ramonster Posted October 24, 2005 Report Share Posted October 24, 2005 Anyone got experience 'printing' text and dials on the frontplate?I want to get the dials around my knobs on the frontplate like this:I know i can laser them in the frontplate, but are there other ways to do it?Greetings,Ramonster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kokoon Posted October 24, 2005 Report Share Posted October 24, 2005 print on the A4 transparent sticker foil and stick it on.then you can add another transparent layer to protect it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramonster Posted October 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2005 Great, i didn't know there was transparent sticker foil.where can i buy this stuff?Ramonster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jidis Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Great, i didn't know there was transparent sticker foil.Me neither! Ramonster, I went looking for it and just found some here,-http://www.jejeprodukt.nl/docs-uk/jejeproducten/main.phpbut then I realized that it would put the clear paper on the panel along with my text. I'd have to see what it came out looking like first. There's always the "toner transfer" method. I've gotten quite good with that on PCB and metal, but my procedure usually requires one or two little spots or lines to be redrawn with a marker. I don't like the sound of that for a front panel.             Good Luck!-GeorgePS- That's still the best DIY technique I've been able to find for what I want to do, so I'm trying to figure out if maybe I can do my labels in modular sections. That way, I could iron-on a section at a time, and wipe each one off and try again if I hadn't gotten a perfect transfer. It's just going to be a hassle trying to protect the finished sections while I move to the next.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jidis Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 ----BTW->How many graduation "tick marks" usually go around a knob and where are the start/end points for most pots?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramonster Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Me neither! Ramonster, I went looking for it and just found some here,-http://www.jejeprodukt.nl/docs-uk/jejeproducten/main.phpbut then I realized that it would put the clear paper on the panel along with my text. I'd have to see what it came out looking like first. There's always the "toner transfer" method. I've gotten quite good with that on PCB and metal, but my procedure usually requires one or two little spots or lines to be redrawn with a marker. I don't like the sound of that for a front panel.             Good Luck!-GeorgePS- That's still the best DIY technique I've been able to find for what I want to do, so I'm trying to figure out if maybe I can do my labels in modular sections. That way, I could iron-on a section at a time, and wipe each one off and try again if I hadn't gotten a perfect transfer. It's just going to be a hassle trying to protect the finished sections while I move to the next.  Can i use this 'toner transfer' method on my stainless-steel casing? and how does it work?I'd really like to know, please tell me...Greetings,Ramonster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jidis Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Hey again,I "tested" it on a few different materials, but PCB is the only thing I've done a lot of. It seemed anything smooth and flat was capable of taking the transfer, so I would say yes. It usually takes me a couple of messed up attempts to arrive at the ideal amount of heat/pressure/time, even with the PCB's, if I haven't done one in a while.I've put stuff on a piece of dull gray steel, an aluminum sheet and even lexan/plexiglas (which melted after a while). I'd guess each substrate is going to have a slightly different technique depending on thickness and how they absorb heat. Most stuff can easily be wiped clean when you screw up :) IIRC, the aluminum took the longest time. I've been meaning to try heating from both sides to keep the metal hot, but haven't done it yet. Here's the page that turned me onto it, if you haven't already seen it-http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htmGeorgePS- I think you'd want to coat it with something afterward to protect it, but test it out and go light at first to keep from blurring the toner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rambinator Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 Hi!My frontplate will be made from "Hartschaumplatte" (extendet PVC) and I am also experimenting with different techniques to get the artwork onto it (I am planning to have some sort of camouflage/millitary-equipment design on my MBLC). I don't want the panel to look like something have been glued to it, espiacially not a glossy sticker foil. Last weekend I tried a special transfer-paper which is intended for ceramics, glass and similar. Two sheets cost 9€ here in germany and this thing is absolute crap. It doesn't stick to pvc and it tears appart when soaked with water. I am now planning to use lasertran transfer-paper and I have allready ordered a package from their UK-shop. Maybe that would be an alternative for you too.cheersrambinator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kokoon Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 lasertran is probably the best option but it's not the easiest one. that's why i suggested the self-adhesive transparent foil. you print it, you stick it, you stick another one on top (protection) but yeah, it's probably glossy as hell. i'd hate that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramonster Posted October 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 I came across this one here:Safmat Inkjet Film made by Letrasetit's 30micron thin and is not glossy and sticks on 1 side.But it costs about 26 euros for 10 A4 sheetsAnyone got any experience with these?Ramon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moebius Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 Hi.Steve Thomas made this comparison between different transfer methods, you'll find letraset and lazertran there:http://monopole.ph.qmw.ac.uk/~thomas/synthdiy/frontpanel.htmBig thumbs up for this :D Lazertran seems to be the best one to use. (by the way.. those last pics are MBSeq and Oakleys TB3030 integrated in to one box)I tried laser printer transparency film transfer on spray color painted aluminium surface - it looks like it's doable, but I have to search for the optimum technique. (once again ;)) One thing I noticed, was that the surface should be as flat as possible, so you should use fine sandingpaper before trying the transfer.One of the things I wonder, is if the toner will survive the laquer coating that is needed to protect it.Bye, Moebius Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jidis Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 One thing I noticed, was that the surface should be as flat as possible, so you should use fine sandingpaper before trying the transfer. One of the things I wonder, is if the toner will survive the laquer coating that is needed to protect it.Hi Moebius,That was one of the tests I was doing with the aluminum. I had some sections done with various grits of fine paper. I've wondered if "too fine" of a paper might make it harder for the toner to stick during the transfer. I think Gootee mentions something about the "micro-fine" scratches helping the PCB transfers. My tests were really sloppy and rushed, so I can't really say which worked the best. My heating procedure from one to the next was probably more different than the smoothness of the metal ;) They all did pretty well though.I've done lots of other stuff with clear lacquer top coats. It is some strong s**t. If you hit it with really carefully sprayed "mist" coats from a decent distance and let them dry in between, you'll usually be safe. After the first coat or two dries, it doesn't seem to have that risk of eating and blurring everything up. It will fuse into the top layer of what you spray it on if it's weak enough. There may actually be a less aggressive clear coating for what we want, but I'm not sure.Thanks for the front panel labelling link. I think I had it bookmarked, but hadn't seen it in a while. I wish he had done the exact same prints with different papers though. They all looked different (and great) anyway!BTW- Pulsar also makes that "toner reactive film" paper in green and white. That's for color and protection over raw toner. I've been meaning to get some, but I don't have any black stuff on the agenda right now.-George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramonster Posted October 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 I've found this transparant film:http://www.papierundfolien.de/flash/index.html (InkDeco)You can order it at www.conrad.nl. It's 10 Euro's for 5 sheets.I think it will work for my midibox.Greetings,Ramonster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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