpanel" but i prefer this to having glue on its backside ;-).

If it works out, I would of course make mmallucks updated fpd with "corner and main-panel holes for countersunk screws" available for everyone.

Thanks a lot!

Hawkeye/Peter

Yep, I have a 1.5mm Panel. It looks fine, holds the screws in place perfectly.

Some peeps in the chat think its a bit risky, but the countersink looks substantial enough to my eyes.

I cant see the screw breaking through it. You could always go non countersunk if it makes you feel happier.

Im close to the JB Welding stage now, i will probably do it tomorrow when i feel more alert.

If you would like me to take a close up shot of the countersunk holes i can.

Im an FPD noob, so I dont know if you can copy and paste the dimensions of the hole as well as the hole itself,

but those dimensions were spot on.

The dimensions are the exact same as the holes shown in the Pactec PT-10 diagram of the panel. (the pdf file)

Theres a pic of it in the other thread, and wilba confirmed the dimensions in his post.

Edited July 26, 2010 by Smithy

[Hawkeye]

Thanks Smithy, you helped me a lot. Will post a screenshot of my frontpanel-design soon ;-).

[stuartm]

Hi Peter,

I have built my MB64 Controller using a 2mm Frontpanel and the same technique with the M3 flathead screws / Senkkopfschrauben and spacers.

1.5mm should work as well, since you dont put lots of mass on there.

And yep, only disadvantage is you have screws on the panel surface.

See also my Wiki article with some photos:

http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=stuartm_stukontrol

Anyone ever tried epoxy ?

[Hawkeye]

Thanks, stuart.

Good question with the epoxy, i have lots of it lying around here (RC planes as another hobby) and metal-metal glueing with it does work well, according to the instructions and my experience.