pilo Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 try a transformer :) (I never seen AC power here...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 Well, as see nothing new to try in DC, I found a wall adapter that says it outputs 10V AC 300mA so bought it (cheap), in fact it reads 11,5 V with my multimeter, so do you think I can try the AC version with this adapter, or will I kill the whole box with that ? Also bought an isolated power plug...defred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 Well, as see nothing new to try in DC, I found a wall adapter that says it outputs 10V AC 300mA so bought it (cheap), in fact it reads 11,5 V with my multimeter, so do you think I can try the AC version with this adapter, or will I kill the whole box with that ? Also bought an isolated power plug...defred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashtv Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 Well, as see nothing new to try in DC, I found a wall adapter that says it outputs 10V AC 300mA so bought it (cheap), in fact it reads 11,5 V with my multimeter, so do you think I can try the AC version with this adapter, or will I kill the whole box with that ? Also bought an isolated power plug...defredI have a project here that has run reliably for years, and the power supply is just like the one in the core and it runs from a 20VAC supply. 10vac should be no problem. Your regulator should run cooler than with the DC pack.I don't know about the isolated plug thing, fill me in on what the AC wall current is like over there, here it's 120VAC, 60hz.Hopefully this will be the end to your problems!SmashTV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashtv Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 Well, as see nothing new to try in DC, I found a wall adapter that says it outputs 10V AC 300mA so bought it (cheap), in fact it reads 11,5 V with my multimeter, so do you think I can try the AC version with this adapter, or will I kill the whole box with that ? Also bought an isolated power plug...defredI have a project here that has run reliably for years, and the power supply is just like the one in the core and it runs from a 20VAC supply. 10vac should be no problem. Your regulator should run cooler than with the DC pack.I don't know about the isolated plug thing, fill me in on what the AC wall current is like over there, here it's 120VAC, 60hz.Hopefully this will be the end to your problems!SmashTV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashtv Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 Almost forgot, did you etch your own boards, buy from Mike, or buy from me? (Just wondering if your boards have the ground plane)Also I'm thinking if we cant find the cause of this, we *might* be able to add some cheap bypass caps to your box to kill off the interference.Smash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashtv Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 Almost forgot, did you etch your own boards, buy from Mike, or buy from me? (Just wondering if your boards have the ground plane)Also I'm thinking if we cant find the cause of this, we *might* be able to add some cheap bypass caps to your box to kill off the interference.Smash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 fill me in on what the AC wall current is like over there, here it's 120VAC, 60hz. Here by in france its more like 220VAC, 50hz ;)the adapter says 220V 50mA --> 10V 300mAI don't know about the isolated plug thing, I meant the box one, to isolate the case from the power supply.OK Looks good to me, I do the test.thanks again, hope this will be it !!!defred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 fill me in on what the AC wall current is like over there, here it's 120VAC, 60hz. Here by in france its more like 220VAC, 50hz ;)the adapter says 220V 50mA --> 10V 300mAI don't know about the isolated plug thing, I meant the box one, to isolate the case from the power supply.OK Looks good to me, I do the test.thanks again, hope this will be it !!!defred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 AC / DC it just DOn't RocK !!!!It is the very same problem so it might come from the AIN board, I'm so tired of verifying it, I guess I will do it again and again, I take a short break an get back on it !defred, random data flow on midi ox were used to make Matrix Sfx :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 AC / DC it just DOn't RocK !!!!It is the very same problem so it might come from the AIN board, I'm so tired of verifying it, I guess I will do it again and again, I take a short break an get back on it !defred, random data flow on midi ox were used to make Matrix Sfx :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 Fu....in' metal box !My problem is still here : a flow of midi events coming from the box. So still in the grounding problem idea, I try to connect only 4 faders (which obviously have no contact with the case), and grounded what I needed to, guess ? No random stuff and the four faders working allright. Ok.So do the fact that my potis are metal cased AND in direct contact with my metal box can be the bug ?And if it is how do I isolate these potis, knowing that they're are metallic from the front screw to the back cover of it (contact can be done with the chassis screw, the axis passing thru the box thickness, and behind where the little case is directly in contact with it) ?Metal : never again ! >:(thanks for confirmation, hints, or more expert explainations.defred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 Fu....in' metal box !My problem is still here : a flow of midi events coming from the box. So still in the grounding problem idea, I try to connect only 4 faders (which obviously have no contact with the case), and grounded what I needed to, guess ? No random stuff and the four faders working allright. Ok.So do the fact that my potis are metal cased AND in direct contact with my metal box can be the bug ?And if it is how do I isolate these potis, knowing that they're are metallic from the front screw to the back cover of it (contact can be done with the chassis screw, the axis passing thru the box thickness, and behind where the little case is directly in contact with it) ?Metal : never again ! >:(thanks for confirmation, hints, or more expert explainations.defred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven_C Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 If you had looked for previous threads before starting this new one, you would have seen my misadventures with very similar problems.I had to isolate the pots from the metal front panel, and that really cut down the jitter. This was against Thorsten's advice, but I tried it out of desperation, and it worked for me. I have mentioned all the other precautions I took, many times on this forum, and I'm sick of re-typing it everytime, so sorry, but you'll have to find it yourself. (forum search)Be patient, go have a break, do something else for a while, put it out of your mind. When you come back to it, I'm sure it will be easier for you!one thing that just occured to me, but I've never tried out, is putting a ground sheild around the PIC, as it seems to make a fair bit of RF. (my senheisser microphone picks it up, when closer than one foot from the midibox!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven_C Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 If you had looked for previous threads before starting this new one, you would have seen my misadventures with very similar problems.I had to isolate the pots from the metal front panel, and that really cut down the jitter. This was against Thorsten's advice, but I tried it out of desperation, and it worked for me. I have mentioned all the other precautions I took, many times on this forum, and I'm sick of re-typing it everytime, so sorry, but you'll have to find it yourself. (forum search)Be patient, go have a break, do something else for a while, put it out of your mind. When you come back to it, I'm sure it will be easier for you!one thing that just occured to me, but I've never tried out, is putting a ground sheild around the PIC, as it seems to make a fair bit of RF. (my senheisser microphone picks it up, when closer than one foot from the midibox!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 okay thanks for the hints, I'll browse the forum once again, I'll try isolate the pots, anyway thanks all, I'm currently taking a break !!!cheers !defred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 okay thanks for the hints, I'll browse the forum once again, I'll try isolate the pots, anyway thanks all, I'm currently taking a break !!!cheers !defred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 Okay, now I'm desperate !All day I patiently isolate all pots, now the metal enclosure of the pots are no longer in contact with the front plate, rather a boring activity. That didn't pay. Always the same, controllers events appears randomly.So I again tried to bypass the AIN and connect directly pots on the core, erratic stuff again except when I connect the "plastic" faders that works great with no odd events coming out. Even when tapping/shaking the box nothing weird.So now I think the problem comes from the pots I have, even if they look good, I think they're are not.Could it be possible my troubles comes from non-adapted potis ? Sound strange... but tests are here, the faders which are basicaly the same than potis works great ???So I've check the links on reichelt to the pots recommended by master TK, and they do look different with plastic axis and body, but since I isolated mine the difference must be elsewhere...I don't get it, anyone experienced buying 30 pots that didn't work with the mbox projects ? :-/Again much thanks for your help past or future !Smash : sorry I didn't saw your question, the boards where bought at mike's pcb looks like it has a ground plane.Steven : I've checked your "same trouble topic" on the forum, learned great stuff, but the isolate solution do not work for me.defred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 Okay, now I'm desperate !All day I patiently isolate all pots, now the metal enclosure of the pots are no longer in contact with the front plate, rather a boring activity. That didn't pay. Always the same, controllers events appears randomly.So I again tried to bypass the AIN and connect directly pots on the core, erratic stuff again except when I connect the "plastic" faders that works great with no odd events coming out. Even when tapping/shaking the box nothing weird.So now I think the problem comes from the pots I have, even if they look good, I think they're are not.Could it be possible my troubles comes from non-adapted potis ? Sound strange... but tests are here, the faders which are basicaly the same than potis works great ???So I've check the links on reichelt to the pots recommended by master TK, and they do look different with plastic axis and body, but since I isolated mine the difference must be elsewhere...I don't get it, anyone experienced buying 30 pots that didn't work with the mbox projects ? :-/Again much thanks for your help past or future !Smash : sorry I didn't saw your question, the boards where bought at mike's pcb looks like it has a ground plane.Steven : I've checked your "same trouble topic" on the forum, learned great stuff, but the isolate solution do not work for me.defred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashtv Posted January 13, 2004 Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 I have seen pots that were so bad that they were not useable in other equipment I have worked on. A great example is a pot in some of the open-frame monitors I used to service, if you put anything but a bournes or piher in place of the factory pot the picture would never sync because the resistance would jump around too much!At least you know the source of the problem, and I'm sorry I led you in the wrong direction trying to cure it. :)Have fun!Smash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashtv Posted January 13, 2004 Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 I have seen pots that were so bad that they were not useable in other equipment I have worked on. A great example is a pot in some of the open-frame monitors I used to service, if you put anything but a bournes or piher in place of the factory pot the picture would never sync because the resistance would jump around too much!At least you know the source of the problem, and I'm sorry I led you in the wrong direction trying to cure it. :)Have fun!Smash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted January 13, 2004 Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 What is the maximum resistance value of the pot? Hopefully 10k - or higher?Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted January 13, 2004 Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 What is the maximum resistance value of the pot? Hopefully 10k - or higher?Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 If I did the test correctly (that is : one pin of the multimeter on either left or right pin of the pot, and the other on the central pin) yes the max value I read on pot is 10Kohm. As I look at it I can see no infos on it except a "B10K", joinning a picture maybe inspiring !Thought maybe my electronic dealer mistakes himself and gave me logarythmic pots, could it act weird like this ? I really don't have a clue here, just thinking of buing 4 radiohm pots you recommend to test them and see (but don't know where to buy them now)...By the way does Reichelt takes order for foreign countries (as opposite to their site which is really german, really hard to understand what I click on there  ;)) ? Because they really have the lowest price on potis and I'm out of my budget now !thanks for support !defred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defred Posted January 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 If I did the test correctly (that is : one pin of the multimeter on either left or right pin of the pot, and the other on the central pin) yes the max value I read on pot is 10Kohm. As I look at it I can see no infos on it except a "B10K", joinning a picture maybe inspiring !Thought maybe my electronic dealer mistakes himself and gave me logarythmic pots, could it act weird like this ? I really don't have a clue here, just thinking of buing 4 radiohm pots you recommend to test them and see (but don't know where to buy them now)...By the way does Reichelt takes order for foreign countries (as opposite to their site which is really german, really hard to understand what I click on there  ;)) ? Because they really have the lowest price on potis and I'm out of my budget now !thanks for support !defred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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